TheLoyale

Was is a 4EAT or a 5-spd? Cause only the Autos have an EGR.

Finally took care of my engine light, had to replace the EGR solenoid. No more light! Got a new Genuine part from Carquest for $50.

+1 to that.

Ok, well, I took it off cleaned up some of the carbon build up it had (Not much) put it back on and replaced all the vac lines going to that and the ones on top of the intake (close to the TB) That was not the issue since it started acting up again just a mile down the road. SO, when I got home, it was still running like complete crap, I tapped the top of the MAF with my finger and that would make it run worse (If you tapped it harder it would stall) I am thinking this is a bad Mass Air Flow Sensor? Am I'm right?

I replaced the FRP with another from the junkyard out of a Impreza. I also replaced most of the old Vac lines with new. Nice and snug Vs. sloppy (Like the town whore) Not sure if its fixed or not. Question, can a Sticking EGR cause this type of issue? I noticed that the EGR seems to get stuck during revving, so I help it along with my finger and then it starts working like normal.

New Genuine EGR Solenoid for the EA82, Light is now gone! Now if only the Legacy was this easy to fix

So after inspecting the plugs, turns out they have some white build up on the electrode (Which is caused from running lean) The smell of the exhaust is not full of fuel, but more of a carbon smell. So I don't know? I put new NGK plugs in as I have to start somewhere, going to see what results I get now. While running, I noticed the EGR didn't more with revving, so I push it up by hand and now it moves, can this be a cause? I've heard the EGR won't affect much other then start ups (If I'm correct?)

I have a scanner and have tried pulling codes, passes everytime.

I do not follow the markings on the belt or tooth count. I just make sure everythings lined up and stick the belt on. I have never done a timing belt on a EJ25D and am not sure about the tensioner design. Don't rely on markings except those on the sprockets and block.

You really need to see "This" in person again soon.

Dude! I know Fox hasn't posted in this thread yet, but I assure you, he is lurking (Just wait) As for the $2,500 jump, why not? Thats what Fox got for that red Brighton, so if he thinks that car was worth that, then for sure this car is. I'm not even sure if any of these sensors have failed, I am going with pretty much everything that controls Air/Fuel mixtures and allowance of fuel. There is no doubt this car is being fed way to much fuel, the plugs are black, the MPG has probably gone down to 10mpg as of today as Jon and I both know. The system keeps flooding its self out.

This has to be an issue with the fuel system and the corresponding sensors. Looking at MAP, MAF, FPR, Injector. I took an Ohm reading on all 4 Injectors and came back with 12.5 Ohms on all except driver side front which varied from 12.0-Ohms to 12.3-Ohms (Is this ok?) Specs for 1995-1998 Injectors is 5-20 Ohms. So I guess my next step is to get these featured parts from the junkyard and see if anything changes. Is a MAF from a First generation EJ22 the same as a '95 EJ22? They are both 5 pin connectors, is there any difference in resistances? Also, will a FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) and MAP (Manifold Atmospheric Pressure sensor) from a 1997 EJ25 be the same as a EJ22?

Yeah thanks, this POS is to the point wheres its almost un-drivable trying to keep it running. Went to my bud Jon's house today with it, we went to the junkyard and it stalled, and coming back tonight it ran the worst its ever been, stalled twice and I blew thru stop signs trying to keep it running. I am looking at getting, MAF, MAP, and an FPR, between Jon, Lynn (His dad) Me and my dad, we are thinking its one of these things. I also need to get new plugs now since they are fouled to the hilt. Fox, you want a Trashwagon so bad? Come buy this one for $2,500 as is with everything. If you thought the Brighton was worth $2,500 then you know this one is...

We'll just say that, I can drive to Muskego, by the time I get there, I'm down to 3/4-tank. Whereas the Dodge barely moves off "Full" And you know from my house to Muskego is a straight shot down Racine Ave. So WTF. Over-fueled (No sh*t)

Sure thing, no problem. Wish you the best of luck!

Some helpful diagrams of the EA82: 3-spd Auto

I have also done something interesting with the mirrors which I have yet to post.

Besides noise, is there any slipping? And does it shift smooth? Noise could just be caused from dirt, changing the fluid and maybe running a flush could clear it out and may quiet it down (As the longer it moans, the more damage there could be) a 4EAT with 300,000 is pretty good, these transmissions are pretty hard to kill. Check and smell the fluid sometime, if its dark red or has metallic shavings in it or smells burnt, then I would start looking for a new tranny. -Tom

I'm sure yours will turn out just as nice, it took me 6 years to get mine to the state it is at now. Do you have a thread? PM me some pics if you want -Tom

I am wondering if the fuel pressure regulator is causing this issue? Its allowing way to much fuel in at times causing the richness. My plugs are black with carbon build up (Only a year old) Other ideas on what is causing so much un-burned fuel?

Believe me, having a 3/4ton truck with an 8ft bed always comes in handy. Just took a tree down and to Jon's last weekend. I love the fact that a Dodge 5.9 360 gets way better gas milage then a 2.2 Flat-4.

Wow, its amazing to not have oil all over the bottom of my block for the first time in 6 years! Thank you Fel-pro seals! Only thing that still leaks is the pan its self, but I ain't removing that, unless its really called for. Cork gaskets are crap Period.

Thats why you just buy a Dodge 2500 and a car trailer, no need for a flat-bed. Saves time and money.

What are you talking about? Didn't anyone tell you that Spatz were the new Tundra hiker boot...?

Its hard to tell, It needs to push down and back a little as there is no gap between the hood and grill.