TheLoyale

Turns out the caliper wasn't stuck, the pads were stuck in their retainer clips, Looks like rust might have built up on the brake pad and made them way to tight and get stuck. I just used a grinder to clean them up so they are free'd up. Drives fairly good now, there is a little shake, but these pads have some cracking and some nicks (Not Stevie Nicks either!) I don't think the rotors are wraped. Kara, glad I could help you! And was great fun hanging out with you guys.

Yep, if your car has the Digi dash, you should have the plug where the Analog Pressure sending unit would be for the Analog gauge cluster, as the digi dash uses an "Oil Light"

There should be a bracket which is what your brake pads push on to, then your caliper goes over that, the glide pins screw to the bracket which holds the pads, There will be two 14mm or 17mm bolts which hold that Bracket to the wheel hub, but you do not need to remove that to change pads. You will on the other hand, have to remove that bracket to get the rotor off, even after you remove the caliper, that bracket stays bolted to the wheel hub. Here is a photo to help you. The red marks are the bracket which stays with the hub. You can also see the two Bolt holes for the bracket.

If you have done Brakes on a GM, doing brakes on a newer Subaru are pretty much the same. When you get into Subarus from the 1980s, thats where they change. Basiclly, once you undo the bottom 14mm bolt which holds the Caliper to the bracket, swing up the caliper (Might need a screwdriver or tap it) once it swings up, you should be able to slide it off the guide pin at the top and then have the caliper hang by the brake line. Get a big C-Clamp to compress the piston back into its bore until its seated all the way down. Also apply a little grease on the retainers for the brake pads as the pads need to slide too.

You need MilesFox to poke your car with a stick and then poof! it will be fixed.

Thats a bugger, I almost got one stuck in my EJ axle last summer (Didn't have the holes lined up) and I broke the end of it off with I was able to tap out. Hope all goes well with this!

If your disty is turning, then your belts are, as the passenger side belt controls the Disty.

Since I've been spraying my body work, I had gotten fumes on most of the body just from the wind carring it around. I gave it some Clay Bar action, and wow, it does really work, it take it right off and makes it smooth as glass.

You know, now that I think about it, didn't someone drop an EZ engine into an old gen Subaru? I remember seeing a old Subaru on here with a Timing chain and alloy timing covers.

For conversation sake, Does anyone know if an 3.0 H6 EZ30D from a 2002 Outback would bolt up to a EJ22 4EAT trans? and how much different is the ECU? There would be 2 extra injectors, what else? I think it would be awesome to swap in an EZ30 with the Auto trans into an EA82 chassis. That much power and torque in a 2300lbs car

At least with these Newer gen Subarus, you can just press the piston back into its bore, where as the Older Subarus (Pre-Legacy) You had to push and turn at the same time to seat it back in its bore. The Slide pins can be a PITA to unscrew, but you shouldn't have to take then out unless you need to replace them due to damage from salt. Sil-glide is good stuff, I use Bearing grease and works fine too.

Most cases, put some PB-Blaster or WD on the bolt, use a closed end wrench and tap it with a hammer to break it loose. Shouldn't be too stuck, But if the brake had been touching a while and causing excessive heat, it might be a little harder, but not much. Go for it!

Warp rotors would only come from excessive heat during hard braking, an Unbalanced wheel isn't gonna warp a rotor, it will give you a shake/wobble feeling. As Fox said, Tierod ends could cause a shake too along with a CV Axle.

If you text me that photo again, I will post it for you.

Keep in mind Wheel Offset, Subarus use about 35mm Negitive so the wheels aren't sticking out like a lowrider.

LMAO, its a pretty cool sedan, sadly I can't say who owns it. Those bumpers have to be heavy.

There is an exposed connector right next to the fuel pump which could corode, give that a look see.

If you mean they only go back to "1998" Those Doors will still work as its still the same chassis/body design. I, for cost savings, would try to cut out most of the door and door jam and add a support bar inside the door, basicilly keeping only the outter skin. As for their Carbon Doors you are looking at $2,200 per door - $4,400 on two doors, your half way to a Turbo RS with spending that much. Plus seeing as they only offer doors for the Coupe, those doors are longer and will not work on a 4-Door Impreza. The Weight of the doors is the least of your worries at this moment. Drop a EJ22T Closed-Deck with Delta Cams in there and you'd still be spending less then $4k.

The problem with trying to remove the harness from the tail light wires is all the wires will be cut in half, as someone used those blue connctors which make one wire into two, so when you crimp them, it slices the wire and is a PITA to remove without messing everything up.

When did this turn into the "Spotted" thread?

Did you ever find out if your Disty is turning??

Rust proofing, Restoring, Rock Guarding EA82.

Yep, that is how my Dad wires in trailor lighting, Solder is the best way to make sure nothing gets in.

I have tried Polishing and Rubbing compounds, it cleans it up some, but its not shiney like the rest. I have also waxed it with no results. Figure if I sand it with 2000 grit and then re-clear it, that should work.

I have just used up one can so far, and thats painting lower part of door, Rocker, rear panel and the engine bay. I have found that this Clear is CRAP, I am going to buy NASON clear, which I can get at my other Autobody place, it works so much better as I have used it in the past. I think I will have to sand down the door and rear panel and re-shoot them with the new clear. F*cking bullSh*t.