TheLoyale

Their good motors, but timing belts are a headache LOL!

zzz

'97 Outback, please tell me its a SOHC!

Ah ok. OH thats right! I totally forgot the car is umm, F**ked. Damn that sucks now that I think of it again.

Backlash is off huh, so what does that mean? Never had to deal with any of that or look it up. But yeah, that does sound like the noise

The '85-'86 GLs were better, the blinker was more flush with the bumper vs the new bumper where they are sunken in. You could rig the orange part of your corner light to flash with the blinkers.

What a wongleflute. Haha! So, I am wondering if that clunk is either the carrier bearing or the rear diff bushing. If the rear diff bushing wears out it will clunk just like that during the same type of movents.

I had some Implaza side lights that I was gonna hook up instead, but didn't want to cut a square hole into the fenders, as they press into it.

LAMO! I will have to check that out.

Dave, I have noticed the longer started on an Outback at the Junkyard. Does anyone know if its a larger Amp? Jon, sure thing. I'll open the hood after driving it and see what it does, maybe I was just thinging it turns on. Again, just keep in mind, my Radiator is original and is plastic and is a single row, works just fine. I think if you just get a new one you'd be safe. The EJ22s don't really get all that hot. PS: Make sure you burped all the air outta the system.

Yep, any Radiator from '95 to '99 will work, I think only the 2.5s had the metal sides (Like GD said) just make sure the one you are looking at is for an AT so it has the cooling line dookers. Yeah the individual support brackets can be found on that White Outback at Al's auto. Or if you can find a Forester.

LED side markers!

Well I said F******* it, and gone and did the axle and tierod ends today, as I probably won't have time this weekend. Got it all done in 45min which I think was pretty good. Its so nice to have a solid axle in there that doesn't knock when turning. And the Pop I used to have is gone, must have been the inner rod end as it had some in/out play. Everything is A-OK now. I''m waiting for the other EMPI axle and both rod ends/boot so I can do that on the driver side. Pictures. You will also notice that the EMPI axle has a larger shaft vs the Genuine axle. This thing was WORN out big time!

Yes, timing kit and waterpump where put in by me. And I think both fans come on, mine do IIRC? Jon, Didn't I tell you about the Genuine Thermo which you so gladly ignored! You will learn. This isn't a 318 where you can slap any parthouse part in there, some things should be genuine. The temp gauge should be smack dab in the center when at Running temp.

Jon, that hose does not connect to the air box, it connects to and outlet on the mina air intake duct. And no, I did not connect any of that cause we were done for the day. I told you on the phone to check that big dooker of a hose. And yes, with that hose not connected, you have to keep giving it gas to run. But it'll run like a server vac leak, and you said it ran ok? This is why when I'm working on something, I prefer to do it all my self when it comes to putting it back together as I have taken both my Subarus apart enough.

You could also pop off the top of the air box and spray the MAF prong with the Electrical cleaner spary. It may give smoother idle.

This coming weekend, I am thinking of swapping axles. I have one EMPI axle, and am waiting for the other EMPI axle from Rockauto.com. It was on sale - $50. I also have new tierod ends and boot for the passenger side, I have yet to buy them for the other side. But once all this is done, the front end will be problem free. I already have two new Moog BJs in there as of last year. I am also gonna need to re-boot my rear axles before the boots rip.

Change that gear oil in both, front and rear diffs. 85w-90 Gear oil. Also buy a new PCV valve or clean the one you have. Also clean all the PCV hoses, I will suspect them being gunked up from old oil over the years.

Was thinking, I had something like this with my Legacy when I first got it. I replaced the Cam and Crank sensor and it was good. I wonder if this is something along those lines as these sensors tend to fail a lot. You are looking at $100 total for both from Carquest FYI. But your idea on the battery not providing enough currant to maintain the running systems does make sense.

Well, you could dump some Seafoam down the IAC, maybe its a little dirty. My EA82 will drop down in idle pretty quick if you jab the throttle.

If the motor is cold, the IAC is gonna hold the engine at a higher RPM until the engine gets heat, thats what its meant to do. You can kick it down as you did by taping the pedel, but it'll climb back up a little bit. 1000rpm is normal for the EA82 if you've only been letting it idle.