TheLoyale

This is known as the "Poor Mans Lift" it will make the car sit higher, and I think the springs are of the same rate but will be stiffer because they are longer springs (The strut won't compress as much)

You can do Front Accord springs in the rear and Rear Tempo springs in the front.

The paint match is spot on. And the rest of the car doesn't need a repaint. I would prefer to still have the factory single stage paint on 80% of the car.

"I don't like the way you choke, so I downstroke... Yeah, yeah ehh. I downstroke. Don't want to blast it in ya face, nor do I do all over da place, ehh ehh yeah, so I downstroke, yeah b*tch, I downstroke. I beat my meat in the mist of the heat cause MPDs got nothing on me, U-hauls haulin' that car with ease, pullin' my Subaru behind the GMC passin' the DMV cause its easy, yeah, SO EEEZ.... Flogging some molly outta my carburetor, ain't got time now B*tch, see ya lata..!"

Finished the rotted section. Next I need to fix this,

The first year of the Phase-II EJ22 was Late 1996. Early 1996 was still Phase-I.

The bees knees indeed! Looks awesome. Gotta love those Jerry cans on the back

Yep, thats the main reason. I think a First gen EJ22T puts out enough power and with a couple bolts ons and larger injectors, you have a pretty fast car. Who needs a 300hp STi? Mike, glad to hear the timing belt is fairly new.

Alright, thanks Ben. I should be getting on from WA as soon as dude gets back to me on shipping.

Just got my fenders and hood back from Hillside autobody. They look pretty good, don't think its an $800 job though, they need to do some wet sanding as there was dust particals which fell onto the paint. They didn't do the wet sanding cause they didn't have time, as they were just fresh out of the oven. Here are some teaser pictures, I will get better pictures outside tomorrow. Coated the backs on the fenders with this: I need to get some Gloss POR-15 to do the underside of the hood.

Perfect write-up and and very clear.

That is another good point, Mike. I would check your Timing belt if i were you. Since the car has 160k and I don't know when the last time the belt was changed, I would at least pull the covers off and check it for cracks. Since you have a 1997 Legacy EJ22, that will be the Phase-II motor, and that will also be the Interference motor. So if the timing belt breaks, you run the risk of bending valves. The last year of the Phase-I EJ22 "Non-Interference" engine (Which I have in my '95 Legacy) would be early 1996, in late '96 Subaru changed to the Interference style to get more power out of the engine. And all Subarus made to this day are Interference engines, thankfuly Subaru is making all the new motors with Timing Chain Vs. a Belt. If you ever want to do a timing belt and pulleys on the car, just come on by, or come on over to the Shop space in Milwaukee. Fox has also said that right, we are in it for the enthusiasm and people who appreciate it.

Yep, from what I have heard from everyone, Sommers is the dealer to go to other then Don Miller out in Madison. Wild Subaru are cheats and liers and same applies with Subaru City. Back when Don Jacobs was open, they were pretty nice folk. Mike, no problem. I was out in the garage anyway, like I said to you earlier, run some Seafoam, Marvle Mystory Oil or even Automatic Trans fluid in the oil for 200 or so miles and then change it and use a Genuine or WIX (Or Carquest) filter, Fram are garbage with their paper insides which breakdown into pieces and enter the oil system causing clogging of small oil passages. When you do run Seafoam or MMO in your oil, leave the oil at the full mark and add 1/4 or the bottle, just so its somewhat over the full mark (That will not hurt your seals) But when running ATF in your oil, you will want to drop down the oil level a little bit and re-fill with the ATF. And don't worry, non of this stuff with harm the engine, I have done it to my Subarus and so have many others on here. I hope some of this info will help you out, and keep in touch, if you need anything, just ask. And I am sorry I didn't take you on a tour of my Red Lifted wagon, didn't know how much time you had etc. Cheers!

Mike, after listening to your car, my opinion is it sounds more like a Lifter thats dirty or worn. Its a higher pitched metacllic noise Vs. a Rod knock which is a bit deeper in tone. But let us know what Sommers says about it, they probably won't be able to give you any advice unless they tear into it and charge you. Some of these youtube videos are of people filming a lifter tick, and thinking its a knock and falsely lable them as such. -Tom

Oh yeah, now I remember this car, it has the shark fin exhaust tip Cheers!

Ya know, it doesn't really look all that bad. What else have planed on the agenda?

Yeah when I saw that, I first thought "Looks like an AE86"

I like the looks of that, Did you also paint the bumper gloss black with the trim line? Looks more part of the body then just a cover now. Nice job.

emailed.

Its straight forward, you will need the M/T crossmember (Automatic crossmember is different,) Pedel box assy, Interior center console from an M/T car and then wire in the reverse light switch (Optional) Cheers, -Tom

So since we are on the topic of EA82s. This is the Restoration thread of Safariwagon. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121283

An update, I rebuilt that corner with metal and welded it in, I couldn't be a consistant weld, so its more of a stich weld and thats why I sealed it up with fiberglass and resin. Next will be to add a little more fiberglass and then POR-15 it and it should be ready to rock and roll. Then onto tackle other goodness. On another note, I am getting my fenders and hood back tomorrow. The price jumped to $800 though

+100. You win a chunk of rust for the correct answer!

Well I'm hoping to get out of this car and into an '88 GL Runabout.

There is nothing for aftermarket for the EA82s. You could make your own exhaust. Leave the header and cat stock (Or hollow out the cat if you don't have emissions) Right after the cat, do a resonator then go to 2" or 2-1/4" all the way back and don't run a muffler (Or a turbo muffler if you really want to) that might give you a little more power. You do not want to make the header piping any larger then 1-7/8" other wise you will loose bottom end power and the Scavenging effect. If you want to do a free and quick exhaust mod, just cut the muffler off and leave it as is, it will indeed give you more power, it has on mine with a 3AT. The intake system is about as good as your gonna do with it. At least you have the 5spd which is gonna be quicker then the 3AT right out of the box