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TheLoyale

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Everything posted by TheLoyale

  1. When I work on cars, I never use an impact (Unless I'm swapping springs with a compressor) I would use a breaker bar with a pipe on it. Then you can use a 1/2" drive ratchet to quick'en things up. If the bolt won't turn, try breaking the nut loose. The top bolt is the Camber bolt, so its not going to turn easy. Put the bottom bolt back in, then break lose the other bolt/nut, tap it out and then removed the bottom bolt. Cheers!
  2. If the bolt won't turn, try breaking the nut loose. The top bolt is the Camber bolt, so its not going to turn easy. Put the bottom bolts back in, then break lose the other bolt/nut, tap it out and then removed the bottom bolt. Cheers!
  3. There is now snow on the ground!
  4. Its more rust then I'd like to see on an old Subaru, but it is easily fixable. That does really have some ground clearance eh!
  5. AH yes, that could be. 230 or something.
  6. Whats that on the other side of the truck? MG or VW?
  7. Yeah my old struts were so gone, You can feel the wheel shaking and bouncing after hitting a bump or train tracks. Was kinda fun to just beat it with the bad struts. Jumping it and everything LOL!
  8. Step-side FTW! I love that truck. Waiting to see some more.
  9. Also, re-torquing the head bolts. Start with 22 ft.lbs Then to 43 ft.lbs Then finally 47 ft.lbs Never more then 50 ft.lbs There is also a "Tightening Sequence" you should look up so you don't end up pinching the new gasket. -Tom
  10. Even with 223k there shouldn't be much wrong with the heads/rocker or lifters. While the heads are off you can check the Lifter (Make sure the oil passage hole is open) if you don't have any ticking then I wouldn't worry. Since the engine will be in the car, it is handy to have some grease to keep the rocker arms in there while putting the head back on, do not mix match the rockers with other Lifters, as each rocker arm is already worn to each lifter. Also, when you take the head bolts out, clean the threads of them well for easy reassembly. Also dipping the bolts in some oil before screwing them in helps. Mainly just check for sludge or "milk shake" since you might have had coolant entering the oil system. You might also want to buy new Valve cover seals with the groments for the cover bolts. Cheers, -Tom
  11. Don't feel bad, it was 6 degrees today while I was changing a thermo in my EA82 (Now thats cold, and it was snowing!)
  12. Replaced Genuine thermostat and gasket. To damn cold to do this stuff out side. -0 W/C.
  13. Yeah, if your going to do subframe spacers and all that jazz, then you'd be better off swapping in a SJR Lift kit in its place! Why go factory, when you can go bigger!
  14. Something like this work for you? http://www.autobarn.net/pac52170.html?site=google_base Here is my old thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103414
  15. Looks fabulous! I love those wheels. -Tom
  16. Thank you so much! After 210,500 miles, 2 wrecks and critcal damage, Trashwagon10 pushes on, and I'm the one pushing it on.
  17. The Trashwagon10 video. Enjoy.
  18. Don't forget a cut down wiring harness that you would need if you were to EJ it. You are better doing the Headgaskets, and resealing a few things along with a new waterpump and Oil pump. The EA82 is a sound engine with fresh Headgaskets. -Tom
  19. The 3 that showed up were decent, I have meet up with two of them other times. But I do know what you are talking, some NASIOC guys are just douches. Talk about Turbos and deep dish wheels all day
  20. I'm trying to picture that, Anyone have a picture of it? Sounds cool! BOSS is also another AU brand adaptor, trying to find one is a little difficult, but is another option. -Tom
  21. Went to a NASIOC meet Sunday. Fox made it out to the meet as well. '93 GT wagon.
  22. Thats really clean! Congrats to you Tom!

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