Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

TheLoyale

Members
  • Posts

    7169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18

Everything posted by TheLoyale

  1. Thats true, With 210,000 is it worth dumping cams in it? How much slop is in the crack after all these miles? I suppose, I don't have any blow-by (From rings or valve seats) no ticking or knocking, so it might be worth it. I think I better put a new waterpump and timing kit on this thing first, running on stuff found in MilesFox's garage
  2. I yeah it could be done in the car, but I wonder how much of a PITA it would be to do it? Did ski have the engine in when he did it?
  3. Yeah I would like to do the torque cams, I think if I ever need to take the heads off this thing I will swap the cams (Since I'm in there) The '96 and up Outback would have the 2.5 EJ25. The '95 Outback was the only year they put the EJ22 in that trim level.
  4. I have not grounded pin 4 yet, been to cold out lol. plus I need a female connector/wire from another ECU. As for swapping, I would never swap a 2.2 for the 2.5. Is it worth to have the ECU re-tuned on a pretty much stock N/A engine?
  5. Yep, thats the typical issue with the covers. The sleave is only pressed in and has a rough mating surface. But with age thye break loose and the bolt gets stuck. Sometimes the bolt can be very hard to unscrew from the sleave (I tested one old one I had once) Had to use a vise and about 15lbs of force to break the bolt loose. You can always leave the rear half of the covers on (Like I did) it helps keep stuff out. I don't know to many folks that have had issues with stuff getting onto the belts (Rocks etc) If you really want to run th covers, you can zip-tie them on if you still have a few holes that aren't broken off. -Tom
  6. Check out Grip-tite wrenches and sockets, Sears carries them as well. I so want to buy a set of them!
  7. Yea I like that post too, One of the best bits on info in this thread and very easy to do!
  8. If you dripping oil its either coming from the Oil Pump seal and O-ring (Micky Mouse seal) or the cam seals/o-rings (Or both) this will cause lower oil pressure, or your sending unit on the front of the oil pump is getting old. If you going to do Timing belts then since you are in there, I would get a new waterpump and seal, New By-pass hose for the top of the waterpump, New oil pump and seal kit, Fel-pro Cam carrier seals, and new Timing tensioners (If yours sound like Skateboard wheels, it is time to replace them) Check out Rockauto for this stuff, or you can get a Timing kit off ebay for $120 IIRC. If you do all this, then you will have no worries with this engine for a long time. Also, leave the timing covers off, makes it way easier to re-tension the belts and check them. Plus next time you replace them, you don't have to pull the Crank pulley. If your oil pan gasket has some sepage, just torque the bolts a little and see if it helps. Cheers, -Tom:)
  9. I haven't had a problem with either of my Autos, 3AT has 116,567. 4EAT has 210,786.
  10. Oh totally, Put an 17mm wrench on the nut sidd, and loosen the bolt with the breaker bar. I wasn't sure what tool you were using.
  11. You should be able to just push it out, mash down the boot and tap it out. So your breaker bar was found... Ummm, In the Kitchen?
  12. This has nothing to do with the thread, but it is my thread, so I'll post in it what I'l like. Lol
  13. Haha, it took you 4 autos to make up your mind wether you wanted a 5spd! I think after the 2nd trans faild, I would question my driving habits with the auto Thats one nice SS, those wheels look good on there!
  14. Yes, I live by that. I have twisted the heads off hot bolts to many times. I hate when you just feel it give, your like OMFG! As for the camber bolts in the rear, I am pretty damn sure they were, I am trying to remember, but I think they did have a lump on one side. I do remember marking them for a reason. All this stuff looked factory too, I don't think anyone ever took this car to a shop or the dealer for servicing
  15. I hope to god your are joking LOL! Yeah, why not just rev it up to 5000rpm and drop it in drive Talk about "Boom!"
  16. Thanks, I just read it and wow thats a cool idea. Thank you again! I will have to give that a go. -Tom
  17. Yeah I know a 5spd is the way to go, Maybe some day eh.. Once this 4EAT takes a crap (If it ever will) Oh wait, maybe I have to drive my car like all these other dumb kids, making the trans work very hard to shift, I always make sure the tranny wants to engauge smoothly even at red-line shifts, I will back off the throttle just a fraction so it will glide in rather then struggle. I hear a lot of dumb kids drive past my house and just how they don't treat their car well. This kid that lives kiddie-corner from me has a '01 Mirrage sedan with a fart-can on it, he trys to make it sound like its stick, he'll punch it then back way off the gas then hit it hard again (For a delay sound) thats not the way you treat an auto, your making it work extra hard that way DUMB KIDS, OMG!
  18. No mine was stock, no one has ever touched the struts on this car. Maybe its an Outback thing?
  19. What do you mean the rear isn't cambered? Mine is, werid. Well, heat it up good spary some deep creep on it and give it hell
×
×
  • Create New...