TheLoyale

Oh ok, that explains it Lol. I'm gonna need to replace that V'ed tie-rod on mine soon.

There is only Lower Ball joints on any Subaru (Since theres no upper control arm aka A-arm) Did you replace the tierod ends or the Balljoints? There should be no reason your alinement would be off if you just replaced the Balljoints.

Next fall! I take it you are gonna take it to a shop? Just roll it on yo, it does look really nice if done right!

Those rear air deflectors were on most of the GL-10 wagons and some GL wagons. Their pretty easy to come by and do look good on them! What tyres do you have on there?

I totaly want to see this! Isn't it great having extra Subaru parts!

Gonna paint it up Trashwagon?

Those are gonna look great with some rubber on them! Whats the difference if you leave the centering ring on or not?

It has Disc in the front (Which is about 70% of the stopping power) the rear Drum still grab for stopping. but yes the E-brake is connected to the rear brakes on the EJ vehicles. EA vehicles had the e-brake on the front brakes.

You've got rear drum on that! That sucks. I've never seen a drum that rusted before, the ones on the Loyale aren't even that rusty! Did your car sit a lot sometime?

Desmond Jones knows all about the 24 Hours Of Lemons. He's attended a few times. Sounds fun as hell, its in Joliet right? you could pick up a Legacy here in WI for like $300 that might just need a clutch or a HG.

Does anyone have a picture of these tires on their rig? I'd like to see how much smaller these tires are compared to the Grabber AT2s.

Look cool!

Silver is pretty bright, but might look fine with ur wheels and body color.

OMG! same thing here.. Its construction all over Waukesha and Milwaukee.

I dunno, I repaint my hub and calipers with just cheep semi-gloss black from time to time and it doesn't flake or burn off. Starts to rust after a year of salt.

Link!! Linkaroo, click or ticket!

No, Rustolium "Hammered" gray, its a little brighter then gun metal and it has a cool effect, makes it look hammered.

I would paint ur calipers maybe hammered gray or something, looks tuff

Well we figured it out, Turns out one of the plugs for the Fuel injectors (MPFI) was all corroded and wasn't getting good contact (No.1 Cyl) so that is what was causing the miss-fire. As for the timing, yes I set it to the 3 lines (Middle line) I think there was a misunderstanding that post by Jon. Only issue with the car now is it bucks sometimes during take off, which could just be dirty air passages and a Dirty MAF. Jon, post up how it runs now after you've been driving it all day!

When you took the distributor out did you mark which way the rotor was turned? If not and just put it back you, the timing gear on it will be way off. We might have to pull the Dist tomorrow and then turn the engine to 0-TDC then find out where the timing gear needs to be and then put the dist back in. I think this is your problem. Even though we turned the top of the dist and it showed 20 BTDC with a timing light, if the timing gear on the rotor shaft it off I think that will cause a major issue, as timing won't be true. GD, do you have any input? -Tom

Yeah, I at least have enough room to do that. This is why I have to change my inner rod: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=949857&postcount=271

OH I've heard/seen of that then, I will give that a try when I do this. Thanks and cheers!

Alright! Thanks for all the answers! I have never done anything with inner rod ends before so I wasn't sure how they came out. I have heard of the string thing, doesn't that involve chalk string or something. Thanks again! -Tom

+1 to Silicon spray! It helps big time with rubber bits. I've spent many a time dicking around with stuff when all it needed was some spray to slide right on. Just to get this right, that tool slides over the entire inner end (With outer end removed) then you just break the torque and remove. Well if so, then I wouldn't need to drop the header. Only reason I was saying is due to I run an Unequal Length Header on mine, and its all in the way of the steering box if you had to access it from underneath.

Yep, I know about keeping track of the turns. but as you said it might still need to be adjusted with a laser anyhow to get it dead on. Oh, so the inner rod screws into the steering box? Ok I see how that tool would work.