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TheLoyale

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Everything posted by TheLoyale

  1. TheLoyale
    Its probably the Intake gaskets. I used Fel-pro when I did them. And I used Fel-pro on the Hardtop. Guess what, they failed on me. I'd say grab some genuine ones and slap them in there. I doubt its an HG.
  2. TheLoyale
    Talk to Earl (pooparu) last I know he could make repro decals.
  3. TheLoyale
    This video is always great, I posted it somewhere in here some time back. They kinda knock the car a little hard for what it is though, like they are expecting too much. Gotta love the orange gauge cluster..... :drool:
  4. TheLoyale
    Sill smokin like Cheech & Chong. Guess its a ring issue as you said Bennie.
  5. TheLoyale
    This is the post I followed. It is about Swapping Weber onto an EA82, but it gives a good idea on PCV routing with a Weber and non factory airbox. Post #9 Ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82´s
  6. TheLoyale
    Alright, I think I had figured the issue out. I think it was from how I had the PCV system routed. I changed it up as I found a thread by JesZek which explains the PCV system and the best way to route it with a Weber swap. I haven't noticed any more smoking (Yet) I will see how it goes and post up if that was the issue or not. Bantum, it was indeed coming from inside the exhaust and blowing out. I have no leaks (Other than some seepage from either the Oil pump or from the Pressure switch) not enough to run onto the exhaust. I also have a rear main which is leaking a little, but nothing unusual. Steven, Correct, Auto trans. Vac modulator was already changed out. It needed one anyway, now it actually kicks down without WOT.
  7. TheLoyale
    WTF! I spoke too soon. I still have thin light gray smoking during long Deceleration, WHY!!!? Here is what is going on: I have a grayish smoke coming from the tailpipe after a long deceleration from highway speeds (50+ at around 3k) or coasting down hill at higher speeds. SMOKING ONLY HAPPENS DURING THIS. Takes a little to clear up (If you were to stop at a light) It will push out some smoke taking off from said light, but clears up in a sec or two. SMOKING DOES NOT HAPPEN DURING: Cold/Hot Starts. Soft/Hard Acceleration from a stop or moving. City driving/stopping. Holding RPM/Speed for prolonged times. I don't notice anything during free revving (maybe a little carbon or unburnt fuel at times) I have changed: PCV valve. An aussie told me I do have the PCV system routed correctly (If not, please let me know) Just replaced Valve stem seals, HGs, Intake gaskets, AT Vacuum Modulator. Smoke doesn't look to have any blue (At least now since I've changed the Stem seals) Its just gray and thin :/ I have not done a compression test. But I have a hard time believing the rings are going from the symptoms and the fact the cylinder bores looked new when I had the heads off. Also the fact the smoke is gray and just has an odd smell. So anyone have an ideas?
  8. TheLoyale
    I've actually seen the bubbles in the display, I've never thought about that factor to be honest. Thanks for the advice! I've done a little research on Oil standards (Probably not as much as I should've) but that is why I choose Amsoil over any other (When I can) I usually go back to GTX and a Wix if I need to go with something else. I have also used Water-Wetter in a few applications, can't tell if anything is running a little cooler (Mainly cause I don't have any digital temp gauges) Though I have talked to a few "Drift" guys and it does seem to provide some relief in extremes.
  9. TheLoyale
    2 days after the engine reassembled and everything seems solid. No leaks that I can see, I checked the torque on the intake bolts and the few Head studs I can get to and they checked out. Been taking the car to work and will be for the rest of the week, planning on taking a drive this weekend just to get the car out and about with some non-town driving. Here are some pictures from the Clean up and assembly. Sprayed some penetrating oil in the cylinder bores before I stuffed rags in them (Since it was going to sit a few days without the heads on) The walls are in great shape, still have the original boring marks and no discoloration. Somewhat surprised considering how this car was neglected from past owners. Spring compressor from Eastwood tools. Pretty had design, it locks into steps for ease. New Stem seals (Got 4 extra I guess lol) Someone stole my Valve and spring! New seal. Cleaned out the majority of the sludge and carbon buildup. Also cleaned out all the buildup of glycol from the water passages and flush both the heads and block. Soaked the valves in Oven-degreaser and then took a wire wheel to them. There was a noticeable edge on all the valve seats and them seemed to seal good. Went with genuine Intake gaskets this time, as the the Fel-pro ones are what failed causing water to enter the combustion chamber. (Head gaskets were still good to be honest) But I installed new Fel-pro HGs that I had. Hopefully these won't fail. Genuine (Left) Fel-pro (Right) Genuine is made of some type of metallic compound. Fel-pro is basically pressed paper. Now I normally run NGK plugs in everything, but I figured I would give these Denso's a go. They were the same price of NGK Iridiums anyway. These run a gap of around .036, factory calls for .043 but I left them as these are pre-gapped and maybe that is what this plug calls for because of the odd tip. Plugs and 19 Stainless M6 bolts for the oil pan. All put back together and runs great! Looking forward to next year for when I build a proper exhaust for the car. Piecing the old one together looks crappy, but runs fine and sounds alright. No more exhaust leaks finally! Next year I am also going to switch back to Amsoil and filter. I'm running 10w-40 GTX right now with Lucus Syn oil stabilizer just because I didn't have the cash for Amsoil. The motor is the nicest thing on this car which is a shame.
  10. TheLoyale
    Yeah I figured out there was no 1-3/4 conduit after a little research. I bought two 1.5" EMT 90s just so I could patch the old header together with home made flanges some dude sent me. Flanges them selfs were pretty rough, but I cleaned them up and flattened them out. Its only temp anyway. The new header/exhaust setup realistically probably won't happen before I tuck the car out of the way for Winter, I dunno. I gotta get the Bonneville's top end seals all replaced two weekends from now, and I should replace the Header gasket on the Landcruiser before winter. Hissing from the leaking gasket is getting old. Oh yeah. I don't drink Starbucks... Lol.
  11. TheLoyale
    Got the motor back together, other than the Oil pan and some new Denso Iridiums. Waiting on an oil pan gasket from Rockauto. I wasn't planning on pulling the oil pan off, back while reinstalling one of the push rods, a HLA fell out, into the pan. I will say one thing, with the pan off, sure makes putting the Pushrods back in easier (You can see if they are actually sitting in the HLAs before snugging up the Rocker shaft) I will get the pictures up soon, just need to find the motivation to deal with Photobuckets lame upload box. Also planning on making a UEL header from EMT (Electrical Metal Tubing) if menards offers 1-3/4" sizing. Mainly because I was looking at making a proper header with real mandrel bent Mild steel tubing from http://www.Columbia River Mandrel-bends.html but after pricing everything, I'm looking at about $200 before shipping (The Merge Collector being the most expensive part at $56 bucks) They also offer manifold flanges which are close enough to the EA81 with the stud holes being 3.125" apart (Genuine is like 3") They also offer Copper flange gaskets which I thought would be a improvement over stock. So at a later date, I will probably make a proper header. I will need to buy a cheap merge collector off eBay though to make this quick/cheap header work. I will make sure to snap pics of what I come up with. -Tom
  12. TheLoyale
    Looks could be deceiving, I don't remember them being too bad when I was under it. But years can do funny things. Hopefully all the layers aren't going. Personally, once you fix them, or treat them. I would weld closed the factory holes in them, pull up the carpeting and coat the ever loving hell out of them on the inside and out. They should last a while then. Plan on doing this with the Loyale once I get to that point. If anything, take a gander at what Eastwood.com (Tool company) has to offer for rust products and frame coatings. I bought a can of their "Internal Frame Coating" have yet to use it, but it seems like it'll be the right idea. That, or flex-seal the snickers outta it
  13. TheLoyale
    Turned out great from the photos! What are you doing with the Bed finish wise?
  14. TheLoyale
    So after thinking I had a failing HG because of coolant in the exhaust, turns out one of the Fel-pro Intake gaskets failed, letting water into the air port. So as of now the motor has both heads off, I installed new Valve seals and cleaned up all the valves, springs, Push rods, Rocker Arms, etc.. Heads are all clean and ready to go back on (Whenever it stops raining) Going to run Perma-Dry HGs and follow the torque procedure in the FSM I have quite a few photos which I need to upload. So stay tuned!! -Tom
  15. TheLoyale
    Glad to hear its still in your possession. How are the welds holding up? I know it was starting to show some surface rust when I last saw it. -Tom
  16. TheLoyale
    Hella Rallye 2000s and 500 Comets all wired up cleanly. Dual Rubber coated toggle switches in dash, 20amp fuse block, 16ga. wires and all factory connectors. Direct power from battery. Got it all done, in the nick of time! Tomorrow is FL4TFEST '16 7am-5pm. We'll be leaving at 6am to get there a little after 7. Also changed the oil, now fresh Amsoil 10w-30 and 25,000k Amsoil EA filter. Had a little fun at Denny's last night
  17. TheLoyale
    What a ride! Beautiful places indeed, the ole L-series looks good everywhere! -Tom
  18. TheLoyale
    I've been wanting to get braided lines, just never got around to it. Perhaps with the EA82 I can get braided lines, gonna need longer lines anyway. The Cibie lights are the ones you see on most of the 80s Rally Subarus eh? I just couldn't pass up these Hellas for $130. New window cranks today, finally Hardtoping once again! Window cranks are Dorman: 76968. These are for the 1st gen Hardtop, but they work great with a little modding to the spline shaft. Best part is, these are metal. No more slipping cranks! Also got a shirt ready for the 2016 FL4TFEST on Aug. 6th. -Tom
  19. TheLoyale
    Original Hella Rallye 2000s. 8.75" Round!
  20. TheLoyale
    So last week, I made a Rallye' Bar for the Hardtop, I fab'ed it up from a lower section of a brush guard for an FJ80, and the rest is made from EMT. 1/4" steel light mount tabs for the top and bottom all painted Semi-gloss white. The Hella Comet 500s are on the bottom and I am waiting for a set of Hella Rallye 2000s for the top. I will be wiring them up in tandem separately with two switches. During the mock-up. Also had to change the trans mount, the day of our 160mile trip to go hiking, the trans started vibrating against the crossmember, didn't sound pritty Lol. Keeping it Subaru Alliance, Keeping it Subaru Ambassador.
  21. TheLoyale
    Bennie mate! Long time indeed. Yeah I am taking my time with the panels and such, along with reconstructing and improving the rear frame rails/bumper mount. I'll need to re-fab the entire rear crash box to make it durable and ridged enough to pull the car out and handle a spare tire on the bumper. I have also been messing around with the Hardtop, making a Rallye' bar with lights. As for the L-series, it does look a lot like mine. In fact I know whose car it is, It belongs to Brain Dudas, he takes the car on Overland adventures and such. We have talked a lot about suspension setups. https://www.facebook.com/Subaruman5?fref=ts As for the Snorkel, mine does sit flush with the A-pillar. The Sand and Heat gun trick worked perfect! Cheers all, -Tom
  22. TheLoyale
    Thank you. I've been trying, been hard to really find motivation lately. Hoping I can get a spark ignited again lol.
  23. TheLoyale
    Brakes have been working flawlessly along with everything else. Although, I found out I needed to replace the inner/outer tie-rod ends on the passenger side, along with the Ball Joint. New tie rod went in quick, Ball joint not so much. BJ bolt will not budge, it is melded with the knuckle. Along with the Control arm bolt being fused to the bushing. There is no saving the Control or the Knuckle. I will be replacing the knuckle and control arm as soon as I get them, I already have all new hardware which mimics the other side that I did last summer. After this, there shouldn't be anything keeping it from hitting the road again. New front struts will be in the future. The tophats are toast, lots of slop in the bushings and I'm sure the strut shafts are knocking around also. I will be using the original springs though. Also in the future are some Hella 550s and some other goodies.
  24. TheLoyale
    Finally joined the new rocker to the new arch panel. Took a little time getting things to line up right, but it turned out pretty spot on so far. Just need to grind down these welds and eventually apply some Bondo so it looks seamless. I still need to join the rocker to the floor pan, but am waiting until I get the gussets in place. In the meantime I am gonna try to get the lower rear quarter panel on, I also need to acquire a rear roll pan and some other bits. Need to get this panel on the mark so the tail light fits correctly. Some pics from today, As you can see, I still need to run a bead on the lower part to finish it off. And once I join the rocker to the floor, it will pull it up a little bit and make it level. Also, there was no need for trimming to allow room for the 30" tire, seems to clear fairly easily even under compression. Lines up well with the door, the rear corner is a little close, and I will reshape it slightly to allow a bit more wiggle room and to keep the gap looking consistent. This is the door which will replace the original, mine had to much rust to be saved. I will be stripping this door down to bare bones, clean up any little rust, coat it on the inside and get it primed. Thanks xbeerd for putting rubber truck bed coating all over the lower part of the door Slowly, but surly coming along. More updates to follow.... -Tom
  25. TheLoyale
    Hmm.... Now why wouldn't anything in the heads be getting oil. Why kind of PSI does the gauge show? Granted dunno how accurate it'd be since I think you used ER27 pump internals on this yeah?
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