TheLoyale

You would be surprised what these cars can do without an LSD, the AWD system in these is pretty unbeatable. I had a '95 Outback, which was the first model year of the Outback trim level. The '95 Outback is a Legacy L with the two tone paint. Also sports an EJ22, which I am kinda surprised to see in your '96, which should have the EJ25D (Quad-Cam motor) Word of advice, Stay away from the Viscus LSDs and get a nice Clutch style. From everything I've read on the USMB over the years from the guys who do heavy off-roading, the LSD isn't the most practical on the trails, if you don't want it as a DD anymore, you're better off Welding the rear diff. As for tires, going with the BFGoodrich All-Terrains would be a decent idea, both street and trail ready and will last a while, unline my Maxxis Bighorns. Also, the grab bar on the rear gate is worth a few $$ on here.. -Tom

I think Tallon's photo shows pretty much all I needed to see (any more!) John, you are more than welcome to post some photos if you have them, incase this thread may help someone else. -Tom

I need me 2yrs ago, I had more done on the Skiwagon by this point than I do on this car. The weather needs to Cooperate! Dropped the rear diff and got the gas tank out of the way. Once I clean it up, I'll make the decision one whether or not I need to buy a new one from MillSupply. I'm hoping this one is just surface rust. Do I need to keep this Banana dooker looking thing? Or can I cap off the ports on the fuel tank and call it good? I understand this is for fumes, but there is also a breather line that runs from the Fuel tank to the emissions stuff under the hood. So would this really be needed? Could the tank build to much pressure?

I know me too. With the mount of welding, the paint by the rockers and wheel arches is going to ruined. I wish I could get the whole car professionally repained, but that would take a lot of green to make it 947 Rudy Mica again. Plus I would also have the change 3 or the 4 doors and possibly the gate (Gate I might be able to save) The two rear doors, the bottoms are just gone on them, I remade them with Sheet metal/Rivets and Bonder years ago and its failing, rust is spreading. Thats why I really want to find a color that really compliments it, I don't want it looking like every Ford Ranger thats sprayed Camo for Duck hunting :/ As for progress, I'm gonna try to drop the gas tank today so I can start cleaning up and welding Subapolooza!

Lol, I'll find a 555 Impreza rally car Micro-Machine But yeah, you do have to change pretty much all the plastic stuff, cause the the B-pillar covers are different, the manual ones have a slot to allow the belt to pass through from the retractor. And if you were to only change those, the plastic piece that runs above the door would look off (Large gap) I suppose if that does bother ya you could leave the rest as is.

You would remove all the power seat belt stuff and track, then bolt in the manual belt retractor and such, and pop on the manual B-pillar covers. I think that would be about it. The B-pillers should be the same, why would Subaru want to waste money making new steel stampings when they have a warehouse full of the same stuff from 1985.

Thanks bud, I could use more Fatmat. Thea bought some for the Bonneville, I'm gonna try to use some of that but I would still need to buy more. Trust me, it'll be put to good use. (I'm not gonna sell this car) Lol..

I am now amassing all the parts I'll need to swap the Auto seat belts to the Manual ones! Thanks Robert! (mm88swrt)

No worries on the threadjack man, if we can kill two birds with one stone, go for it! Yes, that picture works perfectly! Now I see how the A-pillar is a single piece with the trim that runs above the door(s) The Power belt setup is a little different, my B-pillar cover goes over the top trim piece instead of mating up to it. Heres a pic. Manual Vs. Power

So I'm gonna swap out the Power seat belts in the Loyale with manual ones, I've noticed the upper B-pillar plastic is different where it the lower B-pillar cover and meets the head liner, so I will need to swap that out as well. I want to see what else is different. I know I will also need the swap out the A-Pillar cover (The one that runs down the side of the Windshield) Just some good pictures of everything in that general area would be cool with me. Thanks, -Tom

I was thinking Herb Garden or Sage as well. Rob, I did want to go with the Light sandy color at first, but figured it would be too light or a color.

Here is a post from the thread after I painted it and the results with a fine foam roller. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/107331-my-95-legacy-trashwagon10/?p=922294

Check out the Trashwagon10 thread, I rolled the entire car in that thread too.

POLL: Which one of these colors would be best suited on Safariwagon? I have a few person favorites, but lets see what everyone else thinks. Keep in mind, these are all Satin.

Well, I found a way to get custom Rustoleum paints in Satin. Rustoleum offers Door paint for Steel and Wood doors, Extreme durability with UV protection and chip resistant! Still self-leveling which will be a nice feature. Now my problem is figuring out which color I actually want... I will post of picture of the color sheet and see which ones everyone favors most.

Yes, I believe the front shaft is what changes in length.

I agree, check the vacuum line which runs from the intake to the trans. This does not sound like normal operation. My 3AT shifts like a typical tranny depending on how much throttle is being applied (Generally 2500-3000rpm for normal driving) Could this also be a band issue?

You've got it about right, you will also need the 5spd tranny crossmember. The 3AT cars did also come with the 3.9. I think it was a matter of FWD and 4WD being the difference in 3.7 and 3.9. The stubs should be the same. The Turbo cars had the different spline count. Is this going to be a Push-Button 5spd or a D/R setup? As for the wiring for the push button 5spd I'm not 100% sure. -Tom

I'm following this one! Nice progress so far. What are those 4 bolts for right in front of the fuel tank?

I have a garage, but there isn't enough room to work with my dads bike in there. Everything I do is outside I painted Trashwagon outside (Just avoid direct sun)

Was thinking of rolling it if I can find rustolium in this color. I rolled Trashwagon and it turned out really good, more control I think, I would still need to remove everything from the body to get a thorough job, areas I can't get to with a roller I would shoot with a can.

Once I get everything done on the car, I plan on painting it this color.

Interested in this!

Yeah finding gray clips seems few and far between, the only gray clips I've seen are the wrong style. I'm just going to replace the clips with Black, since I have other black accents in the interior. I'll check out lowes, I was really amazed how much more they have Vs HomeDepot and Menards.

Good info on the rally video! Thank you. As for the trans pan, it has a cork gasket which probably leaks already. I always reseal Engine and Transmissions with RTV Black. Works great and doesn't leak if you apply it evenly. As for the headliner, its straight forward. Remove the trim pieces first, then pop or pull out the visible clips. I had to cut my clips so I didn't wreak the Vinyl, but I can buy the same clips online. and the liner will drop down, pull it out the gate and done. The liner is cardboard line the door panels so be gentle.