TheLoyale

Iowa doesn't allow personalized plates? Huh...:-\

Whoops! No, do not use RTV on the mickey mouse seal.. Sorry for not making a space between the two. you can use a dab of bearing grease to hold the Mickey seal in place if needed.. Sorry for the confusion.

If you are to replace the seals, the seals you are looking to replace are: Seal and O-ring for the Cam carriers (Behind the cam sprockets) Crank Seal (Take off the crank pulley and the two crank gears which the timing belts grab. The seal will then be behind that.) Also, on the new waterpump and oil pump gaskets you can apply some Red RTV where the gasket meets the engine block just for added protection - plus it helps keep the gasket where you want. And the small hose I was talking about will be right under the A/C pump (you will need to remove that to get to the upper hose clamp. Just some added tips and pointers.

I'm not a fan of the scissor doors nor the hood scoop. The color is cool, but not for the interior. But to each their own. Its a nice job though. Still running the EA81?

zzz

Oh no clutch fan, you have electric in its place? Nice. Gives ya more room in front of the motor. Sounds good btw.

I run coverless aswell, and proud of it. Makes checking belt tension very easy like GD said. just keep rags away from the running engine PS: Make sure you replace the small hose on top of the waterpump which goes to the heater core pipe running under the intake. Also replace the O-ring on the water pipe for the waterpump, (What the lower Radiator hose connects to) Cheers -Tom

Sweetness! How much difference do the Deltas make? would they work better with an SPFI..?

"Its going to be great when its finished!"

Buy a new car... Lol! But really, does the wheel have any play in it? (Wheel bearing) Check the Castle/Axle nut torque (150lbs+)

The rear fenders on a Loyale/GL/DL and any other Subaru, are part of the main body support/sub-frame - So they will not "un-bolt" you would need to cut and reweld them if you were t replace them. VW bugs and Fiat 500s the rear fenders come off Lol..

Those Rotors are genuine, but Rockauto.com has good brands too. Scott, not sure if the house is gone or not? Lol.. Let me know if you take off and where ya want to meet, I'm down with a food idea "Summers here!!"

Yea, The brake pads I got from Beck/arnley were made defective (Really crappy, I will show you in person next weekend) so I went to Bumper to bumper and bought some new pads which work great! I didn't get done till 9pm, I started at 11am. I wasn't in any real rush anyhow.. Yea, lets meet up next weekend. Either at Foxs place or some place (Store, Food place ect..) maybe give Fox (Liz) a break from us? Lol.

Gonna run a sleeper car Mick? Old GL wagon with a 500c.i Keith Black power plant! "Hence the hood pins"

New Rotors, Drums, Pads, Shoes. Removing Stud plate: 4 14mm bolts. Removed: Old rotor: Top caliper pin: Rear Drum: Stopping power is 100 times better then before

Hood pins are boss...!

I put new, Pads, Shoes, Rotors, Drums on my wagon today.. Pics tomorrow. Those Enkies looks awesome btw! -Tom

In order to remove the axle off the trans stub, you would need to either remove the control arm from the crossmember or pop the BJ out of the hub from the control arm. to be able to swing the entire hub out enough to pull the DOJ off the trans stub. Ben, in order to get enough clearance I would just pop the BJ out of the hub so I could swing the hub out some with the axle DOJ disconnected from the tranny cause then the entire strut/hub assembly will pop down and out enough to get the spacer block up and bolted to the strut top, then just put it all together. The axle shaft will rub on the crossmember where the control arm meets while the car is jacked up (Mine does) but one on the ground you will have enough space where it won't. As for why one side does and the other doesn't I have no clue, maybe it was hit once and somethings a bit off. But with the DOJ disconnected you will be able to swing the axle up more to clear the crossmember so you can put your block in. (I've been there and done it, Lol)

If you were to remove the A/C pump or alt you will see the small rubber hose thats bent like an "L" that connects to the top of the water pump and then goes to the heater core line that runs under the intake manifold. you will have to remove the A/C pump or Alt (Depending if you have A/C or not) and you will then see it. If you were to replace the Waterpump you would need to remove this hose anyway to get the water pump out. -Tom

Looking good Ben! Finally lifting it Are those 14" BFGs!? Must be old huh? As for the waterpump, mine was leaking out of the weep hole and there was no play in the shaft (Go figure) it very well could be that small 2" long hose from the WP to the heater core line like GD said. I had the part number for it (Dunno if I still do) Keep us up to date

What I did today: Thanks to Mick! ALLIANCE Decal!

But you elders are supposed to be kind to us youngens, or something like that right? How about, you pay for the Round Trip - and I take the RX home with me.. I'll shake your hand as I pull away. Deal? Anyway, enough nonsense from me now.

Pictures please!

Cool, that looks pretty wild in there. Gonna give me a ride?

Rough rides are what Subarus were ment for, I like my cars to ride like trucks. Hmm, a Brat Trophy Truck eh... That would be cool with long travel shocks and electric cooling fans ontop!