-
Posts
7169 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
18
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by TheLoyale
-
Yes, I have changed the Trans fluid twice (Now running Synthetic) The fill tube for the ATF is on the Driver side close to the Steering link and yes, the front diff uses its own gear oil 85-90 and the fill tube for that is on the pass side just above the axle. I would change both, I wouldn't run a flush, possibly drop the pan and wipe it out along with the Valve body to remove the typical gray sludge. To drain the gear oil, there is a plug under the trans, or its on the side on FWD trannys I kinda forgot.
-
MillSupply. This car is far much less work than the GL ever was.
-
I'm going out to a Junkyard tomorrow, I am going to pick up an Auto darkening Mirror with Digi compass from a S-10 Blazer and adapt it for Subaru use! Pictures of new panels and upcoming mirror soon...!
-
Found a site that specializes with mounting clips and fasteners. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Subaru_Grill_Bumper_Clips_s/304.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=304&show=45&page=1
-
Rockers and Wheel Arches came today! I will get some pictures of them in a bit.
-
Separating EA82 headlamp asembly
TheLoyale replied to MilesFox's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I was just simply replying to Fox with my own experience and what worked for me. It doesn't take to much to loosen the 20+yr old glue on these from my experience. Thats all. -
Removed the Headliner to check out the Supporting slats in the roof, everything seems solid. So I will be applying FatMat on the entire roof to dampen any noise. I am also removing all the original sound coating as I did in the GL, then will be coating the entire floor (After welding up anything need be) with Rustolium's Truck Bed Liner (Dries hard like enamel) Then will be applying FatMat through-out the floor and wheel wells. Labeling All hardware!
-
Separating EA82 headlamp asembly
TheLoyale replied to MilesFox's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Yes, I do it every day of my life. Cause can't get enough you see. -
Separating EA82 headlamp asembly
TheLoyale replied to MilesFox's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Fox, yours should come apart pretty easy as the glue is old. I have taken my old set apart to get the water out of them and to reseal them. I agree with the heat, dunno if I would stick it in an oven, a Heatgun or a Blowdryer would work well in my opinion. Then work your way around the edge with your finger tip or Screwdriver. -
More progress today! Seats out, Carpeting out, Pillar Covers off, still need to remove Headliner.
-
Must watch Leone in Rally! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XbzyLbPDTs
-
No stampings for the lower panel (Boo!) but its for the most part pretty easy to remake. As for the paint, its holding up everywhere perfectly except for the front door pads, maybe I didn't clean them well enough IDK? I want to take all the door pads to an upholstery and just have them redone with Black vinyl.
-
Went to MillSupply and ordered both rocker stampings and both wheel arch stampings! $160 shipped.
-
I'm just going to remove the bedliner with a flapper disc and then see why I covered it cause I don't remember lol. If its rusted I'll just cut out what needs to be and weld in new. I need to remake the rear quarters completely, cause I know there isn't anything left. I filled it with Bondo back in the day lol.
-
Oh yeah, I remember seeing the build for this Brat! Hope it lives a long happy life!
-
Just got the CC852 front springs! Their pretty nice, Epoxy coated and all. So, the Loyale is now getting the same treatment that the Skiwagon received! Stage: 1 Tear Down and Evaluation I started removing the interior from the cargo area and am working my way forward. The headliner is also coming down to figure out the banging noise in the roof and to add FatMat sound deadening. Time for pictures! This bedliner was from a few years ago when I tried to slowdown some rust. This will all be stripped away and done right. Most of the crash compartment is made out of resin and sheets, this will all be cut out and welded up correctly. I will also be making the rear bumper mounting points stronger by using square stock and adding mounting points.
-
Yes. I just took the car out of the garage this week. Haven't worked on it yet.
-
I will be putting them in this weekend, I will go over some train tracks and that should be the true test (The car bottoms out since the suspension swap)
-
Took the Loyale out of the garage today and took the Fiance' for a ride. Got the rear GR-2 struts today. Just need to purchase the front struts. The part number I have for the front KYB struts are 233022 and 233023, they are the KYB Excel, I can't source KYB GR-2s for the front...? Anybody have info for this? Loyale is running great as always! Neutral safety switch is a little bothersome some times.
-
Ah, you are right. I just re-read your write up and you did say about both MOOG springs. I'm hoping I will not need to cut the CC852 springs to get them to fit onto the strut since they are a little weaker than the CC854, I'm thinking I may be able to compress them enough, we'll see once I get the springs and start with the swap. So far I've only ordered the front Top Hats. I was able to find two new MOOG brand ones for $52.00 shipped on ebay versus $72 .ea
-
Here are all the Part Numbers for the Suspension Components I will be swapping in come this Spring. Struts: Front Left: KYB GR-2 233023 (Part Number For 4WD EA82) Front Right: KYB GR-2 233022 (Part Number For 4WD EA82) Rear Left/Right: KYB GR-2 341065 (Part Number For 4WD EA82) Springs: Front Left/Right: MOOG CC852 or CC854 (Part Numbers For 2nd Gen Ford Tempo Non-A/C and/or A/C Equipped) Rear Left/Right: MOOG CC248 (Part Number For '86-'89 Honda Accord) Strut Top Hats: Front: MOOG K9557 Strut Mount Bushing Kit: Rear Bushing Kit: KYB SM5362
-
Beautiful! That was what I was looking for. I totally forgot about using Springs from a Tempo. Thank you for the MOOG Part Number, I crossed it using O'Reilly Autos Parts System since I used to work there and it brought up the Part number you posted CC852 and the CC854 which has 2 lbs more force because of Air Conditioning I suppose. Just figured I'd post this little bit of extra info. Here is the link http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Coil+Spring/03360/C0361.oap?keyword=springs&year=1994&make=Ford&model=Tempo&vi=1139767
-
So now that I have the rear springs figured out and actually have the set of CC248s in my possession. What would be the upgrade for the front springs? I'm guessing once I install the Accord springs in the rear, that the rear will sit higher than the front (Again) I would like to keep the Loyale leveled out. JesZek, I can't remember if you posted a write up of such a swap or not for the front springs or not.
-
Snow--park to back up or go forward?
TheLoyale replied to Wildpaint's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Either way, a Subaru will go thru any amount of consistent snow (At least up to the headlights) when in deep snow, once moving stand on the throttle to power thru it. As for parking, if it becomes real deep, you may have an advantage of backing up as you are then pushing down the front of the car pushing more weight downward onto the wheels which would give you more traction, like a typical FWD car. I've never got a Subaru stuck in all the crazyness I've taken them thru. Fox is right with the driving aspec, I usually drift while cornering regardless cause it makes me giggle.