TheLoyale

Fuses were the first thing I checked, then I checked the Coil, I get a volt reading off it and I also get pulsing while cranking if I use a light tester. Everything looks and seems fine, I just do not have any spark at all (I pulled #1 plug and cranked it) I ECU was flashing code 11 and 13 before, but now it just flashes 7 short times and starts over again. That is not a code. Guess I'm going to check the disty pigtail for ohms to make sure there is not a broke wire somewhere in the harness. As for the Steering column, nope, I did not touch it at all, but I will double check things there too.

So it was not the pickup/Crank Sensor. I'm at a loss. There are only two grounds on the motor, right? One from the trans body and the other is attaches to the lower water pipe (Goes into Waterpump) Before I dropped the motor, it started and ran, now it just cranks.

Anybody looking for a 2" SJR kit?

Nope.

New development!! if you turn the key all the way to on, you will hear the fuel pump and some relays click like usual, BUT, after that, the pump will cycle again and relays click again. It seems to keep doing it, almost as if you were turning the key ON and OFF. Why is this? Whats going to cause this issue? I am guessing these two issues are tied together.

If I stick the light tester on the positive batt terminal and touch the negative coil post I get pulsing light. If I touch the positive post I get nothing. If I stick the light tester on the negative batt terminal and touch either the pos/neg posts on the coil I get nothing. Is this correct? So this only confirms that the coil and igniter thing are working, so the Disty/Pickup could still be shot. Any easy way to test that? I want to make sure the disty is dead before I drop $108 on a new one.

I got 7.3v outta either side of the coil with Key-ON using a multi-meter.

Nope everythings connected. I connected the white connecters up by the Brake booster to run the Diagnostic, and the ECU is flashing code 11 and 13 which are both for (Crank Angle Sensor No Reference Pulse) I have the full paper FSM for 1991 Loyale, so I'm checking that for trouble shooting. I hope my disty isn't crap.

Yeah I managed to get the hoses figured out well enough for now. Now my other problem is not having any spark. I had the car running just a few days ago after I finished the fuel lines. But now, after I lowered the motor, I have no spark. Everything looks good, all the grounds are there, no missed connections or anything, fuse is also good. What am I missing?

I found that the joints only bind on the outer edge, so I am going to shave them a little and that should smooth out the steering. I still don't know what I'm doing to do about radiator hoses.

JesZek, thanks for the link. Even without the fan shroud on the radiator, the fan may still make contact with the main wire harness. I will have to zip tie it out of the way temporarily until I swap in an electric fan, I will have to read up on your fan swap thread again Ideas on the steering shaft anyone? I made it longer, it reaches the rack and the steering column, but the U-joint angle is too extreme and it binds a bit. Is the Outback shaft a direct swap in or?

The whole lift is pretty much on, need to put in the pass. side strut, extended steering shaft and we're good. Now, I've noticed that the clutch fan hits the lower part of the rad, more so the wire harness. What has everyone done about this? Everyone runs electric fans?

Thats a headache and a half! I hope you have better luck with the EMPIs than I did. I bought 2, one was ok, but then the boot ripped. The 2nd the DOJ was very stiff when I took it out of the box. Almost like it had no grease in it, only assembly lube. I never bothered to pack it cause I didn't want to mess around with the boot. Now it clicks if I don't drive the car for a few weeks, but then it goes away after you start driving it some distance Ha! Hasn't broke yet though! After I do the new lift, I am gonna replace both axles with my house brand ones as they are "NEW" and not remans. Man its been a while since I've been on the Ussmuub.

Started taking the rear suspension apart today, the only part I am not looking forward to is trying to remove the soft line so I can get a longer one. I just know I'm going to twist off the line nuts! How long of a brake hose has everyone else gone with on the rear? Part numbers perhaps? Also, what has everyone done about the front lines? I'll just have to look thru brake lines when I go into work tuesday.

Oh yeah, duh. I dunno what I'm thinking. Thanks man

What did you do for the diff mount drop, the one on top of the diff? I was thinking of getting round stock and cutting it to 4 lengths, anyone else..? Did something to the Loyale today before work, swapped to the JDM/EDM corner lights and wired them in with the factory connector (The JDM bulb sockets are different than the USDM) As well as the top mounting point where it meets the headlight bucket - That is something I still need to create. I have 30 days to get this call built up. Will I make it?

Painting the rest of the 4" BOSS lift kit. I am using Mar-Hyde Acid Etching primer with Rust-Olium Professional Grade Smoke Gray. I am applying it with a brush, so its super thick and durable. It self levels so it looks smooth once it dries. Also got 4 new Monroe Economatic struts (Factory replacements) I am painting them gloss white.

As for Moog Ball joints for the EA82, I can order anything working at o'reilly. The part number is: Line Code: Part Number: MOO K9081 They are like $32 under my account.

I need a mustache bar.... Anyone got one?

Working.

Dropping the Crossmember will in no way level out the front end, A larger spacer would be needed on top of the strut mount to level out the car (Or stiffer/more coils) The lift kit is now finally getting painted.