TheLoyale

You can thank McPherson and a Flat-4 motor for its nifty handling in the twistys.

Got the Flywheel back today. $40 for the machine work. Used blue loc-tite on the Flywheel bolts, and just torqued the pressure plate bolts. Motor back in, clutch and hill holder adjusted.

My 3AT 4WD with 27s and roofrack still gets decent mileage, went all the way to MI from WI and used maybe 2 tank fulls roundtrip. Mind you I was running at 4100rpm most of the way. So a FWD 3AT Sedan would actually get rather decent mileage, I'd say mid-20s with full tune up.

The rear axles are in a way, under less stress, as with the 2" kit, the angle isn't horrible (Even with the wheels off the ground/suspension at full travel) Since the rear axles don't have to pivot and turn like the front CVs. And yes, rear axles are harder to come by. You cannot buy them new as far as I know, unless you want to drop $250 for one at the dealer. Yeah I think Bill is still offering the smaller kits. I'd PM him -Tom

2" lift kit won't hurt your axles, they may click once and a while during turning and flexing, but other than that, I've been 2" lifted for 3-4yrs now, haven't had any issues.

Ok, that helps! Machining marks noted. So when they grind the clamping surface, they also need to regrind the step regardless, right?

Looking for a picture of a newly resurfaced flywheel, gonna pick mine up tomorrow and want to make sure it is correct (So I have an idea what I'm looking at) I heard some parts houses will use the same machine which turns rotors, vs using one for flywheels, is this a problem and are they any ways to tell which machine has been used by looking at the newly turned surface? Pictures please! -Tom

Sounds like someone had at least one good idea on removing those covers.

I'm guessing that HLA is not holding pressure, so it collapses causing the loudest of tick, then it pumps it self up a little and starts all over. I've never had a Subaru with TOD, typical morning tick for a few seconds once and a while, but thats it. Have you replaced the Cam tower o-rings?

This is an EA81, not an EA82

Lol! Yeah, didn't think about that! That would've been one off eh. Its kinda Red and Blue, Pink intake, blue everything else. Just need a white oil filter :-p Paint the entire block white, Red intake blue valve covers/oil pan!

LMAO! So thats how its done eh. Never thought of that

Wow, you have one!? If you want to man, that'd be awesome. You get 10,000 USMB points!

If in fact the steering column is different from the Legacy to Outback models, somebody post a comparison pic! I'd like to see this. It almost seems silly that Subaru would manufacture a different shaft for the same body car. If anything, you can always cut the original u-joint in half, and use a piece of round tubing cut to whatever length you need, drop in both ends, and weld it up. This is what most lifted guys do since its easy (If you have a welder) Its not really a safety concern as long as you get solid welds.

This is a pretty cool thread so far! Nice letter from the other owner! That car is rather clean

The Power steering pump is making one hell of a racket, dunno what it is. There is no play in the pump shaft, but this is not a typical pump whine from lack of fluid. The system is always full with ATF as it should be. Also, the noise does not change with pump load, but does increase with RPM. Its a pulsating metallic moan. I'm thinking its an internal bearing. The pump is somewhat harder to turn by hand then I remember. Anyone else ever had failing pump?

Yes, much needed sleep is was something I forgot about till now. If I get another job, I need to find one that starts a little later in the morning, like 6-7am. I can't keep pulling the 3am gig. Gonna see if I can get hired on at a Part store.

I am gonna be swapping on the original fixed hood soon. Painted the underside with Rustoleum truck bed liner spray, now I'm gonna give the top a quick sanding to remove anything that got onto the primer and hit it with some gloss white paint! Only temp until I get the body repainted by a pro.

Agreed. Although, Fel-Pro head gaskets are usually a genuine part, they have the Fuji stamping on them, at least every kit I've seen so far, EA82, ER27 and EJ22. Well, things are gonna slow up from this point on. I just quit my job at Target, it was really becoming BS everyday, pushed my self everyday, hard, and it still wasn't enough, too many people have gotten fired and I had to take up the slack. I said enough is enough, goodbye. Jon, wanna throw me a job...

Cause nobody tries to take care of them before that happens. Had mind for almost 7yrs, hasn't really rusted any more then it had before, just the same old spots. I'm managing it pretty well.

Take the fricken fracken bulb out.

Bring it back here! Start a population again, perhaps with some weird inbreeding, we can start a new gaggle of these in the Mid-west! Anyway, yeah that motor is looking tasty. Digging the Bronze accents.

Yes. So also snag the extended Steering joint from the Outback you pull the blocks from. Just so you know, the Outback blocks drop the engine and rear crossmember down so the axles are a little might level as you said, but they will not raise the body up. The struts and strut top hats are whats gonna give you lift. You sound A-OK Houston...