TheLoyale

I did a search, didn't find much. Its probably buried, or just a lack of correct key words. Anyway, I could offer you $100, I dunno if I'd have anything around that you'd want.

I get paid next weekend, and could probably pay for the trans anytime after that. I need to also get the flywheel turned so I can put the GL back together.

Yeah, I'd be down sometime soon. PM me what its worth to you, I may just swap the Loyale to 5spd sometime! No worries on the header.

You do! ************, I may have to offer you up some bones and stash that on my place. You have an EA82 Header by chance?

Put the new rear main in. Removed and painted the motor mounts. Cleaned inside of the bell housing (Motor side)

That is really nice, I need a Tig welder Wow the rest of the car turned out great as well. bravo!

Fox, yep got the text from Liz. Haha thats pretty funny! Good thing with the flywheel, thats a easier. I hear you on the satin black, that was the plan, I need to wire wheel the rust, maybe grind it and then paint it, might as well do it right. I will keep the bearing for laughs, amazing how small it is, and how thin the rollers are. I would total drop in a 5spd D/R if I had one, but these things just don't fall out of the sky around here like out west. The 3.900 4spd D/R isn't to bad, I'm running at 3000rpm at like 75mph, so its about 1100rpm lower than the 3AT Loyale at that speed. Maybe I should just swap a 2.2 Driveline in this car and make a rocket out of it, store the EA81 in my room as a show piece. Rob, Interesting. I will indeed check out the fork. Should I apply grease to the face of the throw-out bearing, or no? I did regrease the mount the TOB presses onto, the cast piece that slides on the output shaft, obviously, that is supposed to be greased.

How are your Fuel regulators?

JesZek, I was kinda thinking about what you just said. I could do the firewall black and the rest white. But I think the Black will showcase the motor colors more, also will hide some of the wiring for a cleaner look. Rob, I did not check the back of the fork. I didn't remove it. Don't think I really want to...? What are the odds it has cracking? James, I am kinda displeased with the progress I'm making. I really wanted to be farther along by now. I made one boo boo, I didn't mark the flywheel before I took it off. So now I will have to fine TDC #1 so I can put the flywheel back one once I install the new rear mail seal.

Glad the pix helped ya. yeah I dunno what that little bearing is for either, ANYONE KNOW? Back to work.... Cleaned all the oooey gooey sludgy fudgy mess off the crossmemeber. Used Washing fluid to break down the oils, scrubbed with green pad then used Soapy water to clean it up. Gonna repaint the entire engine bay satin black (Engine Enamel) Fork with new Throw-out bearing. Inspection plate.

As for you running issue, perhaps a Vacuum leak? Try spraying around with some starting fluid and see if the idle changes. Get a better spotter next time :-p

I like waffles Rob, how about you?

Yeah I'm thinking I may just get it done right. Gotta wait till I have $40-50 stashed. I'm gonna drop the oil pan, de-rust it, paint it (Some color) reseal it with RTV. I'd like to get Stainless bolts for it too.

Yeah its not gouged, I feel a very slight groove, so I am wondering if I should get it turned? If I didn't have the groove I would go the sand paper route. Don't want the disc to be slippin' as I ain't scratchin' phat tracks.

Moist. This red rubber, isn't a seal is it? Disc. Pressure plate. The fingers aren't broke, but the ends are worn and grooved. Flywheel looks and feels ok. I don't think it needs to be resurfaced. Yes/No? New Sachs kit. Throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, what is the very small roller bearing for? New pressure plate.

Motor is now out. Went to the dealer and ordered a rear main, $15! But mine is leaking so it looks. I will have some questions that I'll post up later, with pictures more or less. Side note, Fork looks mint. No cracking, still has original blue/gray paint.

You will drop the struts 4" then drop the crossmembers ect 2" (So the axles are closer to stock geometry)

Anything larger than a 2" lift, and you will be dropping the engine/trans crossmember, Radius rod mounts, Rear suspension tube and mustashe bar. A 3" lift, you will drop everything else 1" ect..

These cars are OBD-I, the engine light will flash a series and repeat. You then count the flashes and look up the code in a repair manuel (Chilton, Hayens)

Its a 45* angle iirc. I will take a picture of mine. Also, you need to turn the rear coilovers around when you bolt them back up to the lift, as the tophat will not be at the correct angle with the new bends. Heres mine before the lift lol..

I see some tire rub in the rear! Time for a lift

I could see the diesel soaking into the top layer of the paint, and making it look better. Dunno if it'll eat away any oxidization, but looking forward to the new photos!

Rubbering compound will do it. Like they used to do in the '40s, rubbing compound will cut through the damaged surface, and then you can rewax it to seal it up better. It's gonna be a little work either way, it pays off though.

That looks great man! Well done!

I have both, I will probably use Moly so its more robust. Good call on this, I will check this out.