TheLoyale

*Puts gun to engine block* Why do you keep bucking!

I like the shackles better than D-rings, as they can be easily replaced.

So, JesZek posted this video link in his "BumbleBeast" thread. This is the first time I have seen this, and I started to ask my self, how come no one ever really tries to build up an EA82 with hop-ups like this? Apparently stuff is available to a degree. The DOHC heads must be machined much much better than the stock EA82 heads (Gen-I, Gen-II, Gen-III) I wonder, roughly, how much money this guy stuck into this EA82? I have never seen anyone really build up an EA82 and run it in a car, everyone goes the EJ route (Which is fine and dandy) but a custom DOHC EA82 would be novel in a EA81/EA82 chassis. Feel free to comment, post questions or thoughts on this topic. DO NOT let this turn into another Flame war over the long debated "EJ swap it" method. Cheers!

Those are a good size, You want something that'll take abuse. The scale of those look pretty close to whats on mine.

When I get the money for one. I'm waiting for the Toyota seals first, so I can have that all done and drive it again!

+100,000,000

When you go to press the caliper piston in on the Loyale, you need to press and turn at the same time for it to seat back into its bore (Newer EJ Subarus you can just press the piston in with a C-clamp) If you piston is stuck, soak it with some PB-Blaster or DeepCreep. Than use a block of wood and the hydraulic pressure of the system to back the piston out a little bit (Work it, to unfreeze it) Do not let the piston come completely out. Might just save you some more time and money.

Yeah I hear that. I had that issue with my Loyale for the longest time (Back when I had a primer patch for 3yrs) the rust started to show, resprayed it with primer lol! I might as well paint the hood white while I'm at it.

Damn that Legacy looks good.

I run coverless on all Subarus, never had a failed belt and you can inspect it on the daily if you want. Also makes adjusting the EA82 timing belt tension easier. The timing covers are known to break just by looking at them.

Transfer Punch FTW!

Yeah 35x12.5 is the way to go on these. Wish I knew that before I bought my 33s lol. Ordered the seals from CruiserOutfitters, should get them sometime next week I would guess. $129 shipped.

Depending on style of alloy wheel, you can not redrill them, which is what I meant. The Toyota Alloys for instance, you don't have any material to drill, since most alloys have recessed lugs.

I fixed all the dents and holes in the original hood today. The hood I bought out of the Junkyard has a very large dent in the center (Like someone sat on it) and has a little more rust. So I cleaned up the original hood and will use this hood instead. Sanded entire hood and coated with Primer. It'll stay primer until I get the whole car repainted professionally later on. This is the other hood which I bought, it'll be a good spare. I may even fix this hood as well when I'm bored. Also painted the wheels Satin black. This is the Core support I got from TomR, thanks man! I just need to cut and weld it up. I have to cut this one up so I don't ruin the upper section as it is still in good shape.

Two of the 4x140 stud will line up perfect with a 6x139 wheel. use those two studs, knock out of the other two. Bolt wheel to hub, center punch each new hole and start drilling, remove wheel and finish the holes. Use the wheel as your guide, not that hard. This is the route I'm going on my '83. 1. Tire shops are iffy about touching redrilled wheels. 2. Redrilled wheels look sloppy (Unless you fill the unused holes) 3. Very hard to redrill Alloy wheels.

Which is why its easier to drill the hubs. Cleaner look, and no worries on beveling. Plus it looks cool, how many Subarus do you see with 6-lug?

Man, you are almost in the middle of the state! If you ever find your way to WI look me up and we'll do a Loyale meet, xbeerd has a '92 Loyale as well. -Tom

Indeed I could.

I am looking forward to driving it and not have it buck anymore, before, it was like the car was trying to hump me LMAO! I am welding on the original hood tonight. The Calif. Hood has a huge dent in it which can be seen when wet. The original hood it dent free, but had two drilled holes in it from hood pins. I welded those closed and ground them down, next up will be some filler and blending. Wire wheel the underside and repaint with black enamel.

You will be very happy with the BFGoodrich KM2. They are a heavy tire, but are the best I've had so far. They also wear really good for a Mud-Terrain, they last.

Think we finally have the Weber tuned correctly. Had to richen it up, then we adjusted the Choke plate so it'll close more when cold, and adjusted the Step-up a little higher. Seems to start up and run like a top now, thanks Dad! Can't really drive it until I get the thermo switch. (Well I could hook the fan directly to the batt and drive it around, but eh, I'll wait.)

The rack turned out good, all steel is a plus. Are you planning on using those wheels in the back of the car? Looks to be some type of 6 or 8-lug wheel? Here is a detailed write-up on how to do a 6-lug swap. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=132536

Any 6-lug Toyota wheel will work. They are 6x139. Here is a detailed write-up about 6-lug swapping. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=132536

Really! Gonna PM you.

I may be onto something here! Will post later with details once I find that it did fix the issue. ALSO, I need a Thermo switch. Mine stopped working today, where can I buy a new one? Rockauto doesn't list it (Only the Temp sender for the gauge) Parts house wants $40 for the switch, BS!