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Everything posted by TheLoyale
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All cleaned up, and covered for winter. Still need to figured out the final resting spot and then take the battery out and toss it on a Batt tender.
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There are PDF downloads of the entire Factory Service Manual, which will have everything you could imagine it in. I can't find a link at the moment, but someone might post it up. Pretty much all the little round things, which are being called Regulators, are straight thru, with no restrictions. The round part stays filled with fuel (Probably so there isn't a hiccup with fuel delivery)
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Can you get another shot of where the bumper is mounted? Or at least explain it lol. Curious as to what you mounted it to. Engine crossmember with some type of bracket?
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If it is SPFI, disconnect the fuel line which comes from the outlet on the Fuel filter (Under the hood, on the driver side) that main feeder line runs to the base of the throttle body. Stick a Fuel Pressure Tester on it right there, and see what you have for pressure. Is it possible, someone put the Main and Return lines on backwards when they changed the fuel filter? This will cause an almost no start situation. Also, when you turn the Key to "On" you should hear the humming of the Fuel pump priming the system. You you don't hear anything, or feel it vibrating, check or bypass the FP relay.
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6.5" Pioneer TS-A1676R 3-ways. Am improvement over stock, a little more depth and range. I may see about finding a new HU that will fit into the stock console, but with the option of USB.
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I was surprised to find Clarion speakers in the rear deck. I am going to replace them with something new, possible some type of 3-way. one speaker is kinda blown, probably from all the sunlight and age. So some new Polypropylene speakers will help. I'm not changing the Head unit, as I don't have a slant console. The currant radio works perfectly as is anyhow.
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Been acting as one of the DDs lately. so nice to turn the key and know it'll be ready to go! Still need to add a lot of things, and make things better, but its a perfect driver right now.
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Did you make sure to put the grounds back on the motor? No spark seems kinda odd, unless the Pickup totally died in the disty all of a sudden. Could also check the play in the rotor shaft, the shaft Bushings like to wear down on the EA81/EA71 distys (EA82s have bearings) which will cause a good amount of up and down and side to side play/slop. Also, did anyone unhook the connections to the Coil at all? If these were put onto the wrong terminals, it will cause a no spark situation.
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Weber induction noise, is a thing of beauty.
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The reason for the blinking seatbelt light is due to not having anything hooked up inside the car. Everything is still disconnected, except for the few things needed to run. One day, I am going to build a proper UEL header for this, remove the cat, weld in a bung for the O2 sensor, run 2.25" mid-pipe, with a possible Glasspack as a resonator, then run 3 to 3.5" for a tailpipe, should give it that nice deep tone, we all want. Personally, the Loyale sounds so much better than the GL. Whats funny is, the Skiwagon sounded closer to the Loyale, the GL is very quiet, and I am starting to wonder if something is plugged. Completely new exhaust is also in view for the GL.
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My '92 Landcruiser: Safariwagon-II
TheLoyale replied to TheLoyale's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
Removed the battery box and cleaned up some grounds today. I'm gonna add another ground soon, From batt to either engine, or engine bay. Figured, I better start putting some love into this beast before winter. Need to grab another case of Amsoil Signature 10w30 soon as well as a Amsoil extended service filter. I am also going to replace the hose clamps on the air intake, with constant torque or T-bolt clamps. Probably Mishimoto. -
Like this? https://www.facebook.com/groups/55757792531/permalink/10153153392647532/
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My '92 Landcruiser: Safariwagon-II
TheLoyale replied to TheLoyale's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
So I ordered both new O.E fit Cat pipes (Comes from the Manifold to the joining mid-pipe) I needed to buy new pipes, just for the fact of replacing the Oxygen Sensors (Studs and flanges are rusted something fierce) Anyway, when I get those, I am going to cut the cats off, and just put tubing in its place. No more cats, since desmoggling this beast. I also ordered both new Denso O2 Sensors. Got everything off Rockauto for about $350. Hoping after this, I won't hear any more hissing from the pin-hold welds on the cats. -
Are you planning an SPFI swap for one of these EA81s?
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My '92 Landcruiser: Safariwagon-II
TheLoyale replied to TheLoyale's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
One day, this truck will have 4.29 Locking front and rear axles with rear disk, 35x12.5x16 KM2s, ARB Front winch bumper. And a possible dream to swap in a 4B-T Cummins Turbo Diesel. -
My '92 Landcruiser: Safariwagon-II
TheLoyale replied to TheLoyale's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
Some, Rocker pictures! -
My '92 Landcruiser: Safariwagon-II
TheLoyale replied to TheLoyale's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
Just rolled over 180,000 on the ole' 3F-E. Also took care of the one rust spot on the truck. Had to rebuild the rear section of the passenger side rocker. Looks almost perfect. Rockers are now Dupli-Color Bedliner. -
Anything you're gonna find at a Junkyard in the Midwest, is probably a long shot. The EA81 Radiators are kinda short, but tall. EA82 Radiator is longer and about the same height. EJ (Impreza/Outback) Radiator is a no go. Uses top mounts to bolt it to the radiator support. And is far to different. Someone tried to put one in my Hardtop when I bought it. It was held in by Zip-ties, And had Hybrid sleeved hoses. You also have to concern your self with the Inlet/Outlet sizes. The EAs use rather small hoses. You're best bet, is to get an OE style rad. You're looking at about $140ish off Ebay shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-APDI-8010698-fits-80-87-Subaru-Brat-/151668040133?fits=Year%3A1983%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AGL&hash=item23501ea1c5&vxp=mtr Or, if you have O'reilly near you, grab a Murray one. (Their all made by the same 3 companies now days) $129.99 http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MHT1/433698/01386.oap?year=1984&make=Subaru&model=Brat&vi=1267725&ck=Search_radiator_1267725_3283&keyword=radiator I know money is running out, I know the feeling far to often lol. But sometimes, there is no cheap option.
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Thanks man, that is the one thing this car does have. Its clean interior. Body isn't bad, until you look on the over side. Its so rusted, its sad. Thats what happens when you leave a car sit in tall grass forever.
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Time for a fun post! Swapped in an EA82 dome light. Direct fit and finish. But so much more light than the EA81 style. Just chillin' in back of the Hardtop. Its ONLY 90 degrees out
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A lot of the things done to this motor, Decked heads, EA71 Pistons etc. Can be found in this write-up. Along with regrinding the cam and ignition improvements. http://www.subarubrat.com/engine.htm There is also an old topic about this same thing on USMB, Rick (GeneralDisorder) laid down some decent information about all this as well in the thread. But I cannot seem to find it.
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Its always cool to have two matching Subies!
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Anyone have an idea of what type of sealant is used on the tail lights? The Black tar like substance. I'm looking for something like that, I can apply to my '80-'82 Tail lights before I put them on the Hardtop. Cheers!
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