TheLoyale

ALSO, I noticed that the rotor shaft has a little bit of side to side play. It didn't have that when I first installed it about 60miles ago. WTF? Is this ok... Or did I get another dud?

AH, I have the EA82 memorized. Plus my FSM shows a list of Timing degrees, and I was looking at when the Intake valve opens, which is 20* BTDC. So, I made a big error lol. So, what I am going to do is, Take the disty out (Again) turn motor to 8* BTDC on Compression stroke for #1 cyl. Then, line up the two dots on the disty, install disty, the rotor shaft shouldn't move, right? Cause every other time I installed it, the rotor would either be pointing a little after or a little before the marker lines I drew. I also had the motor set at 20* BTDC before. Oops. So if I set it all at 8*, I should have enough advancement by turning the disty later on. I should mention, before when I had the disty installed, it ran ok, but I ran out of Advancement and the timing was showing about 8* at full Advance. So I will post back tomorrow with how it turns out...

OH!? I knew 20 didn't sound right, have new clue where I pulled that figure from. Hmm, ok. I will adjust it and see how it goes. I'm a little rusty on adjusting ignition timing. You do have to mark the number on the flywheel where you want the timing set, yeah? So If I mark the 10* spot, line that up with the arrow on the bellhousing, it should be at 10* BTDC, right? My books don't really give a good explanation, even the FSM is vague. And for some reason I have forgotten some of the steps.

That little red Kia is cute. What model is that?

That is cool! I wish Subaru would bring some more of the non U.S spec options to the U.S. Although most people who buy Subaru in this country wouldn't understand what D/R is for. Americans want the car to do all the work these days. A Subaru with cup holders! Amazing... :-p

Put the new disty in, this time it works! Its a Partsmaster now WTF? Either way, its still the original casted housing and such. Car runs better than it did, I still have some bucking, but now its not really at speed. If I'm on the interstate, it doesn't really buck, but if I'm doing 45mph it'll buck a little with slight load on motor. So, I dunno. Perhaps its the clutch? I still need to change all that stuff out. I set the timing to 20* BTDC or close to it, it runs a lot better than it did, and wow, its not as noisy now. Didn't know the disty was making that much ruckus.

Wow thats pretty cool, Factory snorkel is awesome! I'm gonna order the axle seals next week so I can get this show on the road and get the truck, back on the road!

Oh yeah, that one is a PITA.

What did you use all the extensions for? Awesome photo! Just gonna pull the motor out by hand? :-p

xbeerd made up this wiring diagram so I can change the corner lights to Turn signals. This video shows whats involved per one side.

I have mine cranked up to max, the CVs aren't at any more angle than a 2" lifted EA82. Your CVs will be fine. Hill Holder is a gimmick, learn how to drive stick the right way :-p I may add. The adjustment for the front struts is right under the spring perch. its an adjustable spring perch basically. Before: After: Adjustment for the rear torsion tube will be a 17mm bolt (Which probably won't turn as its rusted solid) The bolt is right in the center on the "A" style casting. There is a rubber plug under the rear seat which you can pop out and get to the bolt via the hole.

Bravo, the paint turned out good!

PM'ed ya. So this is what I now have. I removed the Outback seat brackets, and am left with the seat frame. The driver side is a Adjustable hight seat (Left) so the frame is a little different than the passenger side (Right) What I am going to do or am thinking of doing, is get some flat stock steel, Maybe 1/8" or a little thicker. Cut it out into the same shape of the Outback seat framing, Drill 4 holes to mount it, using the original welded nuts. Then, drill holes so I can mount the GL seal rails onto the steel plate (Adaptor plate if you will) Everything will be marked and drilled before mounting. And done! The drivers seat will still be adjustable and look factory. What gauge steel should I use? I want it solid. They are in excellent condition, and for $20 it was a deal. Just need to give them a good cleaning.

Yeah, we'll see how the next one is. better work! So I tried swapping in the Outback seats today, I am going to use the original GL tracks. Heres the rub, The Outback seat base/frame is 1" wider than the GL, so I need to make a steel plate to bolt onto the frame, than drill holes so the GL tracks will bolt up to that. The Outback seats are a tight fit between the center console and Door Pillar, but I love how they feel, very firm. Anyone have photos of EJ seats in an EA81 chassis?

Check this BS out. I got the New A1 Cardone Disty today, put it in and *Crank crank crank, nothing* Triple checked TDC (Compression stroke) and Alinement marks. Reinstalled again, same thing. I put the old one back in, fired right up. I have zero power coming from the pickup on the new one. Called Rockauto, shipped it back via Fedex and should have another one later this week. What BS.

Please, employ me as well. I can work your Mid-west office/warehouse

I was looking at the seat brackets on the Outback seats, I will need to mod them or reshape them to work with the original mounting holes, unless I want to make new ones. Anyone have a picture of new gen seats in an EA82 car? Just for eye candy... My disty will be hear tomorrow, and I will probably drop it in then.

So I picked up a set of heated Outback seats from a '96. Blue and Gray in nice shape, might retro fit these into the GL sometime or something. I got the switches and everything.

Yeah I'll check it anyway, I'm gonna probably keep the whole original disty and see about having it rebuilt sometime, TomR linked me to a company who does it, Philbin(something) About $70 to have it rebuilt I guess.

Shirts look good Scott!

Ordered the A-1 Cardone Disty from Rockauto for $133 shipped with 5% discount and 2-day shipping. Awesome! Maybe my car will finally run correctly.

The spring perch is welded obviously, so thats really not an option unless you want to cut and weld (Which may boil the damper fluid) You might be able to retro fit different model Subaru struts in there to lower the front, I want to say 2WD struts might lower it (Don't quote me on that) The rear torsion tube is also adjustable, there is one large bolt (17mm) on top of the center of the tube. PB Blaster is your friend!

If you order you goods from Rockauto, we can bombard them with invoices for old gen parts today Ha! (Gonna order the disty from them and save $100 vs a parts house price) Have you ran Seaform through the booster yet? Might yield something.

That turned out perfect.

OCD, those are the spring perch adjustment bolts (Adjustable ride hight) If you were to buy new struts for an EA81 car, you will be getting ones that are not adjustable but are pre adjusted to sit at the factory max hight. So no, KYBs will not have those bolts. This is what they look like before and after adjustment.