TheLoyale

Is there a way to inspect the clutch disc without really doing anything? I would like a visual of it, as I was thinking about taking the car to a show about 14 miles from me in the coming weeks. I don't want to end up without a clutch though lol.

Mom always told me to sit up straight, she said it was good posterior.

Slowly by surely is better than nothing at all! Like Christmas, I know its coming SOMETIME! :-p I need to get another RX style grill, so I can send you one.

You know what I am so tired of on this board, everytime you see a for sale thread, it is someone from the PNW, and they never want to ship anything (Local Only) they have an over abundance of this stuff, and they never want to ship it to us in the Mid-west, which is why they HAVE an over abundance of the stuff. I can't get over how many sets of 15" Pugs I've seen get passed around in WA/OR, I'd like to have a nice set of Pugs sometime, but its kinda hard when the locals snatch them up and the seller does not want to take the effort to ship them. Yet I am willing to ship everything to wherever, hmm.... And another thing, everytime I do sell something, it goes to someone in the PNW. Why are you buying from someone in the Mid-west, when you can walk down the street and pick 4x as many parts as I'm selling? Folks in the PNW who are NOT willing to ship, should have their own for sale section, so the locals can converse amongst their selfs without getting our hopes up in the rust belt. Rant over...

Here is the temp exhaust I made with what I had. The Header was cracked in several spots (I started thinking it was a Borla Ha!) So I patched it all up with some 18ga I had, I than cut the mid-pipe, and used only the section I wanted, and then stuck a length of tubing on the rear of that. I cut the tube so I could put a 45* bend in it, as I wanted it to point down. Worked good I think! New-age Darth Vador. These are not the correct gaskets, I think these might be for EJ, but I hogged out the holes and made them work. Booyaa.

That Mirror is awesome. I heard someone said the wiring is a PITA, but its pretty cool! Is it also Auto-dimming?

Tom, thanks for the rundown. As most things, they are easier than they sound (Like EA82 timing belt procedure!) My Dad knows electrical, I can wire stuff in the right way and have it work correctly, but some stuff is just *Buzz, over my head* I'm more of a visual person than being told how to do something. Lol, I dunno if the wagon will make the 6hr drive at its currant state Haha!! Status update, I decided, since I have almost no money right now, that I might as well try and work with what I do have. So I am taking the original mid-pipe, I patched where it had cracked and rotted holes, and I also cut the pipe into sections (Removed the crumbling flange) so now I have a Straight pipe with Resonator that is about half as long as the original midpipe. I am going to weld it directly to the Cat tomorrow and then I will add a turn-down pipe so it blows towards the ground vs straight back. I am guessing it will end somewhere right in the center of the car. Once I see how it all sits, I will then see if/how I want to run it out away from the body. This is only temp until I can afford to buy a stick of 1-7/8" and some 90s. My goal right now is to add some back pressure and make it sound a little better, maybe it will run a little better afterwards!

I agree that sounds like a good idea. Ok just for the sake of conversation, if I were to do this, I think I understand how to wire it. I would Have a lead come from the batt, to a Relay. Whatever # Then have the Positive leads from the original High-beam wiring (Tie both together) and have that hook to the relay. Whatever # Then run a lead from the relay to the new lights. I'm forgetting what to do with the original ground though..? Basically, hook the lights up, like I did with the Hella Supertones. I tapped into the original horn wiring, ran that to the relay, then ran a lead from the batt, I then ran a new + lead from the relay to the horns. And grounded the horns to the chassis. Am I on the right track, or no?

I also have found this thread kinda interesting to read. http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/433027-faqs-halogens-v-hids.html SO as I said before, I have an idea so I can run HIDs in my low-beams and High watt bulbs in my High-beams. What I'm thinking to do. Since the new clear housings I bought support H4 bulbs, I can get an HID kit for H4, problem solved there. Now for the high-beams, since nobody makes a halogen bulb with 2 pins (Except the H7) which is very small. I am going to try and retro fit 9005 or 9006 bulbs into my housings, Since both 9005 and 9006 bulbs are single filament and 2 pin, I am thinking of wiring in a 9005/9006 connector in place of the factory highbeam connector so the bulbs with clip right in. As for making the bulbs work with the housings I have, we'll, I'll have to look more closely into that and see what I come up with. Ultimately, I want to have 5000k HIDs for the Low-beam headlights, and a 100w Halogen bulb for my High-beams. I have this same setup on the Landcruiser, and it lights up everything with all 4 on. I love it.

Guess what. I went to Wal-mart and bought new sealed beam headlights H4656 and H4651. Put them in, and everything works correctly! I'm such a dum6ass. Although, now my hopes of running HIDs in this car have been shattered. But really, I do have another idea for running HIDs in this car at a later date.

You could probably get the correct rubber corner from someone on here. Check the For Sale section or post a Wanted ad for one. I actually could have gotten you one from an '82 Hatch in Wadsworth, IL. But the car has been crushed now, boo! Welcome to the board and lets see some more pics of that hatch! Amazing that its not rotted out being a IL car. -Tom

WOW, nothing eh.

Yes the 947 is a little darker. Nice clean Loyale man!

Ok, that makes sense. So would any 2 pin bulb work, electrically? Like this H7.

*Wishing I still had the stock sealed beams to toss in and see if that solves it* I dunno where I put them, perhaps they got tossed by mistake.

OK, so. I wonder if this is human error and has something to do with running incorrect bulbs. Because, I took a normal sealed beam 35w 3 terminal lamp and plugged it into one of the low beam connectors, Both low beams are on, and both high beams are just barley lit, but high beams then come one when I use the flash. Right now, I am using the bulbs that came with the new lamps. All four bulbs are 3 terminal, which are H4 style. So I would need to place an H7 bulb where the two original High-beams would go and maybe it would work correctly.

Something I was wondering. The original headlights used two different bulbs. The outer headlights had 3 terminals, while the inner bulbs had 2 terminals. Why would the outers have 3? I don't think they are dual filaments? Shouldn't both sets of lights just be single filament bulbs?

I am pretty sure the lights acted the same way even with the original seal beam lights. I really wish I could remember, but I will also check this out and see what I find.

Yep they are stock replacements, they use the same bulb style connectors, but the bulbs are removable on these vs sealed beam. So its a halogen bulb inside a 4x6 housing.

What new lights? I just changed the headlights, and they plug in to the original connectors.

Ok, So I've looked at the wiring diagrams in the FSM and have located the Headlight Relay in the diagrams. But where is it on the car? I really don't feel like untapping the wire looms to track down and follow the wires. So simple question, where should the relay be on the Wagon? Mick mentioned to me, that the backing plates of the lights could be grounding out on the light buckets. I checked that out, and nope, no the problem either. Good idea though.

Anyway, I put in a new alt today. Volt gauge is steady on 14v, awesome!

I figured out what stadium I saw while coming back on the Dan Ryan expy. It was the U.S Cellular stadium. I really have to go to Chicago sometime and drive around, see the sights and such, its awesome!

So, ok. I put that dimmer switch/high beam switch back in, cause I don' think that is the issue either. I than started trying to find the High-beam relay, I hear nothing anywhere (Unlike your Brat Tom) I don't have a relay on the strut tower like yours, the only relay I have in the engine bay is for the Cooling fan so the FSM says. So, I looked at the Wiring diagram in the 1983 FSM. It shows Fuseable Link #1 runs to the Headlights and High-beam, so I pulled that link, and the lights went out. So I guess now I will follow that wire the best I can to try and find the relay. (?) Tom, I don't even know how I would check continuity on if I had lost ground between the batt and dimmer switch, its a hay stack lol. And Wiring if not my strongest skill, I can wire stuff in and can figure most stuff out, but I ingeneral hate vehicle wiring (Too much in too small'o space) house wiring isn't as bad. For the ease of time, does anyone know where the Headlamp relay should be on an '83 Wagon? Brat seems to be different, so I dunno if wagon/sedan would share the same layout?

So, TomR mentioned that this switch assembly could be the cause of my funky headlights. So I removed it and looked at the copper contacts on the rear of the circuit board and the solder points, everything "looks" fine, but how would i be able to tell if this is the problem? In Low-beam mode. Low-Beam mode High-Beam Flash mode. Low-beam. High-beam switched to ON. The terminals. What is this Relay for? I found it under the dash not screwed to anything, I may have unscrewed it when I removed the Cruise.