TheLoyale

The EGR with the pipe on it is the original EGR, I am going to swap on an EA82 EGR that Tom gave me (It only has the vac line out the top)

Ah! So that is what the big black one-way valve is. Yes I removed everything for that, and will have to use the EGR Tom sent me. What does an Ani-afterburn valve do? The carb has a dieseling solenoid, so what the AAV do? TomR said I can possibly take the Hitachi down to basics, I would like to do this for simplicity. Tom, That section of rubber hose by the EGR turned to mooshy, cracked, ripped crap. I wonder if that was my vac leak (sarcastic)

OMG do I hate pipe ODs and IDs when buying pipe. I always phuck that up and nothing ever works.

Probably a return or Vent tube.

Huh, looked through some old posts in this thread. I bought this car on Sunday 2/26, so the 26th of this month with be 3 months of ownership! :-p This car sure is a Journey within its self. If the elderly gentleman I bought this car from, could see it now.

I think that pipe is part of the PCV system, I don't have a good picture of that area before I removed the intake, and now I'm forgotten. Guess we'll see where it plays out once I start hooking everything up. I will say, I very much dislike all of these vac lines. It is such a disaster (And people think an FI EA82 has vac lines) HA! this motor is worse then a Turbo EJ22

Typo on the w132 btw Anyway, yeah that looks really nice! Diesel too, wow. Can't really beat the old Mercedes. Personal favorite is the w123 Sedans, and the 450SEL 6.9! Ture Paowa!

The Haynes 1600-1800 manual isn't to bad for the EA82 cars. Also, see if you can find this book: http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Coupes-Sedans-1985-96-Chiltons/dp/0801987970 I have it, and it is very good and detailed. Lots of wiring schematics, exploded views and break-downs. There are also PDF versions of the 1987 GL FSM (Factory Service Manual) floating around, which will apply to your car. And are a major help Cheers, -Tom

Yep any all of these apply to the Loyale as well. 1988-94 SPFI EA82s are all the same -- 1988 and Later Models With Single-Point Fuel Injection -- CODE PROBABLE CAUSE 11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 12 Starter Switch or Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit 14 Fuel Injector - Abnormal Output 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit 23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit 24 Air Control Valve or Circuit 31 Throttle Sensor or Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit 35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit 42 Idle Switch or Circuit 45 Kick-Down (Detent) Relay or Circuit 51 Neutral Switch Continuously in the On Position 55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit 61 Parking Switch or Circuit

I prefer that bumper, keeps it more factory, with JDM flare throughout! Plus the added bit of chrome really finishes it off. Is that a 230/w132 next to it?

I got the new Intake from TomR today! Thank you!! Only problem I have is, I can no get this plug out. I put some pretty good force on it, and it didn't give anything in return. Hmmm. If I don't get this out, I can't put this other thing on. This goes to the Carb, Choke IIRC. I don't think I can leave this off? I bet this controls the choke? If I run a Weber DGEV, do I need this?

This is a good possibility. With the car on the ground, turn the steering lock to lock, that will make everything settle down to where it should be. If you still have wild camber after that, then yep, swap the blocks around. You will have a little positive camber anyway, I know mine does, you can see it more with larger tires.

You have the sides backwards. Put the Driver side on the Passenger and the Passenger side on the Driver side Or, since you have an EA81 chassis. The lift blocks are oval, right? Just spin them around 180* and rebolt them up, that should solve it.

This must be the update everyone wants to see.

I had the idea of running EJ cooling fans on this vs the original. Will both of them fit on the EA81 radiator? I haven't got two laying around to mock up.

So I did as you said, I actually used the original flange, since it still seats into the plug/fitting. So it should be good to go now. I will be making my own header at some point soon, so I will probably remove this spacer blocks then. I can't wait to hear what an UEL header does to a 1781cc!

Looking at both Calipers, it looks as if those would swap between models, and work with the EA82 bracket. The distance between the two slide pins looks the same. So perhaps the only real difference is indeed the bracket.

Ah, gotcha. I'm not sure about the Brat Caliper working on the EA82 Bracket. I have both demonstrations outside, and will take a gander of them both. What Rotors are you using? Brat or EA82? The EA82 rotors are about 1/2" larger in diameter, so the Brat caliper might not work anyway. I will check asap.

EA81 Calipers/brackets are different (Bigger) than the EA82 Calipers. So if you are trying to run your original EA81 wheels, they won't clear the caliper. What issue are you running in to?

I would drop the Trans xmember 3" and 3" on the Radius rods. This way you are keeping everything within the stock specs (Just 3" lower)

What the hell is this sticking out the side? Bottle opener?

Where would it leak to though? The weld is air tight, and nothing is going to get past the threads that I can fathom. So these Blocks aren't needed? I could remove them entirely and bolt the header right to the head! Thats an idea, I'm gonna make a custom UEL header anyway.

So, I removed that big one-way valve outta the engine bay, and plugged up the port on the exhaust for it. I truly did not see a reason for that thing, other then some hokey emissions item. I used one of the existing fittings that would secure the pipe to the Header and one-way valve. Air tight. Port, before plug: After plug: Engine bay with out that dumb plastic bubble and valve.

GOOD! I want this thing outta my engine bay ASAP!