TheLoyale

I was under the inpression the EJ rad was taller then the EA82? Perhaps this only applies to EA81 bodied cars.

Its up to you how much stuff you want to remove. I can always swap stuff from my intake. I'm not Weberizing it ATM, so I'll be using everything. Just want my car to run again Mick, that is the lower rad support, yeah? Looks slightly different than mine, probably because it is a 2WD?

A motor is only as good as you treat it. Over boost it, and drive it hard all the time, and the EJ22 will fail. A decently gone over EA82T, with low boost and driven like a normal car with the occasional open up, and you'll be fine. I truly don't see how the EA82T can be worse then the EA82, and mine has served me well for over 6 years now. Its not a performance engine, don't treat it as such. Although, these motors are happy with higher RPMs (Mine runs at 4,100rpm at 65mph) don't be shy with the RPMs

Is this Turbo Loyale a 4EAT?

You will also still be using the stock EA82 radiator, but you will have to make a custom Upper and lower hose, as the EA82 hose is smaller then the EJ22 hose. So, you'll have to do the old "Hose in a Hose" with clamps trick. You can not run the EJ22 radiator, will not fit in the Loyales radiator support. You will also need a custom engine pitch rod, the EA82 pitch rod is to long, the EJ22 pitch rod is to short.

I'm kinda surprised you could advance it that far with out pinging!

You'll want a 1990-95 Legacy for the EJ22 2.2 motor. It is a Duel port engine, which means you can run Headers on it, and it is still a Non-interference motor, single timing belt, pretty bullet proof. You'll need a Bellhousing adaptor, re-drilled fly wheel, complete cut-down engine wire harness, to do an EJ swap correctly, so it looks good, not just a spliced in mess, it'll take a little time. I personally would rebuild the EA82T, there isn't much for hop-ups though. Delta-cams Torque or 1000-grind.

I have this same issue with my '83 Hitachi EA81 Arrg!

Been bustin' ur hump I see. What are you using for a Carb gasket?

A huge load has been taken off my mind, all the intake bolts have came out with almost little effort. I didn't even use heat, Bravo! Some pictures: 5 of the bolts came all the way out, one is stuck in the manifold (Turns, but won't tap out) I'll work it a little more and get it out. I will also wire wheel all the studs clean and use anti-seize for reinstall. Cleaned the valley and bellhousing up. I have bought a new PCV, I have Intake gaskets and V-belts on order, I will be buying all different size hoses to replace every hose. I am also going to replace the heater core hoses. When I get the new intake, I will be painting it the same Pontiac blue as the air cleaner and Valve covers.

I'm thinking if you were to lower it anymore, it'll hit the Electric choke. ?

You'll want both cooling fans on the EJs, They both come on at the same time to cool the engine. It would also be rather tight on the back of the radiator (Might hit a pulley) and it probably won't clear the grill on most newer Subarus (I couldn't even stick small driving lights behind the grill on my Outback. Plus, who wants to run more plumbing then you need to? Its on top for a reason, simplicity.

A Scoop is going to push air into the intercooler. Where else are you gonna put it? There is no room on the WRXs for one in the front without looking like a Tuner.

Actually! When I bought the car, it was a cold night. I had the heat on Hot with fan speed about 1 or 2. It felt really warm in the cabin and the temp gauge was rock steady. Once (If ever) I get another intake swapped on and my new genuine thermo in with new coolant, we should have no worries! I can't wait to drive the "Ski wagon" in winter! (If I ever get that far...)

And in other news, Dinosaur farts are among the other hot topics of the news today. http://search.yahoo.com/search?cs=bz&p=Dinosaur%20gas&fr=fp-tts-504&fr2=ps

Does anyone have a solid date/place/time for Don Miller? I heard it was going to be June 10th, location was sketchy as was time frame. Might only be bringing the EA82 Gotta claim my trophy with the EA82 for the 3rd year in a row

Where do these intake bolts like to break off? Up by the head or lower, where the threads start? I have been soaking the bolts since last week, with PB and DeepCreep, so far, the 3 that I can get to without disassembling anything, only one broke loose and turns nicely, the other two, don't feel like they want to move, if I put any more torque on them, something might break. I am thinking, that if the heads break off, I can still grab the shank with a locking pliers and remove the stubs that way, once the intake is off. Is there something else I could soak the bolts down with? PB and Deepcreep are the best I have, Yield was great stuff, but don't have anymore.

I was actually looking at one of those NOS molded plastic covers on ebay. It was about $20. Maybe fabricating one up would be the better route, plus being sheet steel. Reason I ask about cold starting it, my dad said his Brother had similar air filters on his 427 '69 Impala (2-fours, Cam, Heads, Headers ect) and had hard times starting in the winter. I, having never looked at carbs till now (Except small engines) don't know what to expect from them. Fuel Injection was the era I grew up in

Cool! Yeah I'm just gonna get the kit. At least it comes with everything I need for the EA81. The only thing I'm not sure about is the exposed air cleaner setup. How does this effect extreme cold starts? Theres no heat riser, and the filter is wide open, more exposed to water spray and such. I read that you can't really use the EA81 air intake mod unless you have a lifted rig with a dropped motor. Just want to make sure my car will start when its -20* and blowing snow

My question is, how hard is the engine to start in the cold with that chrome air cleaner and no heat riser?

Anybody know what bolt pattern the Fiat 500 uses?