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TheLoyale

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Everything posted by TheLoyale

  1. TheLoyale
    Its been sitting back in the garage until I can get the stuff moved outta there to finish working on the car. Everything is at a Stalemate.
  2. TheLoyale
    I remembered hearing something about not using Stainless with Aluminum. I wonder how long it would take to become a issue. I did the Skiwagon with Stainless (Jamie would have to report how its working) I really didn't want to run just zinc coated bolts (Or whatever standard bolts are coated with) any ideas on another plating?
  3. TheLoyale
    I hope it works out just as good for you If you have any questions feel free to ask So, since I was working on rebuilding the Hitachi (Until I broke a spring and the Needle Valve seat for the Float got stuck) I figured what a better time to do intake gaskets as well, along with clean up the top of the motor. I'm going to also reseal and paint the fill tube, Dipstick tube, and Valve covers. I have the Fel-Pro seal set ready to go! So, I sand blasted the Intake with glass beads to clean it up nicely. I am also going to paint it with Cherry Blossom Red (STi color) And replace all bolts with Stainless for the reassemble. I also need to make a EGR Block off plate, and I also remove the EGR tube. I am using Brass plugs to block off the ports in the Intake and Head for the EGR tube. Watts LFA-159 is the number for the plug.
  4. TheLoyale
    Just like the Transfer-case in 90s Rams, it runs ATF instead of gear oil. but I wonder how the Sycros are gonna like ATF in the Subie trans.
  5. TheLoyale
    This is horrible! I am sorry that someone intentionally poured water in your gear box, while at a friends establishment! I really hope that the bearings and gears haven't suffered too much damage, hopefully with a flush and some new gear oil, it will at least be a good as it was prior. Still can't believe someone would do such a thing (Well, I can believe people can be so careless) but I'm just surprised it happened to you If there is anything I can do, let me know! I will try me best to help you my friend. -Tom
  6. TheLoyale
    Yep, just like dude said. I went with the big bolt and some washers in the center (So I could turn the hub as needed. I too have a slotted deck on my drill press, so it worked great. Keep in mind, what I did to make sure each hole was perfectly lined up, I bolted the hub to a spare 6-lug wheel, stuck a 9/16" drill bit thru each lug hole and started drilling with a hand drill, so the bit wouldn't wonder. It makes a nice concaved area to line up with the drill press. Worked like a Charm!
  7. TheLoyale
  8. TheLoyale
    We are The Subaru Alliance! ____________
  9. TheLoyale
    Trashwagon10 makes a triumphant return to MilesFox! We rescued the car yesterday from a kid who bought it in need of a car to get him to/from school. The outer bearing cage on the passenger side axle cracked and the axle pulled out of the cup, leaving the car unmovable under its own power. So it was up for sale once again, we tow bar'ed it back to the house with Safariwagon-II and swapped axles in 20min and was able to drive it to its final destination! Trashwagon back on the scene! Trashwagon10 started with us, left for a while and came back! Full Circle kinda deal!
  10. TheLoyale
    I really need to give credit to all the 32/36 hate posts from Gerard in Aus. He is very correct, my old Hitachi is pretty wonderful all cleaned up and simplified. I don't think I would trade this for a Weber any day. Unless it was an IDF. Just a word to others, don't give up on the Hitachi right away. Don't fall for the typical Weber 32/36 swap, I've done one, and wasn't happy with the genuine 32/36 DGEV. KEEP YOUR HITACHI!
  11. TheLoyale
    My Yonezawa Diapet 1/40 Scale Hardtop Leones!
  12. TheLoyale
    Its not 100% reversible Lol. I'm sure you either drilled holes in the fenders to mount the extensions, and the plasti-dip will and does etch paint over time. Either way, the factory original paint will not be the same if you reverse the actions, just food for thought. That said, I don't have any beef with what your doing, its your car. The flares could be something that flow a little better, it would add to the vehicle and not take away from it. These just look too Mega wing, fart can AE85 Corolla. Perhaps getting another set of front fenders and going with a true custom wide body flare may flow better. This way you can mod some extra fenders and leave the originals in tacked. (The rear fender flares would be a little harder to get away with if you wanted to keep it reversible) Good luck on finding a rear sway bar and associated hardware. I cannot remember if the rear trailing arms need to come from the rear swap bar doner as well. -Tom
  13. TheLoyale
    We need someone to sponsor this idea. There is nothing else like it on the market. I'm sure the Datsun guys would like it as well.
  14. TheLoyale
    Yeah man, DONT MAKE MY MISTAKE, and sell out of it. I did and I wish I never did. But now since its so far away and I have the hardtop now, I seriously just can't get it again. If you have a place to stick it, inside. let it sit until you're ready for it. Its not gonna rust away if its not sitting in tall grass, plus 3/4 of the metal I put into it was Stainless, so only the welds and surrounding metal will rust (If it hasn't already) Keep it man...
  15. TheLoyale
    Thank you for the clarification! Much appreciated
  16. TheLoyale
    Here it is....
  17. TheLoyale
    I'm seen an ARB bumper modded to work on an Loyale. Bryan Dudus did it. Not sure what his ID is on here. Actually looks really good (Just adds a lot more weight and protection to the front)
  18. TheLoyale
    Got both of the rear disk hub plates blaster and primed between the showers. Here a few pics of before and after. Once the primer sets for a few days (Humidity) then I will spray them with Duple-Color trucked coating....
  19. TheLoyale
    I don't really understand the Logic behind having on white/clear and the other red (I am assuming the red portion lights up with the reverse lights) Maybe someone from Europe can shine some light on what the purpose of that is. Thank you JesZek for the kind comment
  20. TheLoyale
    Thank you!. JesZek, actually, I am not too keen on the Euro style tail lights, I don't understand the one white, one red reverse lights found on a lot of German vehicles. Anyhoo, Finally finished the front cab corner reconstruction/rust repair on the driver side. have to fix rust and also change the design to allow enough room for the 30" tires. Now I need to copy this over to the other side along with finish all the other rust repair...
  21. TheLoyale
    Best thing to do is get MOOG springs for the front. Auto Tempo springs can handle 700+lbs per spring. That will help deal with the extra weight of a V8, Aluminum or not, its still gonna add weight. Struts should be fine if you get your self a new set of KYBs. Just my thoughts
  22. TheLoyale
    Here is a complete post with updated photos of a 100% de-smogged EA81 Hitachi. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147986-my-83-gl-coupe-hardtop-sss/?p=1280249
  23. TheLoyale
    By removing all of the emissions items, including the canister and all vac lines that aren't needed. It has really improved the engine. Runs smoother and has a little more getty up. It really makes this old Hitachi shine!
  24. TheLoyale
    Oh, maybe thats the Landcruiser master switch (Which is 100x worse to take apart) You know Toyota, they like making things more complex then they need to be haha. Glad you got the switch sorted. It should help. I wouldn't doubt that the motors are also getting dry and are slow, mine are and every other Loyale I've been in has slow windows. Incase you decide to remove the motors and regrease them, DON'T! It is a royal PITA to get the armature bushes back in and slide the armature back over them (Rear wiper motor is the same way lol)
  25. TheLoyale
    Oh, you'd probably been keen to know when this car was made, GM owned stock in Fuji Heavy Industries/Subaru. You can definitely feel General Motors in the mid/late 90s Subarus thats for sure.
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