TheLoyale

SUBARU BADGE OF OWNERSHIP CLICK ME.

Eh, I'm not sure about that piece either. The bases of street signs aren't made from hardened steel. You could go with 1/4" if you are worried about strength.

There are no belts on the EA81. I know how to time any EA82/ER27 and tons of EJs.. Done many in six years.

You need a set of these now! Would look cool on an all Black EA82!

I finally got the paint on the wheels to blister up and removable. Now, I need to hit it with the wire wheel and then prime and paint. Also, where can I get a new Oil pressure sender? Mine is dripping oil out of the grommet. I found this one for $50!! WTF, isn't this a $10 part? http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/replacement/wizard.asp?year=1983&make=SU&model=ALL-4WD-002&category=P&part=Oil+Pressure+Sender

I was going to do this on my Legacy back in the day, but the 1st and 2nd gen Legacys use a different thread pitch on the cap. How did you do it with the EA82 cap?

How and why are people changing their IDs now? You're like the 5th person I've seen do this.

1/8" steel 2x2 square stock (If you want a 2" lift) 1/8" should take the abuse.

https://www.badgeofownership.com/Order.aspx

What the...! Wow, is this currant from their website or?

I suppose it could, but I really wouldn't want to. Let alone try and get them out of the engine bay! The EA82 is much easier to get at stuff. Either way, I just spliced into the remaining line which was good. So it works

What is involved when putting the heads back on? Do you need to line up dots or something for the Cam gears to Crank? The engine bay looks nice, must have been a PITA to paint it with all that stuff in there? I'm gonna have to remove everything to do mine right.

This thread has now been submitted to the USRM.

This thread is about running 6x5.5 lug wheels on your 4x140 Subaru, by re-drilling your Hubs to the 6x5.5 patten commonly found on Toyota, Chevy, Nissan, Mitsubishi 6-lug wheels to name a few. Here we have a small compilation of (Re-Drill How-To's, Rim Center Bore/Backspacing/ Interchangeability) First off, Here are two good write-ups with photos on how to re-drill the Hubs for 6-Lug conversion. http://http://offroadingsubarus.com/6stud_conversion.html http://http://www.subarubrat.com/6lugconv.htm Drilling the Hubs You will need the following parts: 1. Eight more 1.25x12M thread wheel studs. (Found at any parts store) 2. At least one 6x5.5 lug wheel for marking new holes on the Hubs. 3. Center Punch/Transfer Punch. 4. 14mm or 9/16" Drill bit. 5. Also a smaller 6mm or 1/4" drill bit to start the hole is good. 6. Preferably a Drill press, but a normal Variable-Speed Electric Drill can work. 7. Plenty of oil to lubricate the drill bit. 8. Angle Grinder with Grinding or Flapper Disc to smooth bures. 9. A big Hammer and/or Bench Vise. 10. And preferably a chunk of hard wood for the Drill bit to go through. 11. And of course, all the parts to remove the hubs from the car. You will start with your Stock 4x140 wheel hub. Grab yourself a Hammer and then a Block of wood. Place something under the hub next to the stud you want to remove, but not under the stud. Use the chunk of wood between the stud and the hammer to stop the hammer Mushrooming over the threads. Continue to hit it till it puts out. Or if you have an old Lug nut you don't like, put that over the stud, and tap on that. It won't wreck the threads. You want to remove the two studs that are directly across from one another. Now you will need the 6-Lug wheel. With the two remaining studs in your Subaru's hub, bolt it to the 6-lug wheel like you would if it was on a car. Now you should be able to see exactly where you need the new holes. Should look something like this: Line the Transfer punch up as close as you can get it to the center of the hole in the wheel. Transfer Punch Link: A transfer punch will easily and inexpensively transfer the center of the hole to the proper point on the wheel hub. Tip: Try looking at it from other angles to see if it really is centered. Strike the punch with a Hammer, it may bounce and put a smaller mark not directly in the center, make sure the mark is centered before drilling. Repeat 4 more times per Hub. Now take your 1/4" or 6mm drill-bit, take it slow until it bites and continue to drill. The center punch mark eliminates drifting the drill-bit may do while trying to drill the holes. (Alternatively, if you don't want to use the Line Punch, and have a 6-lug wheel you don't care about. Use that as you template. Leave the hub plate bolted to the wheel, use a power hand drill, with a drill bit which is just slightly smaller than the lug holes in the wheel, use the hand drill to bevel the area you want to drill. This will also prevent the bit from drifting and leave a perfect indentation to line up with the drill-press) Tip: When drilling the holes, if your using a power drill, make sure the drill is completely vertical, otherwise your studs will stick out all over the place and you'll never get the wheel on. If your using a drill press, you should have no problems at all. 9/16" Bit works perfect, just expect to weld the rear of the studs in place. Now that you have the 4 new holes drilled to 9/16" or 14mm, Grab your Angle Grinder and flatten the back of the hub where the new stud will go. This is to make the stud sit in place without rocking around (which causes wear and may lead to the stud splines failing.) Place the hub on something hard. Put the new stud in place. And tap the new stud in until flush and seated. It should look like the picture below now. Tip: Some folks like to add a bead of weld to each stud to keep them from walking around incase they do not tap in snuggly. Here is another picture showing the Stub seated flush agains the Hub, this is the Rear Drum. Repeat all steps until you have 6 Lugs per wheel hub, and you are finished! This is what it should look like: Front: Rear: Rear Disk: Now with Wheel Installed: _________________________________________________ Common 6x139.7 Wheels/Manufactures Chart:

I have now added the wheel chart to the first post, here it is also.

What type of coating do the Wagon wheels come with from the factory? Are they some type of thermo set coating or what? I sprayed one wheel down with Air-craft stripper and it had no effect on the coating, which was unexpected. WTF?

Just rolled over 122,000 lastnight! Now at 122,102. This is now the full-time DD.

I've never really heard rear axles click since they have DOJs on both ends vs a DOJ and CVJ. I bet the clicking is the front. If the rears are indeed clicking at low speeds in the parking lots, I would service them with new boots and grease (Kendall Super-Blu) since rear axles don't usually have a lot of stress on them and don't need to pivot and turn at the same time, they will last.

Nobody makes rear CV axles, that is why it is best to reboot the ones you have before damaging matter get into the joint and wear out. The dealer might be able to get you some remans, but they are gonna cost!

EMPI is pretty good, Rockauto has them. I think Thepartsbin.com has them too. You will need a 23 spline axle (25 spline are for Turbo models)

Got a new Radiator today, will have new upper and lower Molded hoses tomorrow morning. I ordered a new Thermostat and gasket from the dealer, $32 later and I will have it next thursday. Changed the oil today, replaced Fram filter with WIX, 10w-40 GTX, and a little MMO in the oil to clean and recondition. I also ran Seafoam in the Fuel, Carb and Brake Booster. I still have a slight cut out just off of idle..? Hmm. Perhaps I need to adjust the mixture screws until it revs up smoothly?

It just paints over it and somewhat seals it. The rust will continue unless you wire wheel it, convert it, and or cut it out.

Cool. Yeah, I finally have a complete list of 6x139.7 wheels from the most common vehicles. The only thing I don't have are the Backspacing data, But vehicle years/models with Rim sizes I do have. Gonna make a spread sheet style layout and then post an image of that when done. I am cleaning up and adding more info to the first post, in time, the first post will be found in the USRM section.

POR-15 Chassis Coat.

I agree you would want a Junk stove in the garage for this type of thing. It will ruin your $4,800 Kennmore Pro-Series Cooking range. I ordered a new Radiator for the GL today, I will have it tomorrow for $130, and its even for a MT!