TheLoyale

It tends to vary, My '92 Loyale is 1/92.

Nifty idea

The VIN tag lists it as 8/85 or something. It was sold as an '86, but was made in '85

Yes, that is MilesFoxs', I've seen this car a number of times in person and even rode in it.

O.C.D, lol. I don't have any experience with such, but I think you are on the right track. The backspacing looks correct, and I appreciate the schmatic.

I agree with this! I remember someone wanted to know what to look for and from what vehicles at the JY. I'll see what I can find for 6x5.5 (aka 6x139.7mm) specs, years and models.

Good! I will also add that. Edit: Added with Link.

That looks great! HVAC control canister? Paint looks very nice and thick!

I am not 100% about them being made as a 1985 model (Although they were indeed manufactured in 1985) MilesFox has one. As for the Rake of the windshield, I am pretty sure the 3-Doors/RXs have a different, less steep rake then the Wagons/Sedans. I've been told an RX mirror will not work on a Wagon/Sedan due to this. Anyone else?

I edited the first post, I am going to continue to edit it with further helpful information, need to take a break. Check it out!

You are only going to be removing a very fine .100 of an inch to make the boot slip over. It shouldn't hurt it any, but remember, they are gonna be hardend steel, and might be hard to grid. I supposed if I had no other option, I would also go that route.

Wow, no screwing around with a hack built one. That looks nice! Solid welds and 1/8" steel?

Ah, I didn't notice the flush mount blinkers on it at first. Although, I though '85-'86 front bumpers where shorter? Didn't stick out as much? Must be my eyes. As for the Mirrors, the 3-Door has a different rack to the front window, so I don't know if they did the "door mounted" mirror like on the wagons/sedans. Anyone else can confirm this? Still one hell of a nice Runabout if you ask me.

My thought exactly, All useful info would go into the first post, some of the preference posts could be left in the thread for others to decipher which options best suit them. The re-drill info is the same for any 6-lug wheel that uses 6x5.5 bolt pattern, so it doesn't have to be specified that it is only for Trailer wheels, as this would be the 6-lug conversion thread, I've never seen any other thread on here with the info needed. Compiling data thread if you would. Wilcox, a Sticky is a setting you can apply to any thread, so that it remains at the top the forum and will never need to be bumped (Like the EA81 Engine year there)

Little older then that. That 3-Door is an '85-'86. Has the Full Amber strip side lights. Looks to have an '87 Bumper though? Hmm.

Back in the 80s, 13" where pretty popular, and so where Baja style cars which ran such small tires. BFG and all tire manufactures used to make awesome tires for 13" rims. Now you can barely get anything good for 14"

If they are Moog, there is a plastic ring inside the lip of that boot. I could not get the boot over the BJ either. I decided to crack the plastic ring, and then it popped on nicely. Plus its not gonna move around or pop off once installed.

Personal Favorite! Wish this was Wallpaper quality! Love the H wheels with the Mud-Terrains!

That'll be cool. Don't Phuck them up

Very true to a lot of it. But most Ricers don't put this much effort into their rides. Perhaps blue would look nicer then TMNT green, but what ever. It looks pretty good in most aspects Does need some rims vs silver wheel caps!

The thread is indeed about 6-Lug trailer wheels, as they are cheap. It is also about proving that Trailer wheels have the Safety bead, so a tire shop will not have an issue mounting tires on them (At least mine won't) some places might still be picky. So then the discussion was, should the rim be re-drilled or the hub its self. In this case, I opt for re-drilling the hub, so you can run any 6x5.5-lug you want (Toyota, Chevy, Nissan) Backspacing and Offset are helpful when looking at other manufactures' wheels, Trailer wheels seem to have the correct backspacing for what I want, Toyota also seems to have the correct spacing. There are also links posted to "How-To Threads" on re-drilling to 6x5.5 which is nice. I think re-drilling is a better option then trying to track down expensive Pugs like I did once. Which is why I think a lot of newbies would be into this thread as an option. This was my intension when I made the thread, If it doesn't become a sticky, thats fine. I'm sure there is still enough interest to keep this thread on top for a while.

Air-craft stripper removed the paint, Then a steel Wire wheel at 3000rpm with heavy force removed all the pitting from the rust and made it all smooth again (Metal turned blue from the heat) then Ceramic Primer and Ceramic Pontiac blue (Dupli-Color)

What is the bead like on those wheels? take a picture perhaps?

You want the Ceramic base Paint and not just a "Color Match" big difference. As for baking it, I suppose if you put it in a oven no hotter then 300* it might do something. But this paint is make to harden while baking in the sun ect. Does not need excessive heat for awesome results. I plan on repainting the rest of the air cleaner assy, I already painted my new rust free Valve covers, and I might do the Oil pan when I pull the motor.

Wow, the guys in South America really do A LOT of body work, and looks very nice! What is MAIA?