TheLoyale

You'll probably be surprised by Subaru. they will never quit, thats for sure. Just keep in mind, The EJ25D that is in that Outback is a Quad-cam motor and is also an interference motor (So if the timing belt breaks, or is timed wrong if a new belt is installed, the valves will clash with the piston and you'll have bent valves on your hand. Also, the EJ25D is known for blowing HGs in higher milage, or if the Previous owner(s) overheated it for whatever reasoning. If you end up replacing the HGs get the genuine Subaru ones, they have improved the design since then. Also, if you end up getting the Fel-pro kit, there is a good chance they will be genuine gaskets (They will have the little Fuji Heavy Industries stamping on them) also factory seals should be NTN manufactured and most of the time Fel-pro will put those in their kits. First thing I would do is inspect the timing belt and probably replace it depending on mileage and if has been replaced once or not. preventative maintenance will keep this car alive past 300k. I have seen these motors apart well after 300k and you will still find the manufactures cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. Once thing to remember about Subarus, they are like Legos, you can put them together anyway you like. by that I mean, all 90s/2000s era Subarus share the same driveline (More or less) and everything can pretty much be swapped between models. Swapping driveline from newer Subarus into Subarus from the 70s-80s has become the new thing for us diehard Subaru folk Haha. Cheers and good luck with it! If you have any questions you have come to the right place! Feel free to give me a holler if you need anything. -Tom PS: I see you got the Limited version, fully loaded with heated leather, heated mirrors and the cold weather package.

I think thats just spray paint on the tires. Looks like someone had fun with primer, Gray walls, it adds class? Lol

Bought a '92 Loyale wagon that I am completely stripping to bare bones!

Tom R has some good information. I agree with the grounding issue, I've had my fair share of weird dash lights and tach/speedo flicking because of bad grounds and back feeding (From a failing Disty) If anything, add another ground from the motor to the engine bay, more ground can never hurt. The whole light thing with the turn signals is still kinda making me ponder. Because the light on the dash is only to indicate that the Parking brake is being used. The light serves no other purpose. But either way, let us know if you figure that out. As for the parts, I'm pretty sure it has the cargo cover. Once I get the car, I will look at it, and see what condition its in and clean it up and send you a photo, plus a photo of the wheels.

I am also glad my threads could help others, that is indeed the whole point!

Awesome! Sounds like you have a good handle on things so far. The red stripe looks good in there too! Yeah the tires do look tiny on these. Mainly because most of the time you can only find 165/75/13s (13" tires are becoming so hard to find, at least decent ones) 14s are getting hard too, but not as bad. I may have a set of 14" Alloy pugs up for grabs soon, would even come with a Steelie spare if you are interested in Alloy at all. They are a little rough (Not curb crashed, just pitted) but I need to take a closer look at them. They come with the chrome pug center caps and the special lugs. Right now they have 27" Grabbers mounted to them (Which are a little too big for a non lifted car (Unless you want to hack the hell out of it) :/ But I will also have a 2" lift up for grabs for the EA82s as well. Short story, I bought a friends '92 Loyale, and am gonna strip it all down and just junk whats left of the shell. I will have pretty much everything and anything off a Gray loyal with gray interior. it is EJ25 swapped, so I won't have any EA82 bits. Still have to get the car to my house and start tearing it down before I know what I'll have Jason (Bratman18) swears by having an LSD in the rear. I have yet to get one, since there is pretty much nothing around WI. Keep up the good work man! I'll be keen to see more

For rear struts. Go with KYB 341065 (Left and Right) These are gonna be the factory length and stroke, but KYB makes some good products and these will indeed improve drivability. If you are also looking for stiffer springs you can look up King springs from Aus, or look up MOOG CC248 springs. They are 86-89 Honda Accord front springs, but fit perfectly onto the rear struts. These will be some super heavy load springs (This is what I have on mine with a 6" lift) but if you cut a coil or two off the top of the spring, it will be less harsh, but an improvement over the possibly sagged out rear springs currently on it. Just some ideas

Wow, nice find! Interesting that its Black with the red strip on the moldings. I apologize I didn't see this thread sooner to help answer the questions you have already answered. As for the soft brake pedal, if it is still soft after bleeding them with the new wheel cylinder, its possible the master under the hood has failed. Mine is the same way, 3/4 of the way until the pedal actually gets firm. I am planning on replacing mine. I am pretty sure one from a 1st gen legacy can be retrofitted in place, but I will have to look that up again, its been a while. Pumping the brake pedal while running usually causes a little idle disturbance in most vehicles, because of the vacuum from the booster, no worries there. As for the windows. Inside the switches/master switch. There are copper contacts with carbon touch stones which over time get oxidized causing a poor connection, you can take the master switch apart and clean the contacts. Just be careful, they are a little tricky, and making sure the copper contacts are in right while reassembling is of most importance. I can't remember if the master switch also has small springs inside as well. The Turn signal making the brake light flash on the dash sounds like a short. Or someone tied something into the wrong wire (Trailer wiring etc.) Hope some of this helps you. If you have any more questions feel free to PM me -Tom

I put the stock cap back on, and drove it for a good distance today. Actually drove it to go by Another Loyale Also got a '84+/Brat/Turbo Grille from Greenley today! Much better.

Good info Tom, thank you I may go back to standard pressure cap (Just new) with this information. In other news, finally got a new Battery! Typical Farm&Fleet Platinum 7yr warranty. 730cca.

I guess I don't really understand cooling systems. :/ My idea on it is, you want pressure that doesn't drop, and you don't want the coolant seeping out, even into an overflow tank. What if the system keeps pushing the coolant out into the tank and then that over flows, you would be losing coolant that is unrecoverable. Also, I don't really understand the point of an overflow tank. During high pressure, coolant can escape into that tank, but once the pressure drops enough, the cap will seal off the fill neck/bypass hole, so it won't allow the system to suck from that tank. Does any of this sound like it holds any truth? So I wonder how bad having an extra 4lbs of force will be? If the electric cooling fan is doing its job, we should be ok?

I installed an overflow tank in the Skiwagon and am going to do the same with this car, I actually bought the same tank lol. Its off a Mazda 323 or something. Its a Dorman part now, so its under $20 on ebay.

you think thats why? I can't remember if the Skiwagon did this or not. Right now its not full to the top, its right at the top of the inner core thing, but it still pisses out once hot, more so when throttle is being applied. Now I am wondering if a higher pound cap is gonna be an issue as JesZek made mention of on Facebook. Hmm

Just put on a 19lb Mishimoto radiator cap, hopefully this will keep from opening up at running temp. If I would have left the other cap on it (15lb) I'd have no coolant left after a cruise down the freeway.

I will probably do it the light blue, I am going to add white pinstripe to it to dress it up!

Those temples are always awesome! Thank you for posting those photos and the links!

5spd pedal box reassembled and greased! Also working on clearancing the cab corners/rockers to allow room for the 30" tires under compression with full lock. I am looking a little bit of left foot room, but it shouldn't interfere with the Clutch pedal. I will also need to do the same thing on the passenger side.

Just received the NOS Black EA82 Hand Brake from a good friend in Honduras (JesZek) This is gonna be awesome in the Safariwagon! Also tore apart the 5spd Pedal Box to clean it all up regrease and paint everything, it is drying now, but will get an updated photo once I reassemble it!

Looking for color ideas for the Air Filter Box. I am going to clean it up real nice and respray it, question is, what color do I want to do it? My choices so far are: Gloss White, Gloss Light Blue (Factory), Gloss Dark Blue Navy, For the Gloss White, I was thinking of running some sort of Blue or Red Pin-stripe around the cover. If I did the air box light blue, I would run a white pin-stripe. Ideas please!

If you want a better product, which you can leave in the oil to help clean and add some protection, try using Marvel Mystery Oil. It is an additive which works with all oil types (You can put some of this in your Petrol as well) After you change you oil, I would add about half qt to the fresh oil (DO NOT OVER FILL OIL) and it will help clean out deposits and sludge from short trip driving.

Do not use any in the oil unless you have an extremely dirty motor. Just putting it thru the carb and in the fuel will be fine to clean out the air and fuel passages.

If you are gonna be dumping Seaform down the carb, yes you want to rev it so it'll suck it thru the system and not just bog it out. For normal running idle, 1000rpm is too high, 700-800rpm is best for normal idle running, this will reduce the likelihood of it dieseling when the ignition is cut off.

Their just 14" Peugeot 505 wheels from the 80s powder coated white with Uhtsu FP7000 185/60/14 tires.

Rear backing plates came in today! One step closer to a full rear disk swap! Thanks goes to bratman18 for sending me the backing plates!

Put the '82 4WD bumper on the '83 Hardtop! I've always liked how this bumper tucks in about 1.5" more than the stock one.