TheLoyale

I ordered a set of these, once I get them, I will make my decision if I'm to buy another set. http://www.ebay.com/itm/370548744787?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3242wt_1010

I also need one of those white clips that Angle adjusting screw threads into. I broke one. Does any auto store carry these in stock? Or do I really need to drive 20miles and get one from the junkyard?

$450 isn't to bad considering where you live, how scarce parts are, and the point you got the complete assembly. I paid $200 for Rockers and a Fuel tank, and I was up to $400 in final total after shipping, so don't feel bad Your old crossmember isn't to bad really, except for the crack, but that does look weldable (Possibly keep that as a spare for your self or someone else who needs one) Getting you old bolts out shouldn't be bad, they come out pretty easy even on very rusty cars, plus they are 17mm and aren't lucky to break. Cheers.

Has anyone ran Crystal clear headlights on their GL? I'd like to see a picture if so.

Where does one get the accent bar for the bumper?

Headlight buckets. Before: After: Assembled: I do need to get 4 matching headlights though, these are just temp.

Not unless you want your whole strut and knuckle to be pushed into the cab wall.

Very cool James, if you do pick up the whole car, or just parts, I will be going to Tom Redmonds place some weekend in July, So if the fenders or anything like that is good, I could possibly pick them up by then!

Its very possible. The wheel bearing could be damaged though, When you are putting pressure on the wheel, is it pushing everything together, when you are letting off the pressure by turning the other way, the wheel is being pulled outwards which would cause a more noticable knock.

Make sure you apply a little grease to it when you put it in, makes for easier removal next time and keeps rust down.

Holy balls, I've never seen a Cone washer damaged like that. Indeed, time for a new one!

Slowly, but surely. Keep it up

That thing looks pretty decent! You're luck that your girl would think an Old subaru is a good present, she is one of the very few.. Keep up the good work on the car! -Tom

High-Solids epoxy paint is at least 65 percent solid components, such as binders, pigments and additives. The solids are mixed with a solvent as a base. Because the solvent content of high-solids epoxy is low, its viscosity is three to four times greater than in other paints. The paint can be thinned by applying heat, pressure or a combination of the two. Epoxy paint forms an adhesive coating that is strong and resistant to the elements. High-solids epoxy paints were developed as primers that need little surface preparation. Their ability to cover up rust and multiple layers of old paint makes them a popular choice when painting tarnished metal or surfaces with paint buildup. High-solids epoxies also protect against corrosion, and they do not contain lead. The paints can be applied in several layers depending on the degree of coverage necessary. I am familiar with High-Soild compounds as I use Floor wax with the same ability, they are very durable and last longer to muddy boots and chairs wilth rollers, ect.

The black paint is a High solid base enamel (Made for Commercial/Industrial use) It feels really nice once it sets, thick and smooth. Soaks in real well and coats amazingly.

I am feeling like this is finally going to happen, I felt good once I got the rear trailing tube back on and the fact I now have the tank. Feels like its all coming together! Thank you.

Batin the hatches people! Oh my!!

Is that an I4 or I6? Kinda sounds like an Inline-6.

Cleaned up and repainted the Front support/structure with Gloss High solids. When I do the clutch, I will then paint the entire engine bay gloss black. I also got my tank today! Cleaned it up a bit, and then coated that with High solids. I then coated it with Undercoating to protect that paint. I also repainted the mirrors and used Stainless Allen Head screws. Also finally got the rear tube back up (That was fun) This is the Fuel pump bracket, Coated with High solids and Stainless bolts.

The EA82 is also an OHC engine, a OHV Pushrod motor is usually Interference, if I'm not mistaken.

Agreed.

Damn, 110amp! You could run a ton of Rally lights on that beast $500 is pretty fair for a complete exhaust. I am gonna try making my own custom exhaust for the GL at some point (Sure beats buying new stock pipes)

Looks real good in motion, sounds good too! I hear an Alt whine? But the motor has a decent sound. Well done

I have that same Midland CB! Weber looks good. My rig has 27" Bighorns and is a 3AT, and I still get great fuel milage. I can also run 80mph on the interstate at about 4500rpm, To give you an idea, I can drive about 120 miles on the freeway pushing the motor hard and only use 1/4 tank of fuel. Cheers, -Tom

Yes, that would be the key words.