TheLoyale

2" SJR Lift kit, with 14" Peugeot wheels and 27" Bighorns. Everything else is stock

Picked up a Factory Glove box light and switch out of an '82 Hatch.

Is that SubaruCity? They told me '85 when I went there in serach of an '83 Fuel Tank. It could be a dealer thing, but I think SOAs datebase is '85 and newer.

I usually buy Fel-Pro gaskets and seals, as a lot of times they are genuine seals. Head gaskets for one, are stamped with the Fuji logo so I've found. NAPA should be able to order you a seal kit (Top end and Bottom end) I think Rockauto.com has them as well. Cheers.

I take it to some old dude, he has seen all the vehicle builds and tire combos I run. So I don't think he'll have an issue. Just mount the tire, if the wheels fall off while I'm driving, its my problem

Funny you should say that about the Alt, I was suspecting it to fail at some point, the armature was starting to wine before I did the trans swap. I don't understand the MPG, that car was always funky even when it sported factory exhaust and proper size wheels. Great there are no oil leaks! Guess I sealed everything good.

These are the tires I'm thinking of running on the wheels. Mel Gibson looks thrilled about it!

How come no one welds up the other un-unsed holes? I plan on doing it. Just need a chunk of Brass I can place behind the hole and then fill with weld, then grind smooth. Problems with this? I don't see any. :cool:

I agree with trying other old Subaru keys. I have a wad (I mean a WAD) of old Subaru keys I keep taking from the Junkyard, so far, 5 of them work in my Loyale (One came from a '93 Impreza L) My original Legacy key worked in my buddies car, and so did a few others I had. Amazing. No subaru is safe Yes, the dealer can get you a key cut from your VIN, BUT Subaru can only use VINs dating from 1985 and newer so my dealer told me.

New Pioneer with USB and MP3/WMA with 4-Runner cubby. Looks factory! And sounds great. Speaker upgrade time... 8 Speakers plus the factory sub. Gonna be spending some money on that.

If you have a junkyard with old Subarus' readily available, then go for it. Although, you may not know the condition of that hub either. But indeed, I did replaced the entire front knuckled on my Legacy after it got hit. I didn't want to press bearings. I bought a used hub for $98 from a "Pull their own" lot. I had my new knuckle in, in about 30min (Even had a decent Balljoint in it)

Ha, you would think. But in the real world, the dealer most likely will over look a lot of things (Not bashing anyone who does work as a Service tech) but we all know there are techs at the dealer who will glance at stuff without deeper inspection, and then the non-mechanically inclined owner doesn't understand why their Subaru with only 58,000 has stalled at the stop light from a failed timing belt due to a seized tensioner bearing.

Ah, indeed things could be pretty worn depending on vehicle service history and treatment. Granted mileage isn't always factor on when and if parts fail, I was just curious.

Just out of curiosity, how many miles are on your car?

Yep

Also, after install the Cone Washer, there should be a flat washer that goes in front of it, and then the Axle nut. That flat washer only goes one way, as it is not totally flat. They have a slight curvature to them, most have an etching that says "Out" on it, that would face outwards toward you. When you put that washer on, you want it bowing outwards against the Cone washer.

Look for nicks and gouges on the Cone Washer (It should be pretty much smooth) it should also be kinda snug when you push it in (As you tighten the axle nut, it will push the washer in deeper creating more force. I always apply a little grease to the Cone Washer before reinstall. As for getting a new one, the Dealer can get them. Rockauto.com might have them as well. As for Wheel bearings, you can probably do it your self. A shop is gonna cost you a load if you take the car there. Its like $70/hr at most places. I guess you can tap the old and new bearings in. I know when I did it on an XT, there was a lot of pressure applied before the bearing popped loose. I used a 12ton press and a large socket to press it out and in.

Just remember, there are no dumb questions. (only dumb answers lol) Cheers.

Because, its a Twin Turbo. It can do anything Is that a Busa on the back?

Pretty long post, but was a good read. I've actually never heard of this issue until seeing the thread and wondering what you were talking about. I have never driven a Subaru newer then a '01 3.0 Outback Wagon (Which rides like a Cadillac) I can not imagine how the new ones are, they are a totally different breed that is for sure. But I guess having an Automatic which actually gets out of its own way is nice

Any thing new with this car? I hear it sporting a complete exhaust now (Cheery bomb with a tail pipe extending out to the bumper) which is kinda what I was gonna do. Guess I'll have my change for a custom Header and Mid-pipe/Tail on the EA81

How old would you have to go back? Back to the days of Two piece wheels with tubes?

This is what I am going to do when I drill, seems lots more easy them trying to mark it with a sharpie. Thank you for posting the correct degree chamfer I'll need.

I know that rear gate isn't, Lol!

Here are the specs. This is for a Non-tubro car, but its all the same EXCEPT for spline count. Turbo cars have 25spline axles and N/A cars have 23spline. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2977926 Compressed Length is 27-1/4" Personally, you should not have to show proof that it is the correct part or not to return it. If they will not give you your money back without proof, I would get loud when other customers are in there, cause they will do anything to get you to leave the store, they will refund your money ASAP. I did this for a BMW part at AutoZone once, they gave me a part for a Ford and said it was correct. I got loud, 5min later I have my money back.