TheLoyale

Well, after a lot of discussion and actual pictures. I think I am still going with the Trailer wheels (Might even be getting the Wagon style like you said JoAnne) but in 16" with 205/45 rubber. Nice and hard like the Legacy used to be with those Potenzas'. Anyway, here is the Fuel pump and lines leading to it. All lines needs to be replaced and I need to de-rust and refinish the pump mounting bracket.

Just had to wax it this evening, a dude in a Corolla gave me a thumbs up at the petrol station! I think another restoration will need to happen sometime, I need a new rear gate, and two rear door (Rust Free and no dents) Ah, someday. I also changed the oil today, all ready to drive down to IL tomorrow and Saturday!

I had to press the bearings out on an XT MonsterWedge (4cyl) it took a few tons and then it finally popped. As for cost, I like to buy decent bearings. National bearings for the rear of my EA81 was $70 a bearing (But Moog is always expensive)

Doesn't matter if car is in gear or not, a bad bearing will move no matter what (Unless the brakes are clamping it) You want to do a pushing/pulling motion on the wheel, either left to right (As if you are trying to turn the wheel) and or top to bottom. One hand pushing, the other hand pulling. You can also check for Bad tierod ends and Balljoints this way (Do not worry about this at the moment)

Very clean Loyale! Welcome to USMB. As for typical EA82 oil leaking, here is a run down on seals that should be replaced: Cam Carrier Seal (Right behind the Cam pulleys) Crack Seal Valve Cover Seals/Grommets Oil Pump Seal and O-ring (Seal looks like Mickey Mouse head) Possible Cam Tower O-rings Oil Pan needs to be resealed with Fujibond (aka RTV Black) Rear main seal (Possible) Intake gaskets could also use replacing most times Sounds like a lot, but is worth it No matter what, a Subaru will always leak oil lol. If its not leaking oil, you are probably out. Cheers, -Tom

Front wheel bearings will need to be pressed Out and In via 12ton press (Unlike the rear wheel bearings) You will need to remove the entire knuckle, either buy a press from Harbor Freight or take it to a Machine shop, Bumper to Bumper could press the bearings for you. You are looking at about $70 a bearing with 2 $5 seals. GD is correct, I'm sure he's delt with all this stuff more then once as have most of us. If you leave the wheel on, jack it up and try to tug on the wheel, you should get some play if there is a back wheel bearing. No play at all is what you want, as that means you have a Good wheel bearing. As for noises, different bearing styles can make different noises and depending how they are failing can cause different noises as stated. Most times its a Moaning sound, but knocking is also possible.

Very good replies! This is really helpful. Idasho, your wheels appear to have the safety bead as well. So I think I might just stick to my guns and buy the wheels I have in mind the first time. O.C.D, Good links as well, and the wheels are fairly priced further more. Chux, Good to know about the manufactures. McBrat has also told me about the Chevy wheels having to much positive offset, leaving a good few inches of tire gapping out of the well (Plus extreme cutting of fenders would be needed for those as well) as seen on the Mnt Grizz wagon. Toyota does seem to have almost perfect off set for the Subarus, I've seen an EA82 wagon with 15" Toyota Alloys, looked good. As for "Offroad tires" the ski wagon isn't going to get the full on Offroad package like my EA82, I'm thinking 205/45/16s, nice firm sidewall like my Legacy used to have. I can still get a decent tread pattern in 205/45s, good enough for Snow/Mud.

The dimple can only go one way, as the Splines will make it a tooth off it you have it 180* the other way. the roll pin will not pound in then.

If its new, I can't imagine it being "Bad" mine only knocks because EMPI only used Assembly grease in the CVJ with no bearing grease (Plus my rig is lifted and has more stress on the axles) I suppose you could pull the CVJ boot off and check to see if there is any grease in the joint. But you will then need new boot clamps or big heavy duty Zip ties.

Is your rig lifted? I installed a new EMPI axle, which knocked from the get go.

You don't need a roll pin to drive your car. It will stay on the axle stub with no issue. Even it you fully extend the suspension during a jump, the axle won't slide off the shaft (I know from experience) You could stick a large nail in there and bend it over on each side if you really wanted lol. Its not going anywhere. (Just make sure the Axle nut it tight and you put a cotter pin in that) 200ft.lbs of torque on the axle nut. Use a Breaker bar and a length of pipe and just put you body weight on the nut.

Any parts store will have them instock. Its about 2" long.

OMG, it will not be a cotter pin in place of a Roll pin. I have a load of Roll pins. But you will be looking at a 3/16" roll pin. You can't go any bigger as it won't fit through the Axle stub.

Haha! I like it

To give ya'll the idea of what I want to go with on the Ski wagon, check these photos out. These are 16x6 "Weller style" wheels? Aussie talk perhaps? With 205/45s. I think these would look boss on the Ski wagon! Offset looks good as well.

The wheel discussion. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=131874

Well gee whiz, that is cool. Pictures are a must, we all like pictures!

To give ya'll the idea of what I want to go with on the Ski wagon, check these photos out. These are 16x6 "Weller style" wheels? Aussie talk perhaps? With 205/45s. I think these would look boss on the Ski wagon! Offset looks good as well.

Hmm, interesting. This is new water for me, so I'm trying to pick up as much info as I can. As for the centering rings and nubs. I actually ground the rings flat on the old Drums I had for my Loyale, as I wanted to run the Chrome center caps, but the caps were from an EA81 car so the prongs were longer and did not sit flush against the wheel until I ground down the rings. No strange vibrations either (Guess I did a decent job of grinding them down) but that is all long gone with the new Drums and Pugs I'm running. I will be watching this thread for more discussion between folks who have seen both types of wheels in person. Perhaps I should go take a look at trailer wheels locally and see whats up. Thanks for the picture, they do look good. Royale Loyale? Ha!

I guess my next question should be, what other Steel 6-lugs exist? Do all 6 lug rims share the same Bolt pattern? I always though Chevy, Ford, Dodge, Toyota used their own patterns and were not interchangeable? I bet I'm incorrect on this. I should get another set of 15" Toyota Alloys, like whats on my Landcruiser. But then I would have to redrill the hubs (Since there is no way to redrill these alloys) Everyone! Post pictures of your redrilled Steelies and Alloys. Looking for inspiration.

Thank you! That helps.

Always wanted a Big old GM or GMC truck, 1-ton '87 GMC Sierra Quad-cab Dully, with twin tanks and a FI 350. Someday

Is that a 2500 Sierra? Must be, with those 8 bolt wheels!

The Peugeot wheels I bought for the Loyale years back, before and after coating. Guess these too, have the safety bead.

A few posts from it.