TheLoyale

Did they give you a price for the whole car?

Perhaps type what you are looking for, in the google search bar, it will most likely pop up links to USMB in the search engine

This is possible, as the throttle cable is directly connected to the Butterfly valve on the TB, so it that is sticking, that might be the hard/sticky feeling. I know mine had a pretty good carbon/gunk build up before I cleaned it. Removing the TB from the intake might be over kill, (Would need a new gasket) I just spray and wipe it out while its on the car, the extra carb cleaner isn't gonna hurt anything, nor will any type of dirt which comes off (As long as you catch most of it) This could also be a faulty TPS, but I haven't seen many fail, so its a crap shoot. As for cleaning the MAF, do NOT clean the sensor tong with carb cleaner or any other sort. Use a MAF or Electrical spray cleaner which is not corrosive. I used Carb cleaner on a MAF once and F*cked it up for good lol..

Have seen that Sunday, I am going to take some more stuff off it. I kinda want the whole car and rebuild it, cause its a waste of such a rust free car... Its from So Cal.

I just read the rest of Kanurys post, I now understand what both of you were talking about. He is saying the vac line that runs to the Carb which controls the Vac Advance of the Disty, may not be hooked up right, giving you some running issues (if any) as it is NOT advancing the timing during revving. Before adjusting the timing, make sure the Vac Advance is working correctly first, if it is, and is still not running 100% then worry about advancing your ignition timing. As for the ASV, I am not 100% sure on that.

I am not telling you to do anything, you asked what "Vacuum Advance" was, I then told you.

To time an EA82 or pretty much any motor with a Distributor and Electronic Ignition (Not 100% about Point based systems) First, remove the little rubber plug on top of the bell housing, look in the hole, you will see the flywheel or Flexplate (Depending if its AT or MT) then, you will need to turn the motor until you see the engraved timing marks on the Flywheel, you will be looking for the mark 20* BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) you then mark that spot with something bright (Yellow crayon) Then, connect the Green (And or White) connector(s) up by the Wiper motor on the driver side firewall, then hook up you timing gun to the #1 Sparkplug wire, Start engine, let run till at operating temp and idle (500-750rpm) then, point the timing light into the bell housing through the window where the timing marks can be seen. You will then see your mark, line that up with the little arrow on the Bell housing by turning the Disty, Either Advancing or Retarding it to make it line up. Once lined up, tighten down the retaining bolts for the disty (10mm) shut car off, clean up everything and you should be done and ready to roll. -Tom

Why do you want to Time the engine? Did you ever touch the distributor?

Vacuum Advance is what a Disty uses to adjust Ignition timing through out the changing engine RPMs. Which is why you want the engine hot and at normal idle when adjusting ignition timing.

Thanks for the color break down! That sure helps, or may help for future ref.

Check all fuses as there is not one labeled for just the Oil sending unit. If its a fuse, I bet something else in your car does not work, Dome light, cig lighter ect..

Hmm, must be a connection, or perhaps a fuse.

Sending unit could be crap (Big round thing which screws into the pump) it is not uncommon for those to fail with age or be inaccurate.

And then it becomes interesting.

Thats the way mine is. I kinda think the EA82 has a better sound then the EJ rumble.

The EA82 Header isn't an UEL as a true UEL header, but one side is a tad longer then the other. It needs more unevenness if you ask me. Perhaps more compression for the sound we all want

'89 GL Runabout.

Oh yeah? Moving on from Subarus are we? Gonna have to unload your EA81 goodies on me when I buy the wheels I removed the hood pins on the ski wagon today and installed a correct, working Hood latch with good handle. Hood closes like butter now.

Or Nine months of ownership, whichever comes first... Just breakin' ur balls a little bit.

That is where it was mounted, uses one of the two 10mm bolts for the hood release. Thank you

I hate that little hose, I some how pop it loose everytime I do something on that side of the engine, then for 2 days I can't figure out why my car idles rough Lol.. But yes, HVAC.

So nobody knows what this is? Need to know if this is for the CC or not

Torque grind may yield more power, but only in a short lower power band. You might loose pull above 3500rpm more or less. Just a thought. We'll see what I come up with for a custom mid/tail, if I ever get the free time to do so.

No more hood pins! Hood works great now.

Cause I don't have $400 to blow on a car I have no where to put. Plus I would just end up fixing it. Possibly drop the motor and trans in from the Wagon and then junk the Ski body.