nnarth212

This terrifies me and may confirm all my fears. I hope you're wrong. I think I might cry... CB

Yes sir! Inless it's the HG--then I'm puring money into a whole through the 8th level of hell...

I saw no oil in the rad. I haven't dumped the oil yet. I let the T belt break--no running engine. I added a full expansion tanks worth weekly--this slowed as the minerals from using straight water packed whatever is leaking.... That's what I think, the top weep hole is caked in the minerals from using straight water. Though the shaft has no play. She has been sitting for 3 weeks, al water has evaprated BUT i will inspect for residue. How would I test the intake gasket? I will report back tomorrow! Thanks again Miles, your thoughts are appreciated and I am using your page all the time. Nnarth

"You have a real problem on your hands with that one." GD, once again, you have captured my concerns completely! I guess I needed someone to confirm that I had f'd this procedure up having not diagnosed all these issues prior to T belt failure--now I have to do the tbelt just to see if she'll ever be back on the road again. Side bar--the value of folks like GD can't be overstated--praise be to Allah for these excellent board members. I will likely make a leap of faith and do the T belt, oil seals and close her up--then try to find my water leak. Sigh. OH, and the Tbelt covers are cracked and never going back on. GD, do you think a compression test using compressed air may tell me something? Has anyone tried this? Thank you for your time, Nnnnnnarth

Sorry for reusing my old thread--i thought it might be ok, but i realize i have just confused things. SIGH.

Fellas, as some of you know I am a soobnoob--tackling my water pump/timing belt... Some background: old car, 220K, slowly losing coolant, over time, became losing lots of coolant, ie: frequent water top-offs. DUring this time a squealing noise beneath the hood was, over time, becoming louder. I just figured, squeal/water loss/no obvious bad hoses=water pump failure. Question: was this initial assessment in line with this board member's valuable experiences? I am a soobnoob, so I am certain I do not know the history of every hose--nor do I know the 'weak links' or the hard to find leaks. Which opens my initial assessment up to greater scrutiny, where is my water going? Do i need a water pump? I will take a longer look tonight and maybe post some photos of the pump... is there a definitive pump test or observational tool? So, prior to the t-belt breaking I was adding water almost daily to the cooling sys... I have no reason to believe it is the head gasket, no steam, good oil. I would like to find this leak before buying several hundred dollars in water pump/timing belt/gaskets and doing the work. I'm in a bind having let the belt broke before diagnosing the leak... now I don't want to fix a t belt if it's the HG and not the water pump... sigh! Any leads/tests too narrow this down is of much help. I think I will drain the oil tonight and be SURE the HG isn't gone.

Belt driven CVT. If it were a standard it'd be the perfect 3cylinder snow mobile! I have shopped for that one. CH

I was hoping to hear from you GD--you have captured and eliminated my real concern nicely. Priceless! Thank you, CH

I don't recall seeing a sway bar--do all turbo GL's have them on the rear? Thanks again to all for your time! CH:banana:

Much appreciated--the trailing arms seem to be accessible--I will certainly hit em with PM blaster! So the arms are swapable! I haven't seen a diagram but all this assumes that the stub axle/bearing is apart of the trailing arm and will bring the bearing with it when I swap it over because remember, I need the rear bearing most of all and swapping trailing arms is how I intend to replace it. So this arm, once in place will bolt right back to my existing rear axle? Then up with the strut and im done! Please point out any flaws with my logic... I need to get this girl done!

Hi guys, After seeing this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49975 I figured my bud's totaled 89' Turbo wagon push button 4x4 auto --I want to take the complete rear trailing arms, rotor, calipers and struts and put em on my 88' GL 4x4. Is there good reason to take the turbo diff too? Reason: my rear drivers bearing is bad and I'm too cheap for bearings/machine press time. Is my reasoning correct: the bearing has the stub axel pressed in--so If I want to replace the bearing I can just replace the entire bearing/stub axel/trailing arm as a unit? I also need new rear struts and the one's on the T-wagon look clean and recent-- is anything flawed here? can I just remove my axel install the replacement trailing arms and go? I really want to replace the bearing and strut--this is just a way of doing it faster with no machine shop time and no new costly parts--just found parts. And i figure a bolt in disc upgrade is a nice touch. Thoughts?

Thanks for your time, "There are self diagnostic connectors on all models which, when connected together with the key in the ON position (engine off) flash diagnostic codes through the LED light on the Oxygen Monitor on the ECU. " Where is this Light? 88, GL wagon, 1.8 non-T, spfi 5pd hi/lo 4wd

OK--so wheel off, loose castle nut months ago is now proven failed bearing--I hear this is going to be fun. I see a trailing arm--where is the bearing? where is this funny nut that requires the special tool? I think I am begging for a diagram of a rear bearing.... I have searched--however everyone seems to avoid the basic questions--I guess i may get a manual before the bearing--reading suggestions? The strut on this wheel is t0otlly shot--are these 4x4 specific? I am hoping to grab a used one... cheapness is a factor--see above... maybe rather then buy a bearing new, an entire trailing arm and strut is the more cost effective route.

Oh geeze--Excellent page Miles, just what the sick soob ordered. Thanks for all the help fellas--Grossgary, azsubaru for posting Miles' page that he didn't bother to share ! Good work fellas!

I am from the BMW school--almost every seal has companion items that need replacing or a paper gasket for the seal carrier... no surprises in the suby school i take it. Has anyone linked or saved any part numbers? Thanks guys, CH

Fellas, I have broke my belt and I plan on doing these and the water pump this weekend. 5spd 4WD ea82 non T. A few questions: I know there are a few different pumps fit on these. Which one belongs on an 88' spfi wagon? What price is fair for a $tealer OEM part? She leaks oil pretty well though I haven't taken off the tbelt covers, what seals are recommended to be replaced while I am in here and is there a guide that can walk me through it? I already have the oil pump seals--what about the cams? What else may I want to do for the best possible finish? I am the 2nd owner of this 220k Mi. and for the last 10 mos have since driven her into the ground--I will probably get some used rear shocks for her next. Any and all info is appreciated. Thank you, CH:dead: