davebugs

I've been under my share of 95-99 Subaru's and don't recall ever seeing grey boots. Infact most I've "redone" had 120-200k on them and all seemed to have OEM axles but one car - drivers side. And on a 97 GT I had symptoms like yours and it was the drivers side axle. I've probably been under 100 of these cars and have only seen 2 bad or replaced front axles. The one that needed RR axle had a torn boot. Maybe I'm just lucky, but we do have winter here and these weren't low mileage cars. YMMV

rotor, wheel bearing, or tire. If it were backing plate it would be noise but I don't see that causing feedback to the steering wheel. Also could be axle. I'd yank on the axle and feel for play. Often the axle will vary from being under load to coasting(usually more vibration when under load). In my experience usually the drivers side goes first for some reason. But if a boot was compromised who knows, I've even had to replace a rear axle.

If you ever need to do this job I hope you have an Outback. The like 1" body spacer really gives you a lot more room then the other models. I have one of these used left. Works for like 95-97 IIR due to Evap lines at top. Nothing special has rust but didn't seem to leak. Could be experimented with and coated with something before being installed. Knowing what they cost I kept them when I parted cars if they seemed any good. And I can't really work on cars anymore.

Was it seperating at the rubber or did whoever did the last timing belt not get the crank bolt tight? What repairs did they do? Do they realize how tight that bolt needs to be and did they say anything about the keyway?

There are 2 sizes, you want the smaller one - the same size as a spark plug. Perhaps someone remembers the size, I think it's 17mm. They come 2 to a package.

I have one used one left. I'd probably just buy new. Dorman used to have a Chinese one that wasn't priced too badly when I priced them. Not a sophisticated part.

I've got those. PM if you need one.

I think it's just there as a dampener. I'd put a different one on, make sure it's TIGHT. If that rubber separates your accessories belts will stop.

No better time to start a fresh burp than when you check/replace the thermostat.

Based on what I've seen 99 auto, and then starting in 96 all(auto and manual) have EGR. 2.2 and 2.5's Only other similar change as far as swapping was when they moved the EVAP charcoal canister from up by the radiator to back near filler tube IIR around '98.

Yep. Really an incomplete circuit. That's what tells you it's electrical (plugs/wires/coil). If it were mechanical it would likely be on one cylinder or both cylinders on the same head (like if timing belt jumps) 1&3 or 2&4.

There is so much you can check over and do on the engine while it's out. You can leave the radiator in (although I usually have it out to be cleaned/tested) just make sure to put cardboard or an old chunk of paneling in there after you take the fans off to stop from accidentally damaging the rad. I hate working on my back. Actually I have a lift and can do it either way and always pull the engine.

I sell way more used coils than ignitors. That said it's usually plugs or wires.

Block of wood and sledge hammer. I usually do it underneath. A 2x6 works best for me on basically the bead of the rim. Don't forget to spin the wheel from time to time. Don't wanna pound all in the same place. I always buff the wheels and the metal mating surface on the car and anti-seize when reinstalling.

Actually when it' s electrical 1&2 or 3&4 miss together. Due to the "wasted spark" ignition system Subaru's use. Could be a plug, wire, or coil pack. You can start by moving the wires front to back if you'd like and perhaps change the plugs while you are at it. If the code follows the plug wires then they are the problem. If not it was a plug(you may have changed out) or the coil pack.

The old style (brass ones) were sturdy, reliable, and easily reusable. The newer style seem less sturdy and expensive. But I'd usually replace them. IIR you have to pay close attention to their orientation when compressing hem too. I take a long time to compress either of those. If you wer ein the US I have a few "kits" including the aluminum piece that goes onto the block to allow use of the old style tensioner, an old style tensioner, bolts, etc.

I always pull engine. Reseal it(baffle plate, crank, cam seals), maybe timing belt (including idlers,WP, etc.) Buy a new fork and the 2 clips for it.

My local upholstery show uses mostly Lexol - and I think they make a cleaner too.

Motive PRESSURE bleeder? Very handy when air gets in the lines. Better than all the little pulses from pumping which can cause bubbles. Much more effective than "sucking" devices where the air expands much more than the fluid being sucked. Buy/borrow/rent one - and the correct adapter.

NGK the ones with the green printing on them that are like 2 bucks each. BKR5E-11 or BKR6E-11 - something like that. One is for 2.2's the other 2.5's.

17. 5 hours? Seriously. I"m not a prefessional but if I went at it seriousely it takes half that. I do it at my own pace, working alone and it takes a long day. I remove the rad and have it cleaned and tested and definately remove the engine. Removing the engine IMO makes a better job of it (surface preperation and stuff. And if a plastic baffle place you reseal it. Heck I reseal the metal ones too because I have the engine out. And he's clueless about the current problem. Did he use Subaru HG's (or something he made more money on? And I believe in 98 the charcoal canister was moved to the rear basically under the fuel filler tube. First guess is he screwed up and left a hose off the intake, broke one, you get the idea. Or the filler tube just happened to go bad - because why would you have just decided to replace the fuel cap?

Me too. Subaru's in the past Volvo's, even VW's which often had Bosch (more normal plugs) as OEM. I use NGK for everything but my 90's Chevy's. I LOVE Bosch Platinums in that they let me buy cars cheap. I'd never install them. YMMV

Everything helps, especially large items like fenders. Old Subaru's are light cars. Often folks don't look in the trunk, atleast when I used to haul in scrap cars they didn't. I just see it as a wasted opportunity to ship empty cars they cut back on what you can haul to PA seperately - or cost you more. I passed a car hauler last night that had 6 on top row and could have handler 5 on bottom row. It was one of those that was kinda extended on the tractor side. With a car over the cab.

Folks seriousely under estimate the importance of OEM (some say NGK too) plug wires on 2,5's (DOHC and SOHC). Same goes for getting a fancy plug rather than what is called for. Bosch Platinums have caused more problems in more different cars that anything in recent memory other than Ethanol.

Those always seem to have buildup - and can be brittle from heat and age. Won't hurt anything, but I'll be surprised if it helps your miss.