davebugs

Glad it all worked out. Things could have gotten ever uglier. I assume you used anti-seize and dielectric grease.

My guess is that he's been drinking the coolaid but doesn't have whatever it takes to be a distributor. Since he likes attacking products others have had success with I think IF he ever becomes a distributor free samples for USMB members should be part of his business plan. If you believe in the product that much, and it's that good, should be an easy thing to do.

GG - I know it's a simple swap. But 1&3 on a coil pack (rather than 1&2 or 3&4?) I haven't witnessed this yet.

Not to rain on a potential competitors product but the Seafoam works very well on VW 2.0's to make the top end queiter. Run it a short time and drain. And it's a favorite of mine for Suby catalytic performance not up to par (or whatever the code is). Never used it as an engine cleaner in a Suby - but it works well in the VW's. Back in the day I used to use ATF, add a quart, short drive, immediate drain & new filter. Since ATF is basically very high detergent oil. MMO works well in Suby's after installing a used engine or after a HG job. Few hundred miles and drain, fresh oil and filter. On both 2.2's and 2.5's.

Thanks. Looking like tractor/trailer paint for me. I had actually considered POR15 but it gets expensive and stinks pretty bad.

Wow - for my trailer I was thinking of using bed liner to slimp on the prep. I figure tractor paint or bed liner. Diamond plate has surface rust. Hoped to just paint over it reather than rust converter, rust proofer, etc under the top coat. I don't care about looks on the trailer - but I'd hate to see it flake off.

Depending on if it made sense I'm sure some of us have old plug wires. Don't forget to get only Suby ones. But I'm sure some off us have used offbrands, or welll used Suby ones. Don't know if shipping would be time and $ prohibitive. And we'd need to know if it's a male or female connection at the coil, and the shape of the opening in the valve cover. Pics of the old one would suffice.

Gee - and when I saw the original post I was gonna suggest drinking heavily. I hear that makes other people more interesting. Perhaps the same would apply to a message board. I do believe we have folks from time to time who post but probably can't legally drive at the time. Hey - maybe that's when the thread was started!

I mentioned early on in this thread that it was likely part of the boot from the plug wire. Otherwise he'd of had a miss since the wire wouldn't have fit over the rubber "bushing" from the spark plug socket. I also recommended hose pliers that I posted a pic of here in a favorite tool thread. The expensive ones (Sunax?) are bent almost 90 degrees at the and. The cheap ones (Harbor Freight) are almost straight but about 1/3 the price. May be worth the cheap pair to heat and bend. That plug wire boot it tougher than the rubber sleeve in a socket. You may also try a razor knife(a thin one) as I suggested early on. Good luck - unpleasant job. I usually just pull the engine at this point and reseal it, etc since pulling the engine doesnt' take that long and is WAY less frustrating.

Update your profile with a state. Perhaps someone can make a local recommendation.

One bottle. Used to be a small blue bottle for like 2 bucks - but I haven't needed any for a while.

Rubber mallet is something that I try - of course I usually have the engine out. Then I progress from there. But after is start to move it just takes patience. As GG eluded to there is no real good place to pry against. SOmetimes I'll actually re-install the alternator bracket to try and use it.

If you read the bottle it makes it sound like you just shouldn't pour it in when you're filling the rad. Don't know if it's beacuse they want the system warm or if they figure you're starting with a full rad. The bpottle used to be a couple bucks. I only have 2 left so I don't know if they've gone up in price.

Most of that stuff isn't sprayable without special equipment. They put undercoating in cans (thick gooey stuff) but I haven't seen the bedliner in spray cans yet. I'm probably gonna use bedliner on my rusty car hauler trailer this summer. Should make the diamond plate a lot less slippy than when it was painted and wear well. Shouldn't be any hotter in the sun than the black paint.

It's a whole multiple step procedure. Look at and print out the appropriate Endwrench article. I actually have a template with ABCDE, etc that I lay on the floor. I also try and have as few of pieces as possible between the 12 point socket and the torque wrench. Infact I may buy a deep 12 point specifically for this purpose. But please - look for the correct procedure.

I assume you're in Albany NY? Thats probably just crud form the plug wires sealing poorly in the holes.

Actually I was at Pep Boys one day and they had generic spark plug sockets and I bought one just to sacrifice next time this happened to me. Hated to take a chance at ruining a good S-K swivel spark plug socket. One time on a Suby I had to reinstall the plug a few times on Cyl #4 on a DOHC due to the rubber problem. Not a whole lotta fun. But yea - as frustration mounts taking a chance on removing the bushing from your existing socket (if you can't find a cheap one) may work. I used a deep well impact socket last time I had this issue. I figured they were less restrictive in the middle of the socket to get over the rubber on the plug. Anyway you look at it it's not a pleasant job. And I doubt the plug wire was fitting well. Never did hear if he looked at the plug wire - he may be needing one of them as well.

Hose pliers. Sometimes using a standard deep socket. I'd recommend AGAINST removing the rubber from your socket and using it. I don't think it would ever be "tight" again. Not a whole lot to scratch to worry about that I can think of. Only perhaps a lip where the rubber rings are in the valve covers. It's gonna be stuck from heat and so on. If the car was missing - you've found the problem. Did they alter the pulg wire? You may even try cutting it with a razor knife?

Please examine the end of the plug wire. Compare it to another plug wire. Make sure nothing is stuck onto the spark plug that you can't see (like from the spark plug boot). I've had this happen to me on other cars. And occasionally have had the problem when installing new plugs that the rubber bushing from the socket sometimes stays on the spark plug and I can't get the wire on. LL I was typing at the same time Gloyale was. Also the non-fouler - while it wouldn't be good news I'd be very willing to bet isn't your problem.

Personally in that era of Subaru I use the Advance Auto universal anti-freeze. Kinda looks line Mountain Dew. Of course I'm always changing out the fluid as part of a HG or engine swap. On very new Suby's I use the expensive dealer stuff - but I don't work on them much.

Don't forget to have the new heads checked. Or at the absolute minumum check them yourself for warpage.

Bummer. Doesn't matter how well things are lined up after the valves are bent. BTW if you thought it was fun removing the heads wait until you're doing the torque sequence for the re-install. But those buggers are tight. Make sure you lube up the head bolts very well. Some always still creak for me when tightening them. If the engine is on a stand a friend to hold the stand helps a lot.

There are several folks selling the PCI kits. I happed to deal with theimportexperts. They are both the double bearing idlers. I think there are several with the same pricing. Typically GMB bearings.

That might be worth a trip to Charlotte. A link would have been nice. It'd be gone by the time I could get there.

Yea - I love that pic of Skip's engine. The Ebay kits ship nothing but doubles, so do the dealer kits but they are pricey. My local parts place the kit somes with doubles. But they aren't cost effective. Ebay with the PCI kits with the GMB bearings has been working for me as the best value. Compared to no replacement, dealer prices, or chain or local parts store's kits. I use and stick with "theimportexperts" because I like to build relationships. Others appear to sell the same kits at the same prices. I just stick with these guys even though they are at the other side of the country (as all these guys seem to be). On the rare occasion that I have a problem I'd like to think that I get better service.