davebugs

I'd look again. Most kits come with double bearing idlers. It must be an incredibly generic set. I'd take it back and get an Ebay kit. I assume you're doing crank/cam seals, WP, oil pump screws, spark plugs, etc - the usual stuff? Comcast issues today - my first response was lost.

I'm with Rooster2 on this. Never used the trans tune. Love the regular seafoam for O2 sensors on Suby's, for sludge issues on VW 2.0's, etc. But I think of it as a detergent and as such want to dain it ALL out. Which you really can't do well on a tranny.

I got heads. Not that cheap but known good. I'd need to tear an engine down to get them. Unless you want 97/98 DOHC heads w/bent valves due to an idler failure - I have them on the shelf. I think they are 97 (from memory) because they have the shims to adjsut the valves). PM me if interested. I have a set of 2.5 DOHC form an engine with bearing issues. And a set of 2.5 SOHC heads(Forester) from an engine with bearing issues. Both engines are complete at the present time. Both have around 150k on them.

Plugs. Seperator will be metal - but I still reseal them. Tensioner? AT 100k I don't see it an mandatory. But be very careful compressing the new style tensioners. I never buy the whole Subaru kit so I don't know what comes in it. I'd imagine still check/reseal/tighten screws on oil pump?

Tracy, I wondered how you were making out as I was moving parts around the garage over the weekend and threw out a pile of timing belts. Yes - you were lucky. Glad we were able to figure out what you really needed and that you could get it back on the road without a major repair bill. Lucky, I'm not a lottery player - but you should consider it. Happy to help.

You set off the alarm. Hit the reset button under the dash. Subaru safety feature/alarm. Let them start and drive the car - but blink the 4ways SLOWLY. I'd actually like to hear the official reason why they use this method.

I've seen these on Foresters. Don't know if they are really needed. GREAT PRICE on the engine. Hope its a good one. Doing HG's while it's out?

I don't believe so. If you look at the wiring harness plugs. The 97 has 3, the newer engine has 2. I'm talking where the engine/trans meet on the passenger side. Don't know if intakes will swap - or that will be enough to make it work. You're still better off doing the 2.2 I believe. Look at how many wiring harness plugs there are. Or someone with better knowledge will confirm/deny/comment. You may get into a discussion about cam sensors/cam pulleys, ECU, etc.

There are several pieces of heat shield just on the front Ypipe. 5 come to mind immediately. If make a trip for each - neither you or the garage will be happy.

Here's my thread about similar dirty fluid from last year including pics: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87092&highlight=fluid I still have these old samples laying around. I spent quality time with the Wolf's Head engineer to make sure that the Universal Synthetic ATF met the specs for this car and felt comfortable that it did. If you need his contact info PM me. I've taken to checking the fluid level, and draining it, measuring it, and adding the same amount back every other oil change. The color is definately improving.

If you're gonna be relatively quick about it. Loosen the gas cap(don't really know if it helps). Put a rag underneath the hoses and one over top. There will still be plenty of pressure. Doesn't take long at all and not very difficult. Depending on your living/garage situation you may want to make sure that you do it outside.

Fuel filter first. I don't work on that new of Suby's but it's probably in the same place. Cheap and easy to do, very accessable. Just remember there is pressure in those lines.

You've been pointed to the endwrench articles. I told you to use hash marks - not dots, arrows, and such in a different thread. If you lined up the marks as endwrench SHOWS and you've been told you'll be fine. If you didn't line up the marks - what else can we tell you? Apparently we're not getting through. I'm a bit dense myself at times.

Ever had a car with a roof rack before?

A free alternator check and battery load test at a chain store may not be a bad idea if the starter doesn't do it. Usually with the starters I've seen it's the contacts that are the problem and that isn't usually a heat related issue. Let us know what it ends up being.

First guess is did you clean the connections at the starter and battery when you had them off? Sounding like a starter or even alternator not up to snuff. If the alt is going bad the battery will be de-charging as they run the car.

Common problem. I'm usually installing new Wagner Therno Quiet pads and new rotors. Flash is common and I always file, and use anti-seize. I also take the stainless clips off and file the bracket behind them and apply some anit-seize there as well hoping to minimize rust (which expands the metal). Clean the stainless clips usually with brake clean and scotch brite. Install pads with the bracket in the vise. If tight - file flash until snug. Tape pads out, install bracket along w/rotor on the car, install pads.

There is a mark by the crank sensor to align the mark at the REAR of the splined pully to.

Thanks guys. I'm pretty full up but I made this lady an offer a month ago. So she finally calls today. I may pass on the car but it has 4 flat tires so I needed to know if the other tires would fit incase I buy it. I haven't had the best luck with the few Forester's I've done.

Atleast long enough to potentially get it home. Load it on and off the trailer? Either a collection of donut tires, or old tires on real rims? Any brake caliper clearance ot other issues?

That 1 inch or so body lift on an Outback sure makes this job a bit easier. On GT and L's it's really cramped.

Smoother. No adjusting necessary.

I still say there should be some kinda legal course due to the deception. I'm not abig guyon the whole litigation thing but this was flagrant deceit. I buy a decent amount of cars. Dash lights (and in particular Airbag and ABS lights) I always look for. They all need to flash when the key is first turned.

Rustproofing. No-one would still do the filler tube. Think about it - hidden BEHIND the plastic "guard". They do frame's and floors, inside doors. Good idea - but wouldn't help the filler tube. Makes cars a mess to work on. Combine that with all the coated metals and plastics and that's why there aren't many rust proofing places anymore.

I haven't been to Carlisle in years. Used to always hit the kit/import show. Then the "tuners" ruined it so they gave them their own show, which I understand they later dropped - too many issues with attendees. We're probably talking 10 years ago. Used to be a great source for parts for my old VW's. Nice facility. Never made it for any of the shows later in the season though. Lots of interesting cars and folks. I'd go friday for parts, saturday to see the cars, and usually we'd head home sat night. How is it nowadays? If there is one closer to me I'll definately try and stop in. The current GF doesn't like or understand the whole car thing and we only see each other weekends. But she has other qualities...