davebugs

Ever had a car with a roof rack before?

A free alternator check and battery load test at a chain store may not be a bad idea if the starter doesn't do it. Usually with the starters I've seen it's the contacts that are the problem and that isn't usually a heat related issue. Let us know what it ends up being.

First guess is did you clean the connections at the starter and battery when you had them off? Sounding like a starter or even alternator not up to snuff. If the alt is going bad the battery will be de-charging as they run the car.

Common problem. I'm usually installing new Wagner Therno Quiet pads and new rotors. Flash is common and I always file, and use anti-seize. I also take the stainless clips off and file the bracket behind them and apply some anit-seize there as well hoping to minimize rust (which expands the metal). Clean the stainless clips usually with brake clean and scotch brite. Install pads with the bracket in the vise. If tight - file flash until snug. Tape pads out, install bracket along w/rotor on the car, install pads.

There is a mark by the crank sensor to align the mark at the REAR of the splined pully to.

Thanks guys. I'm pretty full up but I made this lady an offer a month ago. So she finally calls today. I may pass on the car but it has 4 flat tires so I needed to know if the other tires would fit incase I buy it. I haven't had the best luck with the few Forester's I've done.

Atleast long enough to potentially get it home. Load it on and off the trailer? Either a collection of donut tires, or old tires on real rims? Any brake caliper clearance ot other issues?

That 1 inch or so body lift on an Outback sure makes this job a bit easier. On GT and L's it's really cramped.

Smoother. No adjusting necessary.

I still say there should be some kinda legal course due to the deception. I'm not abig guyon the whole litigation thing but this was flagrant deceit. I buy a decent amount of cars. Dash lights (and in particular Airbag and ABS lights) I always look for. They all need to flash when the key is first turned.

Rustproofing. No-one would still do the filler tube. Think about it - hidden BEHIND the plastic "guard". They do frame's and floors, inside doors. Good idea - but wouldn't help the filler tube. Makes cars a mess to work on. Combine that with all the coated metals and plastics and that's why there aren't many rust proofing places anymore.

I haven't been to Carlisle in years. Used to always hit the kit/import show. Then the "tuners" ruined it so they gave them their own show, which I understand they later dropped - too many issues with attendees. We're probably talking 10 years ago. Used to be a great source for parts for my old VW's. Nice facility. Never made it for any of the shows later in the season though. Lots of interesting cars and folks. I'd go friday for parts, saturday to see the cars, and usually we'd head home sat night. How is it nowadays? If there is one closer to me I'll definately try and stop in. The current GF doesn't like or understand the whole car thing and we only see each other weekends. But she has other qualities...

Basically you'll need all the accessories and brackets of the old engine.

Check w/your local Suby shop for old rotors. Of some of the cheap new rotors are under 20 bucks.

Dealer only item. There is enough demand that I don't know why someone doesn't make an aftermarket one - perhaps liability. On Ebay someone sells reconditioned ones with a lifetime warranty but I've never seen one. DON'T reinstall the plastic "shield" that caused it to rust through to begin with.

I'm gonna try cleaning it on the car today. Car is sold and for the first time I let some one widdle me down a little bit on price. I was gonna put plug wires, HVAC bulbs, and remove and clean the IAC - of course they didn't know that. So now it won't be happenning. You literally get what you pay for. Thanks for the pointers and pics. I reread the thread and don't fully understand the pointers. But I'll remove the hose that goes to the airbox, get the airbox outta the way. Then decide whether to leave the hose on or not when spraying the carb claner. I know the car won't run more than a few seconds without this hose connected. If it makes sense I can remove the plastic top with the few screws and clean it off a bit. The symptoms I'm hoping to improve on are mostly the delay/cutout just off idle when you're easy on the pedal. Also it doesn't run real smooth at low RPM's. No CEL's after a couple hundred miles. It should be smoothing out by now based on past experience. If anyone has any other recommendations now that I'm unlikely to remove it for cleaning please chime in. o.k. last edit wasnt saved. My reason for cleaning this is stumble off idle when pedal is gently pressed, doesn't run smooth at low RPM"s - idle through 1k. No CEL's. 200 miles on this engine so passed experience tells me it should be settling down. If there is something else to look at please mention it. New plugs, has aftermarket wires that aren't new.

No rod knock, heads not warped more than a resurface I fix 'em. ANY rod knock I swap 'em. I ALWAYS get the rad flushed/pressure tested while waiting on the heads.

The baffle plate is beside the rear main (on the passenger side, back of the engine). It is common for them to leak - or even be cracked and from the outside it looks like a rear main. Infact most folks here will tell you NOT to touch the rear main. It's more likely to leak after being touched.

The endwrench articles (and the other place) have excellent pics in amongst the text on TB replacement. When all else fails remember "Hash marks are the key". Not arrows, dots, etc. they will all get you in trouble. Hask marks only.

Intakes won't swap - but you shouldn't need to. Search around here. I just answered this about someone else asking within the last week. I'ts plug and play. Only items are plumbing for EVAP system and sometimes valve cover breathers. PS lines don't fit into the bracket is the only real shortcoming and who cares? Good folks here to help. But please do some research first.

Consider yourself lucky. Probably a third of the cars that I get the pump is leaking. Rebuild kit is the same price as a used PS pump - aboptu 20 bucks.

Search around here. Search for oil separator plate or baffle plate. Easy fix, after engine or trans is outta the way.

Yea - when you're looking over the radiator.

Welcome. Looks like you found a bombed out building in Yugoslovia? It took me well over a year to post pics - so you're doing well. Lots of good historical info here and knowledgable folks. The search function is wonderful.

Excellent deal if you think you can trust them.