davebugs

Basically you'll need all the accessories and brackets of the old engine.

Check w/your local Suby shop for old rotors. Of some of the cheap new rotors are under 20 bucks.

Dealer only item. There is enough demand that I don't know why someone doesn't make an aftermarket one - perhaps liability. On Ebay someone sells reconditioned ones with a lifetime warranty but I've never seen one. DON'T reinstall the plastic "shield" that caused it to rust through to begin with.

I'm gonna try cleaning it on the car today. Car is sold and for the first time I let some one widdle me down a little bit on price. I was gonna put plug wires, HVAC bulbs, and remove and clean the IAC - of course they didn't know that. So now it won't be happenning. You literally get what you pay for. Thanks for the pointers and pics. I reread the thread and don't fully understand the pointers. But I'll remove the hose that goes to the airbox, get the airbox outta the way. Then decide whether to leave the hose on or not when spraying the carb claner. I know the car won't run more than a few seconds without this hose connected. If it makes sense I can remove the plastic top with the few screws and clean it off a bit. The symptoms I'm hoping to improve on are mostly the delay/cutout just off idle when you're easy on the pedal. Also it doesn't run real smooth at low RPM's. No CEL's after a couple hundred miles. It should be smoothing out by now based on past experience. If anyone has any other recommendations now that I'm unlikely to remove it for cleaning please chime in. o.k. last edit wasnt saved. My reason for cleaning this is stumble off idle when pedal is gently pressed, doesn't run smooth at low RPM"s - idle through 1k. No CEL's. 200 miles on this engine so passed experience tells me it should be settling down. If there is something else to look at please mention it. New plugs, has aftermarket wires that aren't new.

No rod knock, heads not warped more than a resurface I fix 'em. ANY rod knock I swap 'em. I ALWAYS get the rad flushed/pressure tested while waiting on the heads.

The baffle plate is beside the rear main (on the passenger side, back of the engine). It is common for them to leak - or even be cracked and from the outside it looks like a rear main. Infact most folks here will tell you NOT to touch the rear main. It's more likely to leak after being touched.

The endwrench articles (and the other place) have excellent pics in amongst the text on TB replacement. When all else fails remember "Hash marks are the key". Not arrows, dots, etc. they will all get you in trouble. Hask marks only.

Intakes won't swap - but you shouldn't need to. Search around here. I just answered this about someone else asking within the last week. I'ts plug and play. Only items are plumbing for EVAP system and sometimes valve cover breathers. PS lines don't fit into the bracket is the only real shortcoming and who cares? Good folks here to help. But please do some research first.

Consider yourself lucky. Probably a third of the cars that I get the pump is leaking. Rebuild kit is the same price as a used PS pump - aboptu 20 bucks.

Search around here. Search for oil separator plate or baffle plate. Easy fix, after engine or trans is outta the way.

Yea - when you're looking over the radiator.

Welcome. Looks like you found a bombed out building in Yugoslovia? It took me well over a year to post pics - so you're doing well. Lots of good historical info here and knowledgable folks. The search function is wonderful.

Excellent deal if you think you can trust them.

Yes they should according to the interchange.

This isn't how everyone does it. I ALWAYS pull the engine. Look for marks on the pistons. If any marks I get a different engine. If not it's weasier to work on and I think it's easier to do a better job of surface preperation on the engine, seal the baffle plate(should be aluminum on your engine), oil pump screws Oring, seals, etc. Not to mention the whole torqueing procedure YOU MUST USE SUBY HEAD GASKETS!! Some folks reuse the engine even if piston(s) have marks in them. I generally sell what I fix and don't want any issues (never had any - knock on wood). If it were my personal car I might chance it - but probably not.

When they leak usually it's from the pump itself and there is a little red puddle on top of the engine if you look immediately behind the PS pump.

Love it where we get to GUESS where you're at. Are you in the witness protection plan or something? Welcome to the board but please update your profile. I have a 99 2.5 SOHC from a Forester here that has bad bearings. You're gonna need valve work or another head. Others here may have parts and/or expertise locally as well.

There is a JDM place in Pattersen/Patterson NJ much closer to you. I've still never done a JDM.

Thanks for the pics. That is what I started to remove from the 2.5 and was planning on cleaning and installing on the 2.2. The 2.5 was on the ground so I couldn't see that elusive 3rd bolt and jus tput the engine on the shelf. Now it sounds like the 2.5 and 2.2 aren't interchangable anyways. Perhaps this is tonights project.

I can't believe there isn't a procedure from someone doing this before. If I do it I will take pics. Actually I'd like some help. A second set of eyes, and someone to bounce ideas off of while doing it. In addition to any expertise they may have and documenting abilities. I have a tendence to remember before pictures, and after pictures when doing a project and forget a lot of the pics in between. Especially if my hands are dirty. Also my memory isn't always the greatest and taking notes while working on engines I tend not to do. Thats why I'd like to see if anyone has any interest in assisting me, doing their own at the same time, etc. I believe at this time they'd just need to supply their own engine stand and engine(actually I have engines needing done if they'd like to work on one of those). I normally do everything myself. But I think two heads may be better than one for this project especially since I haven't done it and to be able to document it better.

I'll look today. I haven't seen a pic of the IAC yet. But the PVC is easy. I think we're talking about the gizmo basically under the PCV - but I could be wrong. I started pulling one of a 96 2.5 parts engine yesterday because I had easy access but never got it off. Ran out of time. I had some assistance with garage cleaning (read engine stacking). I'll probably remove one from one of the 97 2.2's that I have to put on the 95 2.2 having the issue.

GG, Thanks for the offer - and I may end up taking you up on it. I'm not big on borrowing tools but it may make sense in this case. If it works and I think I may do this again I can have one made for myself. I haven't decided whether to take on this project yet. But it would be nice to know if your tool might work. Dave

o.k. my memory isn't that great. But it IS the huge thing - like a foot around. IIR the cruise thing is smaller. I'll edit this later if I'm wrong.

Personal preference and value. Personally I get Cardone all metal WP's locally for 50 bucks. Looks suspiciousely the same as Advance's "Signature" series for 55 bucks. Folks have used the Ebay kits WP's - I think they are GMB. I have no experience with them but considering one for next TB job to try. Or I think a dealer WP is like 80 bucks - you can perhaps save money buying it online. I will say this. One time I needed one from Advance(my local place was out of them) and theirs didn't come with an essential gasket - I think it was the thermostat gasket but it had the WP gasket(which I wasn't gonna use anyways). So if you get one of those check the box. I don't know if it was a one time packaging issue or if they don't include them.

This is a 95 2.2 in an OBW that I transplanted. You mean the stiff hose that goes to the airbox that if you forget to connect it the car immediately dies correct? Almost a foot long. I do have ones here on parts engines that had no hesitation. So I could swap if that made sense. Just spraying - engine running or off? I'm assuming off since if it's the hose I'm thinking of the car will die with the hose disconnected.