davebugs

In my neck of the woods back in the day everyone stocked Gates belts & hoses. I always had good luck with them. Not that we're living in a mostly chain world Dayco seems to be the norm, my local guys also stock them, and I believe theimportexperts sell them as well. I've never had trouble with them on any cars I've installed them on (Subaru, and VW mostly). Some folks prefer a Suby belt - I won't argue but I don't use them. I do use all their seals, Orings and WP gasket, and HG's if needed.

I searched here and endwrench(where I rarely have success searching) looking for a procedure. Anyone have a link handy? I have a car that cuts out for part of a second just off idle - especially when cold. I've never had to clean an IAC before. I may take one of a parts engine and clean it ahead of time. Actually I have ones that I know don't stumble to replace it with but might as well clean it while it's in my hand. Debating how much of the unit needs removed/cleaned, etc. Pics would be great.

Ir's the big round black thing between the master cylinder and the firewall. Has a vacuum line running to it from the intake manifold. SOmeone here recently had a bad hose.

I highly recommend the Suby WP gasket. I buy all metal cardone WP's for 50 bucks but don't like the aftermarket WP gaskets. I saw mention earlier of seals and Orings- I use only Suby. The Idlers/tensioner - ebay kit. Timing belt I happen to use Dayco. Afraid of the Ebay ones (especially on interference engines) and Suby's are pricey. This is the combination that I use for what I consider maximum reliability at a fair price and a complete job.

Thanks for the thoughts so far. I don't mind a challenge - but I'd like to think I'm not stupid. I'm betting parts at the dealer would put this over budget. Not that I have a budget. My local dealer only does the shortblock thing. So they were of little help. I do have a Suby tech that can probably give me a hand. Apparently they learn how to rebuild them in training but then never actually do them at the dealership. I haven't totally redone an engine in years other than VW air cooled's and that has been some time ago and were pretty easy with the jugs and all. The cars I do have between 100 and 200k so getting a new shortblock is out of the budget by the time all the other work is done. Never tried the JDM route. Hate to just get another local 2.5 with 100k and up, do the HG's, TB, idlers, seals, etc then put it in and hear rod knock. I've been that route (twice with the same engine in a 99 Forester 2.5 SOHC). If it's not worth doing I can accept that. Or if someone has done this before and is willing to show others I can offer a place, engines, parts, and hopefully tools. Maybe a few of us can get smartened up a bit?

Searching for a procedure here. Trying to figure out what tools are needed. Guessing at replacing bearings, piston rings, maybe pistons(might as well cure the slap at the same time). Other than a regular HG job I'd have to totally disconnect the intake and oil pan as a start. Sources for the internal parts needed? Stock quality would be fine. Not looking for fancy/high performace just reliability. Do I just plain old need my head examined? I've got about 1/2 dozen 2.5's around here needing HG's or bearings. Thought I might actually try fixing one. All the HG engines also had rod knock(not piston slap, rod knock). How much more time and specialty tools than a HG job? Thanks in advance for the thoughts.

I'd say illegal. Didn't you have to do the HG's on this as well?

That's what I was thinking but didn't know for sure. I know I have a car with the TC lockup solenoid bad and my generic ODBII reader read it.

I definatley resemble that remark but it'll improve here shortly - for how long is the question. I've got similar stashes of parts for air-cooled VW's as well. Complete interiors, chrome bumpers, etc. Garages and sheds are NEVER big enough.

I have stock ones off a 97 that I was gonna Ebay. I already have some pics but I'm out the door to look at another OBW. If you may be interested PM me. Then we can see if they'd work for you.

WHen they go bad they don't leak. Often the fluid gets dirtier because it's probably the rubber coming apart. Same thing as a master cylinder for brakes. Either could be bad. Of not bled properly. I've replaced a dozen slave's and no masters.

If possible I'd position the car in the best position to burp it after you re-add the coolant.

o.k. I spent easter morning with 3 USMB windows open and have 9 pics in my album I'll try and posting some here. Garage is a mess from the winter so I'm digging out , organizing, selling duplicates, etc. There is a lot more stuff than is in the pics in the garage including 6 cars. Then there is sheetmetal, radiators, bumber covers, wheels, etc outside. Ypipes and exhaust stuff in the rafters. I have too much stuff! Perhaps I'll take more pics when it gets cleaned up a bit. Assuming that I get these pics to post properly. First one shows the tarps I use to heat a corner of the 40x40 building. part of the workbench mess: Some engines there are about a dozen or so here for parts: another lift and surroundings pic: More stuff: More stuff including the new cart that isn't loaded down yet: A small shelf of small parts. Two of many: If this gets too big or other issues I'll change it. Never posted pics before. This garage was really setup to work on my antique VW's but last year I didn't get much done to them. Was too busy working on Suby's. Gonna try and balance it out a little better this year. This is a hobby after all. Hey - it looks like it worked! I found some early 90's Legacy wheel centers/lug covers that I'm gonna Ebay. Duplicates(and more) of mirrors, cup holders, starters, alternators, AC compressors, perhaps coil pacs, even heads if worthwhile. Most of what I have is 95 to 99. I do have some stray 92 Legacy, 2001 25 SOHC and just a Ypipe and intake from a 2003 Baja. If you need anything and are willing to part with a few bucks drop me a PM. I also have some excellent condition 13" hubcaps from a 88 GL-10 on Ebay right now. They were apparently stored upside down in the car. Just learning the whole Ebay thing. I have bought and sold from members here. I'm just getting so many parts that I need to thin the heard a little. Whatever money I get goes back into the garage/tools/etc. Otherwise I just keep the stuff on the shelf incase I end up needing it.

I had suggested sending the rad out for cleaning and pressure testing in a PM when all this started last night. Folks run all kinds of crap through these cars in addition to a new rad cap and thermostat before realizing what the repair really entails. Perhaps the OP should post the PM's that several of us replied to. Seems like we're all basically saying the same stuff. After all we've all seen this before.

The bumper covers and lights will interchange. And I realize trying to save a buck. But locally that junk bumper cover goes for 150, then 50-65 for each fog light, more if you need the holder as well. 150 is sounding fair.

I was looking for a sticky or other procedure on how to put photo's in a post. This was a rare thread about it that I could find. There's gotta be a sticky somewhere isn't there? Somthing that I can bookmark since the memory isn't always so hot? I don't want to host them myself, use photobucket, etc. They are cropped and small. Thanks.

Well - that makes a few of us then.

I use lock-ease in every car that is subjected to being outside in the winter in all the door locks. All my vehicles, friends vehicles, etc. Never used if for ingitions but it does make sense. I've actually had luck w/PB Blaster on ignitions and locks getting them free'd up. I'll have to keep an eye out for this tri-flow product.

I've always done them out of the car. On a 2.2 I believe they would be easy to do. The 2.5 has less room. I use fel-pro kits but some recomment Suby only. Too bad all that other work was just done. Would have been a good time to yank the engine, do the baffle plate, valve covers, spark plugs, etc.

My local dealer used to cut them from the vin for 3 bucks. Now they say 28 bucks. Title, drivers license, I think they mayneed to fill out a form or something else as a CYA move. Said too many repo guys were getting keys, etc. State was cracking down. But it could have just been turned into yet another "profit center". For 3 bucsk I just always had them cut from the vin. Now that they are 28 bucks Lowe's works for me.

I've had this happen. Replaced rear struts - no alignment.

Recent thread here about this. This week or last. DIscussing anti-seize, etc. Common problem. Relatively easy to prevent but a pain when that prevention wasn't taken.

Never bought a "blem" battery. Interstate does sell the cheap powervolt's that are pretty much junk. I used to buy a decent amount of the Powervolt universal batteries(top and side posts on the same battery). IIR "Blem" tires don't carry any warranty so I'd expect the batteries to be the same.

Still - nothing beats the correct tool for the job. Especially when it's been botched before. I used to do it that way mostly when the engine was on the stand. Then I priced the factory tool, decided to have one made instead. Personally I feel much better now. I have one for 2'2.s (and early 2.5's) and later 2.5's. I just think a much better job is done when the crank bolt socket is literally coming through the middle of the tool holding the harmonic balancer from turning. You have both handles side by side and it's much easier to torque. Anyways - doesn't matter - he's too far away. But I'd still highly recommend buying, borrowing, renting the appropriate tool. If it happens again to this same engine I doubt he'll be as fortunate(lucky).

You may wanna update your profile to better reflect where you are. Not just you a lot of folks have a town in there that means nothing to most of us. There is a Pittsfield PA and I was gonna offer my tool to hold the harmonic balancer, and had used harmonic balancers if necessary. I wish you well. Perhaps it was caught in time.