davebugs

10w30 it is. I searched and didn't find any recommendations searching for "engine tick" and other similar strings. So rather than delete this I'll let it go for now so that I know next time.

I've lived through this before and am not an electrical wiz. It was an alternator (both times). If you had posted what town/state you are in perhaps someone close has a good used one. I usually keep about a half dozen. If it's intermittent taking it off and taking it to have tested may give you an answer, maybe not.

Not piston slap, not rod knock, sounds like a tick. Just drained the old oil and would like to refill it very soon. Anyone run into this? 5w50 + MMO (thin oil) 10w30+Lucas (thick oil) Something in between? Won't matter? I'm leaning towards 10w30 by itself.

Alternator is my guess.

I've used a lot of Bosch being a VW guy. But I've had problems with them in lots of cars - including Volvo's. It seems the more exotic (multiple tips, rare metals) the more issues on a variety of cars. I use the NGK Vgroove's with the green printing on all the Suby's that I do. Around 2 bucks each even at the big chain stores. I have seen and removed well used Autolite plugs out of 2.2's and you certainly can't get any cheaper than them. I only use Champions in lawn mowers. I used to be able to tell on an air cooled VW if it had ever had Champions in it. I think their thread pitch was a little off for that application. I've even started putting NGK's in VW 2.0's with great success. NGK is OEM for a lot of the GM Saturns. I have used some Nippon/Denso's but not enough to have an opinion. Price, performance, and not being finicky NGK's are shaping up to be my favorite plug. And the price isn't bad at all. Even the "laser platinums" the GF's 2006 Impreza takes really aren't that bad cost wise - IIR under 8 bucks. I think their interval had to do with no anti-seize from the factory more than wear. They looked fine when removed. BTW - this has all the potential of becoming like an oil brand thread. It'll be interesteing to see where it goes. My observations above were from real world experience, we'll have to see who's experience's differ and what the scientists have to say.

Unplug atleast one plug wire from the coil pack - but leave it close to the coil pack. Have someone crank the car. It should spark to the coil pack or the the engine(intake manifold). That'll double check the sensor(I forget if crank or cam, ignitor, coil pack, etc.) and perhaps if the crank/cam sprockets/associated sensors and computer are working together, I've done a decent amount of these swaps with no issues. When it doesn't make sense it's usually something stupid/obvious and you're overthinking it.

If the TB was recently done and you have proof that the HG's were done by someone that knew what they were doing I'd do a poor man's tranny flush to hopefully postpone torque bind. Usually I buy broken cars and the HG's seem to go between 110 and 180k so I'm guessing yours have been done. Tranny and coolant are the two most neglected things in a car. Folks are often religous about oil changes and ignore everything else.

IIR wires at the dealer cost me 80-90 bucks? Generics half that or a little more. NGK plugs are like 2 bucks each. Just think of the spark plug swivel socket and socket extension collection that you get to build (if you don't already have them) for this simple job. It's about the only time I use an extension that's roughly an inch. Mine is Snap-on and I don't know if I've seen another brand so short. A swivel head ratchet of some style is also handy.

I use and I believe it's the common recommendation. NGK green V grooved. BKR5E-11 I believe they are. They are like 2 bucks a piece. Have GREEN writing on them. Use anti-seize.

It's tough to remember to leave the valve covers off and have the TB on - just doesn't seem right somehow. As Gloyale says: "I have seen a few DOHC motors were the hashmarks ( l l ) on the drivers side Cam pulleys don't quite line up right when using the marks on the belt. But ther is ussually also orange or white paint marks, as if factory marks, that DO line up precisely. In those cases I assume the paint is the correct mark,as the hashes are as close as they can be, and the engines have all run great. It did bother me quite abit the first time I tried for an hour and could never get he damn lines to be just right no matter how I set it." Really makes a fella paranoid knowing it's an interference engine. But probably half or more of the ones that I have done are like this. I also recently had a Subaru Tech do a TB on a friends 97 2.5 with a Dayco belt. He swore it didn't line up well either compared to a Subaru belt. Just an FYI - Dayco is all that I have ever used.

I read the same stuff. And the load does cause the cams to spin. I don't have those tools. I'm guessing I've only done about a dozen TB jobs on them though. More often I'm replacing them with a 2.2. Guess I've been lucky 100% of the time.

The above, plus patience, perhaps spark plug pliers, I often use hose pliers. Twist before pulling. Use Subaru replacements, I apply dielectric grease a bit liberally using a Qtip into the plug wire boot and hopefully the connector. Have your vin# when you go to Subaru. I believe some of those the spark plug openings in the heads that the boot fits into are teardropped(don't know the real name) and some square. You may want to do the plugs while you have access. Don't waste all the swear words on just the wires.

I had your same question some ago and Tom said it wouldn't be a problem. It wasn't. I even forgot and removed a TB without lineing things up first one time. And escaped unscathed. Yes I could have just been lucky - but I'm not really that lucky. I had heard/read that the valves can even contact each other (intake/exhaust) but in my cases they were still "tied together" by the TB so after I centered the pistons I was o.k. But it IS an interference engine.

I keep cheap white spray paint to mark strut and bolt locations if I need to undo the strut bolts. I usually seperate it at the balljoint. As I'm in the rustbelt if I ruin the BJ no biggie - chances are the boot was ripped or wimpy anyways.

That's where the GF's was leaking on both sides. The Lucas fixed hers - YMMV. FYI I called the dealer she works with. They actually recommended used. Said a lot of the reman's they installed leaked. I thought the Lucas was worth a shot. Lasted roughly 2 years and another 100k (total 240k on the original rack) until car was totalled. It's less than 10 bucks. Worst that can happen is that it continues to leak. If you put ATF additive in it I don't know what that would do. I don't know if it has the same detergent level, etc. If it's cold bring the Lucas in the house overnight before using it. It is about the same consistency as the ATF additive.

Great to know. I recently swapped a throttle body because I had stolen the TPS from the intake that I needed to use and didn't know how to reset the TPS if I just replaced it.

For some reason a common issue on Subaru's - more than any other car I'v ever seen. I save some of these and other folks probably do as well. Or you might consider new? I have some used ones I'd consider selling. I've never sold any before - usually I use them myself on other cars. I believe both of th eones I currently have the rubber boot is still in place as well.

This is often a brake caliper hanging up. Add that to the list of non-engine things to check out. Infact I'd put it at the top of the list if the engine is sounding fine and no CEL.

The rears never seem to get much wear. Calipers usually get stuck out. They usually have a lot of pressure pushing them out. But not much pressure when they retract. Infact on my old VW's I've had the rubber hose deteriorate to the point that it causes this issue. I'd pull the bracket that the pads ride in as was suggested. File the bracket (after removing the stainless clips) to remove rust, reinstall clips. Then see how well the pads ride on those clips. Even new pads often need a little work with the file to get them to move easy enough. I add some anti-seize as well. Going into this I'd think the caliper wouldn't be the most likely issue. You may be able to get an idea if it's totally frozen by trying to compress it.

Wondered what was up with the color/manufacturers. Only time I haven't changed the oil her local dealer was running a promo and she had oil & filter done there for less than 20 bucks. I think they were looking for late model tradins. They installed a Blue filter but my local dealer has the Black ones. Perhaps I'll stock up on some. One Blue filter in 72k is tollerable. I haven't switched to the Advance Powerflo's(Purolator) for her car like I run in my cars (except the VW TDI) and the cars I fix and sell. When Blue is all that's available I see Wix in her future. Looking at the powerflow the bypass valve looks radically different,

The GF's 2006 Impreza 2.5 NA I had to buy another cap style filter remover. It's a weird size. The one I bought is stamped steel(as opposed to pot metal/aluminum and plastic like some that I have) and actually can do 2 sizes. The one on her Suby and one a little smaller. Now I have 6 cap type's that take a ratchet or extansion, 2 normal band types, and a few of those band types that tape a socket extension. Very close to the exhaust. Not just a bit of a burn hazard but I always get a little oil on the exhaust. I took a new filter to the parts store to get the correct size. It's still the worst fitting one that I have.

Usually the pumps leak. But sometimes the rack leaks. I've had tremendous success with Lucas PS fix stuff. Including on the GF's old 96 Impreza. Was leaking badly, boots missing, etc. Added Lucas IIR at about 140k. When it was totalled w/240k I had still never repaired anything and never had to add fluid again.

After you undo the clamps sometimes a pic and PB blaster helps. What halps an awful lot is hose pliers - come in a set. Harbor frieght has a cheap set of 3. Sunnex(sp?) has a better set that are more angled but IIR they are like 60 bucks and the haror freight ones (with less angle) were under 20 - maybe 15 bucks. Disconnect the hoses before unbolting the filter. There is a rubber gasket between the holder and filter is it hasn't deteriorated too badly. Simple quick job. Since it's under pressure I lay a rag over the hose before pulling it apart. It will spill gas and smell no matter what so as has already been suggested do it outside.

I use nail polish for a buck at Wal-Mart. Bottle seals well, has a nice little brush, doesn't dry out, dries fast, and on cam sprockets and stuff you can still see the original hash mark. And it even smells good.