davebugs

If that's what it is they are a bit pricey. I have a used one that I'd sell but perhaps someone closer to you has one. I can't tell since I haven't a clue where you live.

I bought the whole 100 dollar kit able to test all the fluids to sometimes help assess HG issues on the 2.5 SOHC's. It'll do oil, tranny, coolant, and AC. Comes in a nice case with the spiffy glasses, IIR a flashlight and a 110 light. Was a quality new intake gasket used? Most guys have replacing these 4.3 intake down to a science like the 3100's. In my dad's I put in the Advance universal stuff that looks like Mountain Dew. BTW dad's truck is a 98 GMC Sonoma. My local rad shop says to NOT use the original stuff, and that there are many issues and law suits about it.

I'm running into this already in my area - a bit of a shortage. And I didn't do THAT many swaps in the last year or so. And then the JY's and I are bidding on the same car at some of the salvage auctions. Either way I end up paying more. I just prefer to hear them run and do a compression check if possible.

I've got some used cam sensors if you're interested. I'd imagine others would as well. Crank sensors are a little harder to come by - a lot of the time they are gaulded in there pretty good and break when trying to remove them. Certainly easy enough to change.

The good news is that every time you remove the engine from the same car it seems to go quicker. I did a 99 Forester last year - needed to pull the engine(s) 4 times! So after all the time and $ in parts, getting heads checked, maintenance items(TB, Idlers, etc) if it doesn't work out it'll be easier to pull next time.

Yep. I'd rather "chance" an unknown 2.2 than a known 2.5 with issues. You can bet it wasn't the first time overheated. Now you need to worry about heads, block, rod knock(not like they have bulletproof bearings to begin with). You should really try to "smarten them up a bit" about the 2.2. I think you'd be doing them and yourself a favor rather than going down the road with this 2.5. To say nothing of the quality of life going forward. I fix some 2.5's and swap in 2.2's. In this case I'd never even consider saving this engine.

To the OP. Aside from the very good suggestions about your project. May I suggest that you change the color of your text. I believe it gets my vote for the hardest to read post since the upgrade. And Welcome. There is a lot of excellent information and members here.

I may have most of what you need. I'm thinking of parting a 97 OBW with new OEM headlights and a bunch of other good parts. Also a Silver hood, Blue fenders, etc. And you're not that far away.

Bump. I usually have enough used ones laying around that I've never purchased a cam or crank sensor. Just knock sensors (which there are many #'s of).

The clamps are your friend. And will stop the belt from jumping on the teeth of the cams and crank. I do the passenger side last (which isn't under any load). If it does move the drivers side or the crank the clamps still hold the belt inplace and you'll be o.k. The clamps don't stop the belt from moving. It just stops the belt from moving and becoming mis-aligned to the sprocket(s). When you are all done, and turn the crank if necessary a little bit - all 3 should be ligned up. Install the last idler, pull the tensioner pin - you're all done. Remove the clamps. I turn it over atleast twice by hand to make sure the marks still lign up.

It won't keep the belt from moving but it will keep the belt pegged to the mark on the cams & crank. So that when it moves back in place it'll be o.k.

Always hash marks. Not arrows or dots. The pics I sent you aren't totally alignes (no TB inspalled) but you can see what to lign up. If I were better at posting pics I would have just posted them in this thread.

Look for endwrench links her eon how to do a TB change. You'll have an email in a few minutes. You go be the hash mark at the BACK of the crank.

PM me an email. The GF is getting something to eat. I can send you a pic of the clamps that I use.

I'm telling ya. Go buy 3 of those plier type clamps. 2 can be on the small side (for the cams) and a larger one for the splined crank pulley - mine are all the same size. I cut a piece of old TB to put on the bottom even thought the clamp is plastic. If it's a 95 2.2 it's non interference so no need to worry about re-aligning things up. But yes - traditionally the drivers side is under load and prone to spin when doing TB jobs. That's why I do the passenger side last - and you have the extra play on that side from not having that lowest idler installed yet.

That lower idler is the key for me on a SOHC - I may have been the one who recommended it. On the 2.5's I don't have a set approach - they arent' nearly as pleasant. My other trick is to use those plier type clamps to keep the TB on the cam pulleys and the crank. I do them outta the car thought. I may be able to post a pic later today. I'm finishing one up this afternoon/evening. Also I have another harmonic balancer tool being made. I'll have to check but I may be able to sell sturdy tools for the harmonic balancers for like 50 bucks. I think the last one cost me like 45 and don't know the price of steel lately. The 2.2's and early 2.5's take one size and later 2.5's take another size. The 2.5 tool is excellent, I have the second version of the 2.2 tool being made now. Not rocket science - just beyond my abilities and equipment.

A one year bit of a nightmare. I may have a thread here about my recent experience - but it may have been while the site was having issues. They seem to be really prone to bearing failure. Last one I did took 3 engines to get a good one. I also had someone show up here last week with one with 80k that had pretty decent bearing noise - not rod knock - but bearing noise. A lot of folks already avoid 99 OB's due to the kinda rare auto tranny's. This Forester you can't do a 2.2 swap on - the electronics don't line up. Two plugs where the 2.2's have 3, etc. Happy hunting. I have a fella locally who contacted me who thinks he removed a good one fro someone's Forester because the customer had run it hot. If you do get an engine might as well do the HG's while it's out. Those 2.5 SOHC's leak externally typically on the drivers side. Good luck.

Excellent collection of links. I also used to use a link to a comcast.net writeup.

Did you follow a good precedure (like the Endwrench procedure)? Make sure you used the correct mark on the crank pulley(one in the back). Everything plugged in (I'm thinking crank and cam sensors).

I believe Subaru360 is north of town but I don't know if he works on other folks cars. It might help to know what you're thinking needs done.

I ran into similar bolts on a Saturn steering column. I used a hack saw and dremel to cut a slot and used a screwdriver to back them put. Then I re-used them.

99's are a poor year as far as easy options. I've had unpleasant experiences with the engine - bearing troubles mostly. Had another one here this past sunday. 80k and bearings sounding bad. I think the tranny is like the OB - kinda rare as well.

Used the kit tonight for a 95 2.2 - all GMB bearings. Some in a GNB box, some in a PCI box, all say GMB on them.

If it's been 2 months I'm guessing he got it burped. Did he check the heads? If they were out of spec then new gaskets could be leaking. You can also check the thermostat but assuming it wasn't replaced I'd have a bit of a hard time thinking it's your problem now. Although they do have to fail at some point. Is it blowing it out the overflow or just the gauge is getting hot? Coolant smelling funny?

The last Ebay new tensioner I purchased was from theimportexperts and it was NTN. Seemed like a decent part. Their bearings usually are GMB. Actually I haven't opened the latest box from them but that's what they have been shipping.