davebugs

What Nipper said. It will act like a broken swaybar on one side. ( I think I can see the next question coming).

Look for it visually broken - it's just heavy plastic. There are some rubber inserts IIR. You may want to check them for wear. I don't bother saving these when I part out a car. Recently I had to buy one for the rear - 45 bucks. I saved one off the last parts car!

Don't understand the question - a pic would help. Usually everything you need is on the engine. They get lazy and cut throttle cables, heater hoses, IAC hoses, etc. I've never had a problem with wireing harness.

Bad news - I'm not using this 97 2.2. But the answer would still be nice. After pressure washing I removed the baffle plate to reseal before placing the engine on the stand. Sludge, tremendous sludge. Donor car had a bad tranny. There was some noise at the back of the engine but I figured it was the tranny pump. This engine sounded good, compression was good all the way around, but I won't put it in a car to sell. Bummer - now I'm held up until I locate an engine. Preferably a 95 2.2 atuo (obviousely).

Last chance at finding someone who has just done the replacement without worrying about the canister. I'm leaning towards just installing the 2.2 as it is (expects the canister to be in the rear of the car). I got to looking at an intake off a 96 here but I've stolen the TPS, hoses, EGR, etc. I could combine 3 intakes (the original 96 2.5 throttle body, the 96 Impreza intake with the canister plumbing, and most hoses from the donor engine and the 96 2.5). Getting awful messy. I already gotta reseal the engine - everything but HG's and intake, TB and components, WP, etc. I'd love to hear that someone just installed one of these, didn't worry about the canister not being there, and all was well. I myself may have actually done it - I just can't remember. Talk about annoying!

I pay around 120 for the pair to have the heads resurfaced, checked for cracks, and cleaned. No actual valve or stem work. Sometimes 100, sometimes 150. I do have good (not overheated) heads here - I started a thread yesterday. I just removed the intake. Engine had bad bearings. Coolant looked good, rad was full, overflow looked decent, 133k one owner. I'd be willing to sell "uncooked" heads. PM me if interested. Long block is now on a furniture dolly and not buried yet. I may be able to pull the heads tonight if you're interested. I'm concentrating on the 2.2 swap right now.

If the new Ypipe is still loose mate it up to the old one to give you a better idea of the hole alignment. The exh manifold bolts (and nuts) are a bit pricey. But the studs I think are standard - if you take one into a parts store they may have them. Those coated nuts that are expensive I have only found at Subaru. But they seem to work well for the exhaust, motor mounts, and eng to trans nuts - they don't seem to corrode.

Possible. But you'd need the vin from the car the engine came out of to do that.

BTW I'd assume that you need to add the clutch kit/flywheel resurface to the JDM price. Also pretty much anytime I have a 2.5 out of the car I do HG's - they are just a ticking timebomb as far as I'm concerned.

Miles? I've never done a JDM so I don't know about their HG issues. I'd try to find someone on this site to do the work. That price for TB, HG, etc and clutch seems a bit high. Like 500-1000-1,500 high off the top of my head. I usually figure about 1,500 for that job in parts and labor (mind you I don't work on other peoples stuff).

I use assembly lube on the inside. And try to leave the outside dry if possible. Perhaps others will confirm this or have other opinions.

Generally I believe the interference are the new style tensioner. Atleast in my experience the new tensioners on the 2.2's seem to be showing up on engines just around the time they went interference. Don't know if they are officially linked or not. I have a thread about canister plumbing to help determine if I'm gonna use this 97 2.2 in my current swap. I don't have the TB covers off it yet. I expect it to be new style tensioner. If it is and the old "pencil" style tensioner bolts up I'll probably try it. I almost always have the engines out that makes it all easier. And an overheating engine would be a 2.5 and if overheating (HG's) are the only issue much more $ to gamble on if the old style tensioner doesn't work. I'm tied up (she's about out of the shower) for the weekend. If any of you folks with a research bug wanna try and find out if both tensioners excert the same force I'd appreciate that research.

GG, Thanks for the effort. I will look for the thread you originated, and the code that you reported. I was looking today. It looks like I could actually mimic the current setup by swapping a Solenoid under #3 intake and the throttle body from the 96 2.5 onto the 97 2.2 and running a few hoses inplace of the metal lines on the 2.5 intake that go up to the canister. Don't know how big of a pain it will be (old hoses and all). But I'm sure it'd be a lot easier with the engines out of the car. I'd like to just put it in as is but I'm afraid of a code. Have a safe trip. Thanks for the input. Dave

gg, Would you be willing to read the codes to see if we can tell? Hopefully the EGR and Canister would have different codes - anyone know? FYI I should have a few complete 2.2 intakes w/EGR here if you're interested or head up this way. I need to pull them from parts engines with HG or bearing issues. Guess I may have to be the guinea pig if no-one else chimes in. Dave

He's correct. As long as you're willing to put up with the smell you can run it like that. Getting to it is a big job. Need to remove either the engine or tranny. I pull the engine to do other maintenance at the same time. Price of the car should allow for this. If the price is good and you like the car I'd probably buy it and run it until it annoyed me then do the baffle plate, clutch, perhaps timing belt, etc.

I will do that this evening - thanks for the suggestion. I think of endwrench for procedures more than for explanations. I have the worst time searching on that site. I even have bookmarks to TB writeups, HG writeups. But if I try to search for them often I can't find them. Luckily I've saved the links.

I may try this on the one I'm doing now. I keep a kit in stock (Ebay kit) and they are usually for the old style tensioners. I haven't gotten the TB cover off yet - still trying to see if I'll have EVAP issues (I have a thread about that). But I've got atleast a half dozen old style tensioners here and a complete Idler kit so I may try retrofitting the old style. If I can and do I'll post back here so that other folks know if noone else has confirmed the swap by then. I install Dayco belts. And new all metal Cardone WP's. I like the Suby WP gasket so I get one of those. Usually just inspect the Thermostat and put it back in (OEM or Aftermarket). Of all the things that would be easy to replace after the engine is in the car that you do with a TB job this is the easiest if there is an issue. I usually do new Suby Crank and cam seals, seal baffle plate, valve covers if leaking, spark plugs, check oil pump, etc. I've been using the Ebay kits for some time with no issues so far. I do sell the cars but I resell to the same families often (about 75% are folks I've sold to before or their friends). If there was an issue I'd probably have heard by now. I use a mix of Ebay(idlers), OEM - seals, aftermarket(belts, some gaskets, NGK, Advance universal coolant, etc.)

Anything you could to to paint me a better picture would be great. I won't get to installing the 97 2.2 until sunday late afternoon at the earliest. I was trying to find out how difficult it was gonna be to determine whether I should just hunt down a 95 even though I have the known good 97 2.2 here.

I was thinking the more rubberized stuff actually.

Nothing. No harm intended. At the very least you did the research to find out what the problem was and how to fix it. At the very least you were able to keep the mechanic honest. Not as fulfilling as fixing it. But you didn't get "taken" by not knowing what needed done. Not bad at all - really.

After all that you took the easy (and expensive) way out? Did you ask them how they did it? Glad it's fixed. Overheating isn't good for anything engine related.

I couldn't find any Hammerite and had to use Rustoleum. I liked Hammerite. I prepped well (no sense painting if you don't). And was disappointed with the results.. Could have been a bad batch I guess. I know it wasn't old since Rustoleum hadn't been making it that long. Ironically I own stock in Rustoleum(RPM). I've got a whole open car trailer that needs painted. I'm debating between tractor paint(cheap, bullet proof), hammered, and believe it or not black bedliner paint. Should give it more grip (my light cars won't move around, no spinning tires in the rain when loading), and wear well - atleast on the treads. A project that didn't get completed last year 'cause I was doing too many Subaru's.

May I ask how well those rubber gaskets resealed? Last time I re-used them it was on a 94, they were dry, and I ended up having to replace them. ABout 30 bucks IIR. If they worked well I'd be more likely to clean the contacts on the cars with moody guages.

I usually get fel-pro gaskets for the dual port heads and sometimes for the single ports I believe. The dealer is virtually the same price though. They just sell them seperately rather than the felpro 2 piece kit. Fel-pro is fine for exhaust (and intake) as far as I'm concerned. But no real price difference on the exhaust gaskets. FYI some independent shops can't seem to get the single port Fel-Pro's but Advance seems to be able to. You'd think since they are 96 and up it would be a pretty common listing. The parts stores are much closer than the dealer to me.

Both engines have the EGR valve. It's where those hoses run to (or don't run to) that's the issue. I don't recall if the canister was in the RR wheel well on the 97 donor but it pretty much had to be. The filler tube was totally shot so I didn't poke around any more in that area.