davebugs

Ever done the hammered paint on the wheels before? There used to be a special paint company that made excellent stuff (I forget the name). Now Rustoleum or somebody makes some hammered. I brush painted (actually roll mostly) a box trailer's fenders that I have a few years ago. I must say stones and such knocked it off real easily. Like it was worse than the generic factory black paint. My car hauler trailer white rims are getting pretty ugly/rusty. I was debating about hammered or tractor paint (it's definately NOT a show piece). Probbaly not white if hammered - more like silver/grey. Just wondering if anyone has used any hammered that has weathered well on wheels. And yes - I'd certainly use bead sealer.

o.k. I've always put off doing a 96 but it's Blue - and I'm tired of Green(I don't like Green to begin with). One owner, new tires, etc. Anyways I have a donor 97 2.2 auto (w/EGR) but the 96 had the emissions canister up front by the rad. The 97 doesn't have this plumbing. I already scrapped the 97. Will I get a CEL(I can't have one). Should I try and chase down a 95 w/EGR? (I also have the Y pipe from the 2.2). I've done a decent amount of swaps but don't remember this particular problem. But then again my memory isn't that great. I'm stalled a day with the old engine out. and not able to re-seal the 2.2 going in so I thought I'd ask. Dave

The real question is why was the non-fouler in there? I'd be pulling hte head to check the valves. After all they were trying to fix something. Maybe it wasn't the spark plug hole threads.

If you've got a big bubble, and particularly a non OEM thermostat this hasn't worked for me. Perhaps you'll be luckier. Search here for the video on burping. I also raise the front of the car on the side the rad cap is on. Often when having problems I pull it up on one rhino ramp. Don't forget to drain it (I use the lower hose) Before trying to fill through the top hose. It's a pain sometimes. But you should really have it figured out by now between the posts and suggestions here.

Search here for "burp", "burping", etc. I think these is even a link to a video. 2.5's are moody but I've had the same issue with 2.2's. Usually removing the lower hose to drain the rad, then attaching it and taking off the upper hose to fill the engine until the top hose is full. Then connect it and top off the radiator. That's all it usually takes on a 2.2.

Small ones will work for the cams. Mine are maxed out on the crank. Extra hands are nice - especially when you work alone like I do most of the time. After several times of the TB "jumping" on the crank while trying to keep the drivers side cam in place and making sure the belt is lined up was enough to look for a solution. The tensioner without the pin pulled still puts weight on the belt since there is no way to hold it up (a fella runs out of hands). I may have actually seen it here - I forget. But it is an excellent idea so I doubt it was mine.

Hey - liquid Cascade is one of the best coolant system flushes you'll ever use. Even does a good job on the ceramic shower stall (recommended by a tenant of mine). I have a locally mixed excellent environmentally friendly cleaner. Best degreaser I've ever used. It does suck all the moisture out of your hands is you use it straight(there is a warning on the label). Throw it in a foamy sprayer, get to the carwash, spray down the engine compartment and hose it down. But it works excellent in the overflow's with the pebbles. I've got 2 soaking right now in the spare side of the laundry tub.

The drivers side is under load. I use the plier type clamps to hold the belt on the correct place on the drivers cam sprocket, then on the end of the crank(with some old TB on the bottom to protect the splines, the pass side is easy. I use 3 clamps total for kicks. I leave them on until I pull the tensioner pin. FTY the SOHC is much easier than the DOHC in my opinion.

His should be a SOHC - you're thinking a DOHC.

Sometimes we all go brain dead. Something I've done more than once is tighten the crank bolt without the TB cover in place. I step back thinking i'm done. Then notice how nice the idlers and new TB look - then it occurs to me. I usually use permatex red on the back as well - just for extra fun. And one time I forgot to pull the pin on the tensioner. Luckily I realized my mistake before re-installing the engine.

I agree with Nipper on this. It's amazing the Subaru's that I see that have HG jobs that often they don't even bother cleaning the radiator, let alone the overflow. I haven't seen a clean overflow on a Subaru other than one I've done, or a new one. I'm usually dealing with broken cars (HG's and such) but often folks have just tried rad caps, waterpumps, T-stats, rad flush, etc. All the usual stuff but don't touch the overflow. Those 2 little bolts stop them from doing a thorough job. Yea - it's a little bit of a PITA but makes for a thorough job. And when they do the flush they are more concerned with turnaround. I'm sure there are exceptions - but they are very rare in my experience.

I use gravel. Small pieces, larger pieces, etc. with the cleaner of your choice. A handful or two. Don't forget there is a pinhole when you're shaking it. Learned this method from coating gas tanks on old cars - before I started having someone else do them. Soaking is your friend too. I try and keep a few pre-cleaned ones around.

In our area good rear wheel well's are hard to come by. PM me and I can give you a few JY's to call that I've had success finding Suby parts at. But when I looked for early 90's front fenders/panels I struck out. Never looked for the later model stuff. I'm sure the dealer could get them. But it may be cheaper to just purchase another car. Otherwise a rust free panel from somewhere else sent to you sounds like the best option.

I second Subaru360. I "save" my good 2.5's for GT's - particularly manual GT's. Not my favorite engine - but usually the GT folks want the bigger engine.

I think the mechanic is full of BS. But I used to do some Volvo's (until I wised up a bit). A common problem was the fuel pressure regulator. This would end up dumping fuel into the oil. Thinning is out and raising the lever so that it burned it with white smoke that looked like a head gasket. But if you're not mechanical, or independently wealthy, I doubt a used Volvo is the car for you.

My 2001 VW TDI STINKS - I'd much rather smell Diesel fumes. VW put some sort of catalytic converter on it. It really STINKS. I just bought a 99 a week or so ago - another TDI - smells like Diesel fumes - I like it!

They are a PITA. If the car actually has one I never reinstall it. I should have several laying around if you need one off 95 and up's - probably the same. But look at where it is. You really think much is gonna get between the engine/trans and that crossmember? Unless you're doing mud boggs or something? If you want one PM me. But I think you're crazy.

For vaccum line size (all but the brake booster) get the size that goes to the gizmo on the passenger side strut tower, or to the charcoal canister on the pass side "framerail" up by the radiator. It's all the same size.

No worries. I often have trouble finding what I'm looking for with search but this code is often asked. There is an awful lot of excellent information here and good folks as well.

Start by searching for P0420 here. Read a few threads.

Something to think about if the HG's in it were done. Folks have 2-3k in cash burning a hole in their pocket. Starts 3rd week in January now. Those folks that get the loan shark tax refund advance checks that gotta spend them right away. You should witness the public auctions. I don't vary my prices. After C-mas it gets slow until towards the end of Jan as I just stated. Now income tax checks come in weekly. Weather warms up, the income tax money props up sales until spring weather. By then you have lots of folks buying cars, kids graduating, etc. If you find a car you like for 2-3k or less BUY IT!! They are still selling fast. The cheaper the faster they sell since folks see that income tax money as free money. They forget that they paid it in before getting it back. Some of those folks it truely is free money (yours and mine) and they are the ones most likely to pay the loan shark rates since it really isn't their money they are wasting (it's ours).

One of the reasons you're looking for answers here is experience. And experience has told you OEM(Subaru). Frankly I've found the 2.5's to be much more moody about wires. Often on the 2.2's the aftermarkets seem to work on. The cars I redo usually have aftermarket on them. On the 2.5's I only go Subaru. If I needed new wires I'd do OEM or perhaps try the NGK's on a 2.2. But that's what I'd limit my choices to. You can now make you're own informed decision. Worst case you'll need to buy wires twice. Then you can add to the experience here.

I use both - KBB more. SInce my NADA book only shows loan value, retail, etc. Some folks use Edmunds - never tried them. But yes - a conbination. I usually try to buy, redo, and sell cheaper than or right around the KBB Private Party fair price. I actually have a cheapie right now that I'm having difficulty selling - possibly beacuse it hasn't been redone. 2,800 for a 97 OBW. I know they weren't keeping up with prices (even online) when gas was 4 bucks a gallon. So I don't know how often they re-assess and if they strickly do it lets say every 6 months or will move up the timetable due to market conditions. I know NADA publishes relatively frequently but I think that has more to do with selling books that real significant price changes. Atleast on the cars that I follow.

Search around. The cliffnotes version: Must have an EGR (95 automatics, all the 96 and up's that I've seen but others have seen 96's, etc that didn't have an EGR) 95 dual port exaust - no exhaust work needed, non interference. 96 (and up) single port exhaust - you'll need a Y pipe., non interference. 97 and up. Interference, and you need the Y-pipe. 2.2's are much more reliable. You want to reseal it anyways. Baffle plate, cam*crank seals, Orings, spark plugs, timing belt(idlers&tensioner?), etc. See if valve covers need replaced. But seriousely - search around here - very common swap. I'm about to do another one this week myself.

95 2.2 auto (with the EGR) is the easiest. Any 2.2 with an EGR 95-99 will work - but you'll need the Y pipe. Much information here. SEARCH is your friend. I'm assuming it's a DOHC 2.5.