davebugs

In 97 the engine went interference - but I don't recall any other significant changes. But I don't do nearly as many Impreza'a. Search for some of the threads with online manual download links to see if there is one for what you're looking for.

Start soaking it with the penetrant of your choice. If you just want to remove the arm that's the easy part (compared to removing the wiper motor). Little plastic cap that covers a nut on the end of the arm. Pry that puppy up, probably a 10mm nut (I forget). Work the wiper arm off. If you're unable they make wiper arm pullers - an auto parts probably loans these. But get it soaking.

The cars on my side of the state SW PA aren't so good on the japanese rust either. Underneath the body will be fine. But those rear fender wells, filler tube, etc are always issues. If you're considering a PA car check in with Subaru360 here. He redoes them and sales them all the time. I do an well but mine all seem to have a little rust. I'm doing a 96 Blue OBW next. One owner, it'll be getting a 2.2. Probably take 2 weeks and probablky above your price point. I do have a 98 OBW Green 187k for sale under 3k that I haven't redone the engine but I think someone from WV is coming for it tomorrow. I'd drop Subaru360 a PM. See what he has that he's working on. Atleast you know the major maintenance and tuneup stuff would be done and possibly still be in your price range. He's near Philly/Jersey.

You've got a PM coming.

Ask around at a real (local independent) parts store. Or a local real garage(not a chain - again locally owned). These guys will know about the best guys to redo starters, alternators, radiator repair, fuel tank repair, etc. Places the chain parts and repair places don't even want to know about. Usually you'll find skilled, experienced old timers. Not a bunch of kids looking something up on the computer. Like I said a breed of folks that is thinning out. When you find one treat them fair. Typically they have been in business for many years because they treat the local professional mechanics fair. Appreciate what you have found. You'll miss 'em when they are gone. Dave

I get starters and alternators rebuilt locally when I can. Like to keep the money local if possible, price is usually better (about 40 bucks), and quality is better. Sometimes I just have him "fix" it for 20 bucks. But it's a retireing breed. Just like shoemakers. I'd imagine Tailors, etc. Skilled old timers not being replaced. It's a bit of a shame actually. My guy will retire in March. I also have him rebuild antique ones (try that at the local chain store). There are some "electrical expert" places that will do the same work for double or triple the price (but the quality isn't as good - still better than a chain store remain). Often I have good used ones rebuilt before installing them in a car. For 40 bucks why not. Half the time he redoes them while I wait. Can't beat that.

Last Legacy that I had with an alternator problem acted just like this. Noticed the RPM issue - thought perhaps fuel filter or something. Anyways. Let it "cool down" headed back home - didn't get far. The battery was good and would rejuvinate a bit. But the car was running totally off the battery. Kept going shorter and shorter distance until I just called for a ride and went and got the trailer. So yea - I'd say the odds were real good.

This is what my most often problem is for this code. Easy to spot. Next time after pumping gas crawl underneath. If the plastic is still in place that's a bad sign - probably hasn't been replaced yet.

He had to be replying to the wrong thread. I second to ignore that post.

86Subaru - glad you got it sorted out. I just got on to post about the bolt. EVO - do you live at NAPA looking for weird stuff? I no longer have a NAPA local. They were the only ones stocking a weird size helicoil set for my VW. They were the only ones with parking brake shoes for a late 90's OBW(that you told me about). And thay stock 1.25pitch 10mm bolts - and long ones at that ? Bad news is that they are all independent so you have to call them all. They can't tell you the inventory of the NAPA in the next town.

If you're talking about the adjusting long bolt they are like 4-5 bucks (IIR)at the dealer - and mine doesn't stock them. One time I bought a bolt and had to thread it the rest of the way up. 1.25 threads (Subaru standard). I used my threaded one then swapped to the dealer one later. Original bolt had gaulded to the little aluminum gizmo that has the jamb bolt on it. When I went to do the timing belt I couldn't save it. I couldn't find an off the shelf bolt at Lowes, Home Depot, Advance, or other hardware or auto parts stores. But I did find one that I could thread the balance of the way.

Agree about the 2.2. If you do get a 2.5 do the HG's while it's out - you know you're just on borrowed time. BTW around here a 2.2 is about 1/3 the cost of a 2.5 - and is much more reliable.

A rad won't fix your problem. However if the problem has been going on for sometime I always send it out to be flushed and pressure tested while I'm going the HG job. Locally this costs me 25 bucks. Last Forester rad I sent him he said was the dirtiest he'd ever seen. Yes - the Forester had HG issues and the kid kept driving it.

So you weren't lucky - you were average - and have HG issues. Search around here. Very common problem with a standard solution as long as you don't abuse it too long. Welcome to the club.

Would an O2 sensor problem really cause no spark? I would have NEVER checked that.

Never had that one. Infact if the cam/crank semsors were bad I wouldn't expect any spark and you've already swapped the coil pack. Unless a plug wire or plug is really bad? I'm parting a 97 Legacy now. Never needed to swap an ECU. Tell me where it is and give me something for me labor/shipping/packaging and I'll send it to you. I know it worked. It's from a 2.2 car that had tranny issues. I've done a decent amount of 2.2's inplace of 2.5's so I think it would work. Dave

One year engine. 2.5 SOHC (and no - you can't 2.2 it). External HG leak prone. Just infront of #4 cylinder - usually tough to see it's right by the cross member. Like all 2.5 SOHC's. I think the tranny's are a little unigue as well. Last one I did was a PITA. I pulled 4 engines in that vehicle. A used one w/53k HG's leaked. Pricey engines. Also seem to be known for bearing troubles judging by the number of folks who have called me looking for an engine. More than the DOHC's it seems. I bought this one with bad bearings and one of the replacement engines had bad bearings. If it's running good that's fine. I'd still put it in the air and look for the external HG leak and listen for rod knock.

Boots are easy - just require a little patience. I get generic ones that come in a black box. Never even priced original parts for this. I just keep a box (or partial box) around. Piston seals I've never done. If there is a problem there I just install a reman caliper.

I always remove them to lube things up, check the boots, etc. Just hang the caliper from a wire running to the strut spring. If you're that far into the job you wanna check the slides, etc in my opinion.

Take it for an hour ride. Usually doesn't happen for about 45 minutes. Highway speeds preferred. Watch the gauge. When she decides to get hot she will. It's not uncommon for the heat to vary a little like normal for the first 30 minutes so don't let that give you a false sense of security.

ej22 in place of a 2000 2.5 SOHC - I don't know about that swap. Think it would be ugly. I do have an engine here not torn down (bad bearings) that has heads, etc. Intake is already off. Let me know if you think you need parts and I can look at tearing it down.

The "engine side" is one of the reasons that I always pull the engine. Much easier to see the condition, clean the engine surface, etc. This "second" piece is often overlooked - especially if still in the car. I'm 50/50 on sending the heads to the shop. If they are out 4 thousanths after I clean them - off they go. If I can run a compression check w/the engine in the car and don't like what I see - off they go. I've had them wear a "ring" into the head - off they went. They never seem to need seals so if they aren't warped, and clean up well I've stopped sending them out as SOP. I always send the radiator out to be cleaned/flushed/tested as part of a HG job. Whether the PO tried a sealant or not.

Don't know I never worked on the old ones and I send heads out to be fixed. You gotta look for the original cause though. TB skip a few teeth? Cam pulley? Something caused the wreck. Something had to happen to wipe out valves in more than one cylinder - it's not like you just dropped one valve. Dave

Bent valves is the obvious choice.

S-10, 4.3. Bullet proof, common (cheap and easy parts new and used). I've had several - mostly 4WD's all through the 90's - 90's thru 99's. I still have a 90 2wd 35k and my dad has a 99? GMC Sonoma - also the Astro vans have much of the same running gear and I have a 97 Astro. The S-10's will haul what you need to. And they (and the Astro) will pull a car trailer loaded pretty well - atleast 5k. Some day I gotta get an equalizing hitch. Annoying issues someitimes. Intake gasket leaks (on the later 90's ones), Sometimes (again on later 90's) wiper motor circuit board goes. Aftermarket available. Neither a real big deal. Rangers are cheaper than S-10's and they should be. Dodge's are even cheaper - and they should be. I usually attend auctions weekly. The Jap stuff is usually just too expensive to buy and maintain. Not as many interchangable parts as a Suby. Dave