davebugs

Put the tools and parts in the cars and hire a car carrier. If local dealers or google can't help go to the local dealer auction particularly on an "off" day and see whose carriers are there. You'd likely be further ahead to get a whole carrier. Heck I'd buy cars to fill it if they are rust free TX cars and sell them when you get to PA! May pay for the move.

Bookmarket. When I disassemble cars I save this unusual stuff. Most body shops and even auto body supply places seem to have little available. Folks say stuff like "why are you removing that interior hatch panel when you don't need it". And I say because the next car the fella may have fixed the wiper motor or handle and probably screwed up some clips! Interior clips and plastic wheel liner clips are mostly what I gather. That website seemed to have decent prices, but most importantly an alternative to the dealer.

I looked into them in the past. Still seems no matter which brand there are clogging issues. Also when I researched you could just get the waste oil burner part and put in a normal oil furnace. Atleast one manufacturer offered this. I would only be using my own oil so I wasn't worried about contaminants like anti-freeze and such. It seems if you talked to owners no matter how filtered they would get clogging. It's been a few years, perhaps progress has been made.

I have a 4 post. Great for some things., not so great for others. Don't forget to get an "axle jack" or two. To be able to do things like rotate tires. I have one "axle jack" and a sliding tray that will hold a regular floor jack. Rotating tires easily is the biggest annoyance. And when you pull an engine the car "raises" when the suspension has less weight on it. For oil changes, exhaust work, most things it's great. And for me I like not having to get on the floor 4 times to set where the arms are gonna hit the car. Mine has wheels. So I can push it around empty or loaded (the ramps are only a couple inches off the floor when the wheels are on). This is handy. For instance my garage is unheated. I built almost a paint booth with tarps and put a 30k propane heater in there. In the winter I used to pull in an Outback, yank the engine, then call my dad and we'd push the car out into the cold part of the garage. I'd put the engine on a stand in the "warm part" of the garage and tear it down and do the HG's. When engine is ready we'd push the lift(with the car on it) back to the "warm" section. I lucked out. Where I originally wanted to put the lift I forgot about the garage door tracks - it wouldn't have worked. Also it's always tough to figure out how far from the 2 walls you want the lift to allow for tool boxes, shelving, whatever. This way you can simply move the lift. A 2 post you can't move around at all. I got a generic one from gregsmithequipment.com years ago. Best 2k I've spent. I recommend the aluminum ramps(that I didn't get) and the nylon wheels (which I didn't get) if you buy one. Those ramps really stick out and they get heavy removing and installing them a lot. They hurt when you walk into them.

Often discusssed - search for it P0420. On the older SUbaru's (up through 99 atleast) Seafoam through a vacuum line and/or spark plug non-foulers usually worked. Someone posted that late 2000's this no longer worked. Don't know about yours in the middle. I will say that most aftermarket cats seem to last about a year - basically one inspection. They aren't even worth anything as scrap.

yep

I've experienced an idle miss that didn't turn on the CEL (sometimes not even a code "pending"). For the vacuum leak test I've always used carb cleaner - it's plenty flamable but haven't needed to take that route in a long time. Crank sensor didn't need to be touched for oil pan or cam covers. And the wireing to it shouldn't have been touched either. Did I miss it? What BRAND are the plug wires and how old?

If no vacuum leak 2.5's are picky about plug wires. They like OEM best. What can you tell us about the plug wires?

I'm guessing I do well over 150. I was 220 lbs when I did most Subaru work. With my long Snap-on breaker bar I'd get them as tight as I could. I never worried about breaking the bolt. There are 2 bolts it seems. I think some 2.2's are shorter than some 2.5's, don' tknow about hardness. And I never had any come loose either. Sometimes for kicks I'd put red permatex on the flat surface that goes against the cogged piece that turns the belt.

Miles? maint history? That should have the DOHC 2.5 and I'd do the HG's if they are fixing the body. Usually the determining factor is if the airbags went off.

Clock spring is the ribbon cable where steering wheel meets steering column. It's all coiled up in there. Has a ribbon for horn, airbag is appropriate, radio controls on newer cars, etc. Sometimes cruise depending on the car. Anything on the rotation steering wheel that is electrinic has to have a wire in this ribbon cable.

Usually that is the clock spring. I don't know how to have you test it further. Other than pushing the horn and seeing if anything changes with the wires going into the relay.

Actually I forget. And I've replaced a few in Lagacy's and one in an Impreza 95-99. But trying to think of why there would be an extra wire in the clockspring for cruise since it's on the stalk and no tthe wheel - unless Foresters are different. I've usually seen a vacuum issue. On the one I remember IIR it was a gizmo(ball shaped IIR) near the firewall on the pass side. But my memory isn't what it used to be.

Welcome to the USMB. There is lots of historical info on the older cars and knowledgable folks too. I've dealt almost exclusively with 95-99's myself and there is a lot of good info and folks here for that era too. The very new stuff, wheel, turbo and stereo discussions there are better boards for I believe. I know I rarely find anything useful on them for myself. I'd say folks here are more serious. Fixing their daily drivers, interested in longevity and fixing things themselves, heloing others. Frankly the kinda place there I'd prefer to be ... so I am.

Folks here are good, but not mind readers. Year and model please. I'm guessing older car(since newer are sealed), and in that case you've posted in the wrong section. So please specify year and model and perhaps someone can help.

Ask around or look in phone book. If you can have it rebuilt local (a dieing art/service) IMO that is best. And usually cheapest too. My local guy (who just retired) often did it while I waited.

Your local body supply place may have the piano wire (WITH HANDLES) setup available for purchase. That and sometimes some heat are what the folks that actually know what they are doing use.

I was going to post this. ALL glass companies truck windshields on end. I'd expect there is a valid reason. Flat glass they prefer to truck standing up as well, but can truck flat glass and mirrors flat if theyhave to. I'm almost thinking one of thos ecrappy mobole van windshields makes sense. Rather than a used windshield already scratched up. And that's if you (or they) can get it out. I think most new(cheap ones - not OEM or anything good) installed are like 250.00. That's installed, removel of old one and hauled away. I won't call them a "quality install" but probably better than a person who only does a few in a lifetime.

I'm one of the folks who buys a whole used "stub" rather than play with that lateral bolt and a new bearing. I have found that easier here in the rust belt. They run me about 100 bucks delivered to me IIR. Not bad to do, no special tools needed. No concerns about the new bearing or the hub being true. Some folks frown on this. It has worked for me. And it's all because of that like 10" bolt for me. By the time you but the bolt and the stuff the bolt goes through and the bearing, and I have to take it somewhere to be pressed it adds up in $ and unpleasant work. I'd much rather swap an engine. And I could probably swap an engine quicker. It's kinda like the 2.2 swap inplace of a 2.5. Some folks have strong feelings one way or the other. I do 2.2 swaps if ANY reason to think the 2.5 has been overheated. And I usually replace the stub. One time I outsourced a RR wheel bearing job before the stub thing made sense to me. I wasn't willing to "tool up" and then take a chance at screwing up the hub where the bearing gets pressed in. The folks I had do the job I believe used a "hub tamer" so they could do it on the car.

Glad it ended well. I'm an old programmer. When things don't make any sense (like your issues) it's usually something basic that's been overlooked. Works on cars too. Folks go looking for the exotic/difficult/enormous solutions first. Along with customers lie. They don't mean to - but the info they give you is not the most reliable in the end most of the time. They truely believe what they are saying at the time. Those 2 realizations can save a lot of head banging.

ead was head - the breather hoses from the heads that go into the box before the throttle body are slightly different. From what you are saying then it really doesn't all make sense. I see why you're stumped at the present time. Wouldn't hurt to have that alternator checked just to get a warm fuzzy but you've got more than that going on. The engine wireing harnesses are likely the same anyways. The only thing that seems to differ is how many pins for knock sensor connector. That's why the plugs for the injectors always seem so tightly pulled. I have a few engine wire harnesses if you need one let me know off of engines that ran. Define in detail what you mean by "air intake" for kicks.

SHould have left the 2.2 harness onthat engine when installed. You made this swap much harder than it is. You simply install the complete 2.2 minus AC compressor and PS pump into the 2.5 body. May have to play with EVAP lines, need to mess with ead breather hoses. Alternator is up to you - I usuallyuse the 2.5. Some of those weird dash lights often hapen when alt is bad or going, but not all of them. Did anything happen to the electrical system? I thought the 2.5 just failed.

I nominate that for the FUBAR award. Really sucks. No good thoughts. Only current thought is to pull eng/trans together. Could try and cutoff rod and jhope that when it falls in that you can spin the flexplate and get all 4 bolts out. Or that it'll fall out the bottom where that stupid cover plate is supposed to go. But it it jambs you're screwed. If you end up needing a flexplate I have some.

Thanks. As a simpleton I'll try and remember that as the sensor closest the injectors control the injectors.

I would asume the ignitor is the same - that he left it on the car body. But the connection could be loose. And they rarely fail actually. I always forget if it's the crank or cam that does the spark(the other does the fuel). But something isn't making sense at all. Which usually means check the simple stuff. I'll be curious what the solution(s) ends up being.