davebugs

I wouldn't on a 2.5. It's just easier to pull the engine. Reseal it up (including the baffle plate). I think you do a better job with the engine on a stand. When it comes to cleaning the surfaces, the bizarre torgueing sequence, etc. Just much easier to work on, and I think it makes a better job of it. I don't try to impress anyone. I like to do things one time and correctly. My opinion is those odds are improved with the engine out of the car. Has to much less frustrating. I think you'd add more time to the job trying to leave it in the car rather than just pulling it. Dave

I may have a chance to get what the title says. I've never looked at, purchased, or worked on anything that new except routine maintenance (oil, tranny, spark plugs, brakes) on the GF's 2006 Impreza. Do these HG's leak like the 2000 2.5 SOHC's? Is it the same engine or was the HG issue better by then? They are probably gonna trade it tomorrow and I may be able to get it for under 7k. I haven't seen the car and I may have to take other folks word for it's condition. I'm wondering if thats a fair price - they say it's in average shape. What could hurt me. I'm thinking the traditional HG's, and torque bind. Probably overdue for a timing belt. Thoughts? Guidance? Or pass on it? Thanks, Dave

When parting cars the cats seem to be the same on the two cars you were speaking of. As pointed out selling or installing used cats is illegal. (the Gov't is your friend). Can't figure out what the big deal is. If the car passes emissions test that's all that SHOULD matter. My guess is that the manufacturers had a hand in making used ones illegal. But I really don't know. The used cats that I've sold have been for scrap - not reuse - and none recently. Now that platinum and paladium is down I'm just hanging onto the few that I have hoping that the price goes up.

Sounds like the classic SLOW 4way blinking. Never quite understood is since the car will start and drive. That cars101 link should tell you how to reprogram/reset the security system. First WIND WINDOW DOWN - yes I've locked myself out a few times doing this. Part of this is that it cycles the locks. Second I'd get the car in the air - even ramps. They purposely bury that black button under the dash if it's like the late 90's Legacy's. You'll need a light at well.

I don't know where that excellent pic is either of the knock sensor wire. A lot of times you can cheat. The wire lays on the block and makes a 'cleaner' line where it was than the surrounding aluminum. IIR the torque spec is like 13lbs or something. Basically is just runs up under the throttle body where the connector is so I always thought it would be difficult to be too far off the approved path. I'm sure you can find the pic if you searched. Or perhaps a regular here remembers where it is and will be kind enough to post a link.

Perhaps you're one of the very lucky few and haven't had HG issues YET. There is a search button. Try it - you can search for threads that you've posted in if you forget what the name of your thread was. Good luck.

Anyone know about this now - since the OP? I'm parting one out. Thought I'd grab (and probably try and sell) the pass side airbag. Don't care about the dash. Already removed glove box and blower fan and possible the TCU? Whatever is by the doorpost beside the glove box with a large connector. Never needed to track down a TCU on a Subaru. Dave

GG, Never done that on a Suby. That auto tranny looks long and heavy. Car would be on a 4 post lift. Handling the 'pitching' could be an issue with that heavy tranny. I'd like to do one so that I would know for the future. But my time and sanity is worth something - little perhaps - but something.

Hey - I'm even thinking about a new/used TC. I'm a one man show. I do an engine swap every week or so. Trying to figure out how to bend the flexplate to get at those bolts. Gonna take some serious leverage. Good news is that I don't care about the engine and know I'll ruin the flexplate. On a cherry picker, engine stand, rolling around on the floor...Gonna be hard to hold stationary with the leverage it's gonna take.

It's a 97 OBW White 130k? Decent shape, new tires. I was gonna go 500-600. I usually pay 200 to 1k depending on the car's body mostly. It's a nice car. But a fella has to be able to make a little money on it and still have his sanity. I've had severe troubles in the past sometimes reseating TC's that have pulled out a little while removing the engine. Never developed the knack of seating them - just persistance. And those had one or two steps that needed seated. I may have to pass or part this one if I get it. I have lots of 2.2 flexplate's but I'll have to think about if I have any 2.5's. I may have one on a 99 2.5.

John, Sometimes I'm a little dense. I still don't see how moving it forward that I'd be able to get to the heads of the TC bolts. Haven't pulled any plugs. Debating what to offer for the car "as-is". If I can't get the engine removed I'll have to pass on the car.

You missed the main point. The engine is locked up. I can't turn it to undo the Torque converter bolts so that the engine will seperate from the TC in the traditional method.

Did some searching with no luck. Looking at a 97 OBW with the engine locked up - unable to turn to get at TC bolts. If I remove the radiator as always, take the harmonic balancer and other suff off the front of the engine. Will it pull forward enough that the TC shaft will come free of the tranny? Assuming that's the method then how screwed am I in getting the TC back in place? No worse than if it came out a few inches like it does sometimes or worse? Thanks, Dave

FYI my GF's 2006 Impreza has a weird tranny fluid spec. Seems to me the 2007's have another. Anyways after research and calls I ended up using Wolf's Head Universal Synthetic. I've used their products for years (through atleast 2 sales of the company). Anyways so far, so good. And her fluid was really, really nasty at 50k. Dave

If it hasn't had the HG's done with those miles you're on borrowed time. If HGs aren't the problem already you're certainly nudging them to be the problem. Most Suby's I do have 110 to 185k on them when the HG's go. Excellent burping instructions here. I have the best luck with the front of the car slightly raised especially on the side with the rad cap - think floorjack. ALWAYS fill through the top rad hose before topping off rad. I'd be getting 'emotionally prepared' for the HG job.

FYI the last 97 OBW I bought had a bad pump. Had fluid, etc. Didn't make any noise, just wasn't pumping. It's still here but I didn't dissect it to see what the problem was. Car has 185k.

I have posted here before that I usually 'rent' the front end service kit from Advance (Not the balljoint kit). There is a tie rod puller (or something - small - 2 permanent fingers) that I use for the lower balljoint if necessary (it doesn't come off with nut off, beating LCA with a sledge a few times. Sometimes you gotta grind just a little to be able to get it onto the LCA at the seam. Dave

I have the tool for the harmonic balancer. But I'd like to identify this hole for possible use. I don't recall seeing it. Guess I'll have to look over some parts engines today. I suppose the same on 2.5's as 2.2's?

GF is digging the Bosch Icons I put on her 2006 Impreza last summer. I used to ru nnothing but Anco winters - but they turned to crap years ago. I think there are only a few manufacturers of wipers left. Just different brand names - I figured that is what happened to the previousely trusty Anco's. Icons were a bit pricey - like almost 20 bucks each. Dave

That's exactly what I usually do on SOHC's. On the DOHC 2.5's I seem to have no real set pattern but try this approach first. The last one I did the idler before the crank was installed last. Whatever works.

I do a decent amount of VW 2.0's and they are pretty easy. But I haven't found a good way to stop the parts that need aligned from moving on the VW. You need to remove the RF wheel. I've needed several Saturn timing chains done and have always farmed that work out. I can tell you from scrapping those engines that it can't be a fun job. Start by removing RF top engine mount after supporting the engine. And an expensive kit with the chain, guides, tensioner, sprockets, etc. Another thing about the chains. They do last a very long time. But they are expensinve to replace parts and labor. A positive about the chains is that usually they make noise before breaking. Unlike a belt. Dave

Hope the link is working. It's too big to send without hacking it up. Dave

Try this link: http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery-power-equipment-ebooks/subaru/2000-subaru-legacy-service-manual-pdf.html

Someone shared a 2000 Legacy FSM with me. PM me an address and I'll see if it will send. The endwrench articles(s) are just as good or better as far as procedure. Dave

It's just a PITA - especially the DOHC's. I've never done a DOHC in the car infact. They usually have an additional problem (seperator plate leaking, HG, etc.) so I yank them and do everything. And no - based on what I see if the tensioner fails the engine is toast (assuming an interference engine). Don't know whay they design them so tight. But if you think about it the engineers do lots of stupid things since they have the correct tools and easy access when things are originally manufactured. It's easy to build things, more difficult to fix/maintain later. Some other cars aren't nearly as bad with the belt install and tightening. Dave