davebugs

I don't see a good compromise for this. I had a tool made to hold the harmonic balancer. It has about a 2' handle and I use a 2' breaker bar with the socket for the bolt. I get it as tight as I can - never heard of a bolt breaking. But have heard of and witnessed them coming loose and the damage done. Especially if you don't have a tool to remove the bolt if you're doing this in the car I find the hitting the starter trick to work well. I place part of an old TB under the handle of the breaker bar where it hits the body over by the battery. One of my snap-on breaker bars only hits by about 1/4" but that's enough. Takes 2 though - one to hit the key, one to watch. I haven't seen what I consider an acceptable workaround to having the right tool for this. The only 2 tools I've had made for working on Suby's are tools to hold the harmonic balancer/crank pulley on 2.2 and 2.5's. Putting that much leverage on the bolt with all the slop in the engine, clutch, tranny you're not gonna get it tight - in my opinion. You won't have enough 'throw'. Just my opinion. Dave

I always get a Suby WP gasket. I like the rubber covered metal one much better than the cardboard ones that come with aftermarket WP's. I'd pick one of them up - I think 3 bucks.

Hopefully someone who has run them will chime in. And I'm sure someone here can point to a tire size comparison site. But you realize what the 70/75 thing is? It's called the aspect ratio. It basically means that the sidewall is 70% the size of the tread - or in this case 75% the size of the tread. So it'll be less than 10% wider I'm sure someone out there works at a tire shop. But I'm often amazed at the folks that don't realize what this number actually means. If I'm incorrect someone please correct me(like I have to ask). Dave

Wow - old thread. Wonder if he ever got this done. And if it was a old Beetle or New Beetle? I'm having troubles picturing a 2.5 in an air-cooled Beetle in the traditional place. I had done the Corvair engine a few times years ago. Haven't messed with a New Beetle yet.

I'll send a PM

FYI timing belts from theimportexperts. I ordered a kit last week(friday). They stated that the timing belt (the generic one if you don't upgrage) had been Chinese and as of Feb 1st were not going to be Chinese. FWIW - I always get the Dayco belt locally anyways. But thought it was worth mentioning. Don't know if all PCI kits will make the same change or not. Dave

Yea but HG's piston slap(harmless) and rod knock (not so harmless) are about the only things to worry about. The second HG will be easier to do then the first. By the time you get to the third you'll be pretty good at it. Lately I've been doing them before they leak - less chance of warping the heads. I pull the engine, reseal it (including Hg's on 2.5's), complete TB kit, re-install. Good for another 100k.

I don't know if it will ever be cleared up. First internal leak, then external leak - wonder what's next - perhaps burning coolant/smoking? Anyway remember this simple math. Subaru's have twice as many head gaskets as any other 4 cylinder that I know of. So mathematically that would double their chance of HG issues. Dave

If you want a tool to hold the cam pulley while tightening I bought the Lisle tool and use it with some success. I really think it's defective in that I can't really stop the adjustment by tightening the 2 allen set screws. Would have been too easy if the tools I had made for 2.2 and 2.5 harmonic balancers would have worked. But I always have the cam sprockets installed before installing the TB. I had an updated tool made for the 2.5 harmonic balancer and will probably be having an updated design for the 2.2 made soon. I have a retired welder make them. Usually we just swap some work. But I can probably get them made for about 50 bucks plus shipping if I had to guess. If anyone may want one PM me and I'll send you a pic of my 2.5 tool and my prototype 2.2 tool. Or if anyone has a better source let me know. I may see about havng him make me a cam pulley tool as well. Dave

GG, If you need a tensioner let me know. I usually have several gently used ones around. I also usually keep a new one piece around, and a new bearing for what I call the 'pencil' style around. But I'd have to check. I should have a kit hitting here today but it'll be for the old 'pencil' style. BTW I have purchased the one piece tensioners from the same Ebay folks and it actually got here quicker - was shipped outta New York or something. You could probably have a new one shipped overnight and still save serious money versus the local parts place. Dave

GG, Not sure how you're doing it but I have them tight before installing the belt. I use 3 of those pliers/clamps - one on the crank (with a piece of old TB on the bottom so as to be easy on the splines), and one on each cam pulley. Line up the lines on the belt with the appropriate notches and install the clamps. This will stop the belt from jumping. You don't care if they move a little since the belt will stay matched up when things tighten up later. FYI on 2.2's particularly I usually add that bottom idler last to tighten up the belt. Then pull the pin on the tensioner. Sometimes on 2.5's it seems like a lot of times I put the one immediately before the crank on last. I'm hoping to develop a firm pattern but sometimes each of them seem to have their own personality. Dave

Year, model, Where are you at? If it's PA we're somewhat close and I'm parting out a 97 Legacy now.

GG, Thanks. Next one i'll try the 2.2 swap and see what happens rather than using up the 99 2.5 that I have. I like to keep 2.5's for the GT's if possible. Dave

Didn't realize we were talking about removal. A pic (a cheapie that's a favorite - the new Craftsman's the handle just slides off). Sometimes as has been stated here a thin bladed regular screwdriver. Basically gently tap it in then typically grab the handle and push the handle up which forces the bottom of the seal out. Usually enough to be able to get the pic in there easier or do the same screwdriver thing on the other side preferably with another screwdriver. I always put assembly lube on the inside and on the cam/crank shaft. Dave

Thanks for the reply's folks. I'm thinking swapping intakes at worst case. Like I did on a recent 99 Forester. I'm sorry but gg the phase 1 vs phase 2 stuff I don't recall when the cutoff is. If it's only the bolt pattern - I don't care. Like I said I have a complete running 99 DOHC 2.5. Wondering if it would work as is, or with intake swapped - and if I could swap the intake. I looked last night and the 98 Forester 2.5 DOHC looks like it has the same electrical connections at the engine/trans. Anyone ever put a 2.2 in a 98 Forester? I've got a complete car here - 97 Legacy 2.2 to use. I'm not positive I'll be getting this 98 Forester but they come up all the time because the replacement engines are so expensive. I did figure out what to do to work aroud the 99 Forester 2.5 SOHC one year problem. So now I'm less hesitant about buying them. GG - Pm me about your 96 2.5 and if you heard it run, etc. The 96 OBW I purchased last week should be delivered today - bad bearings. If the price is right your engine may work. I've always stayed away from the first year, 89 octane 2.5 engines in the past. But I partly bought this car because it's Blue - getting pretty tired of the standard green. One owner, serviced regularly, and the bearings still failed. Tom - no need for a 2.5 longblock yet. I have a few here. But it seems kinda a waste to install a longblock that I haven't heard run without doing the bearings. Kinda like installing a 2.5 without doing HG's. But depending on how things unwind I may be looking for a few 2.2's. I agree there could be a cottage industry in doing bearing jobs on these. Frankly it's a skill set I'd rather not develop (and it doesn't sound like I'm the only one). Haven't done bearings in years - and those were on Chevy 350's and my air cooled VW's. Frankly I don't even remember any particulars about doing them. The VW's have the horizontally opposed split case just like a Suby but it's technology from the 40's. I could start another thread but let me ask another question about another car. 97 OBW auto 185k has a constant whine in the rear at all speeds (not just above 40 mph or something). Pitch changes a little depending on slightly turning right or left. Car had an oversized tire on RR but I don't know how long. Now all tires match. Rear diff is full. On the road it sounds mostly like LR. On a lift at 30 mph with a stethascope still really can't tell which bearing or diff. Doesn't make much noise with no load. Just really brake drag noise since all brakes, ebrake shoes, rotors are new. BTW I poked around a little at subaruforester.org without success. This is still the place that seems to have the most knowledgeable and helpful folks. Dave

I put the seals in last. I use a PVC coupling and a hammer to install all the seals on Suby's. Just take the seals to the hardware store to get the correct size. Actually I use the same PVC coupling for crank and cam seals. If it's at a weird angle I'll put a block of wood over the coupling to make sure the pressure is getting applied squarely. Then I have a much larger one for rear main seals - only when absolutely necessary. Dave

No. HG's don't bother me - bearing noise. Not just rod knock - actual bearing noise. I just bought a 96 OBW with the same issue. Bought a 97 GT last year with the same issue. HG's are easy. Don't think I want to try a complete teardown and bearing replacement though. If someone wants to do them that is reasonably priced and somewhat local I can probably bring them 2 engines at a time to do with a couple week turnaround. As long as they do quality work it would be worth discussing. I've got 4 2.5's out of cars that this would cure (along with HG jobs and the heads will be off anyways) and another 3 in cars with the same issues. Dave

o.k. folks. Possibly need a long block for a 98 Forester 2.5 DOHC. The direct replacements are a bit rare and pricey. What are my options? I have a 99 2.5 DOHC from an OBW that I heard run but know no real history of. Sound like an intake swap and put it in? Like 99 2.5 DOHC's were any better. Seems to me that the Forester has 2 connectors at the engine/trans so a 2.2 swap won't work since they have 3 plugs. Thoughts/ experiences welcomed. Successful and non-successful. Dave

I have limited knowledge of the newer (since 2000) SOHC 2.5's What you are describing is classic 2.5 DOHC Hg issue, But the SOHC's seem to leak externally normally and thus don't have hths problem. Perhaps you'll get lucky with just a cap or something.

It'll work. You'll need the flywheel from 2.5. Maybe have to mess with charcoal canister lines - I forget. But if you do it's not bad. You won't have the PS line bracket as stated here - no biggie. You will need the Ypipe off the 2.2 Search around here. Very common swap. Legacy/Impreza doesn't seem to matter. For a while the JY's around here charged Less for Impreza's so that's what I used. Dave

Heck - I couldn't even find it under engine or ignition or electrical. I always use OEM as suggested here and they are usually around 100 bucks. If I don't have a used one laying around. Are folks having luch with aftermarket?

Gee - I thought for sure someone would ask miles? If it did this before the recent work was done? In other words is this a sudden problem? If the recent work TB, Idlers, etc included resealing the Oil pump (like maybe when doing a crank seal and it was apart anyways), Oring, etc.

I have a 97 Legacy that I'm dis-assembling if it has that part. Dave

I do them with a cold engine and have a good battery in the car and a fully charged powerful jumpbox. This makes sure that the car doesn't crank slower on the last cylinder than the first. Well - it's the best that I can do and by ear they don't seem to start to run down. I just forget what I usually get on 2.2's. I must say I've never had to do a compression test on a 2.5 and that could be downright unpleasant! Dave

Yep. And they have the little plastic base on them so no messing with bulb wires like on the RS bulbs. So I treat myself to dealer bulbs. No rubbers, no bulb wires. Sometimes it's just worth it to me to spend a few extra bucks - and this in one of those cases for me. Dave