davebugs

I think they just burn out. I don't know if that link has the suggestion to disconnect the cable at the floor rather than the back of the controls - but I highly recommend it. I had the Radio Shack bulbs in hand the first one of these that I did. I couldn't get the rubbers off the burnt bulbs - they seem to get burnt on there. All 3 bulbs at the dealer (I forget 1 big, 2 small - or 2 big, one small) are under 20 bucks. I gave the RS bulbs to another board member. Anymore I just get the dealer bulbs. I seem to do one of these per month. Dave

Search around here. Some links to excellent writeups. I just get the 3 Suby bulbs at the dealer rather than going the Radio Shack route. Dave

An update for future searchers. These Parking brake shoes, ebrake shoes seem to work on the 15" wheels on the Outback. FYI there is still a core charge on these - something you don't see much anymore. It would make sense that they would fit 14,15, and 16" since they are so close to the hub and they all seem to be the same diameter, same Ebrake cables, etc. USMB just saved me half the cost of the parts. I just sent in this years donation. Looks like I'm working on another one already. Thanks again EVOthis. Dave

And the few of these that I have bought with HG issues were smokers - all of them 2.2's. Not the 2.5 pressure builders.

Is your Legacy 15" wheels? On the NAPA site I can't seem to stipulate Outback. Those parking brake shoes (the only ones listed) are shown for the 2.2 which might be 14". Probably all the same but thought I'd ask. They all seem to be the same on regular Legacy, Outbacks, and GT's (14", 15", 16") but I've never actually tried to interchange them. When I've been doing rotors they have just looked the same. Dave

Thanks for the info. When I was looking yesterday the Napa's in the town I was in were closed. The NAPA in the town I'm in today has them in stock. FYI Advance, Autozone, and 3 regional/home town parts stores didn't have a listing. Like I said I was unable to check NAPA and don't have one close to home anymore. But I"m going to NAPA today!! Half price compared to the dealer. Thanks, Dave

Amazing how folks can have all kinds of information - but no mileage. Like that isn't everyone's first question. Dave

I've searched here for e-brake shoe, ebrake shoe, ebrake shoes, etc. I seem to need a set of these per year. The dealer has a kit that retails for 70 bucks. Seems like there has to be a better way. They are just tiny shoes. In the past I have needed them for friends vehicles and was able to JB weld the material to the backing, put 2 large hose clamps on it overnight. But I'll be selling this car. If I were ever gonna use used brake shoes this would be the time since the rotors are new. But I never save them when I part a car (although I expect to evaluate this in the future if I have reason to think they are newish). I even have a car on the trailer that might have these parts but this would be a pain to get the parts off - especially in this weather. Anyone have a decent source for these? I may go looking for one of the re-lining places that do some antiques. The media is thin but perhaps that's an option. I'll have to see what they may be able to do and price them. I could then have a set already done and on the shelf. Dave

There are some threads here about pressing in new bearings, about using a grease needle to squirt some grease in the bearing. Like I said - I thought the best compromise for myself was the Ebay kits. I asked around here at the USMB first and others recommended them. So I tried them. Actually I usually just keep one in stock plus an additional part. A complete set plus the idler for the 'other' tensioner type so that the shipping lag doesn't screw me up. Since I mostly do 95-99's. Dave

I've used probably a dozen from theimportexperts. I think the PCI kits are all the same. I just figure I'd try and deal with one vendor. I think the prices are all about the same. One comment is that they all seem to be left coasters. Shipping time can become an issue. GMB bearings in the kits I've gotten. The belt I obtain locally - I use Dayco. I believe they have generic, German, and now Continental (which is probably German), and Dayco options - you'll need to ask. I forget the 'other' German belt. Think it starts with an F and is printed in yellow. I've taken them off quite a few cars. Haven't had anyone come back yet. I always use Subaru Head Gaskets, cam seals, crank seals, water pump gaskets, etc. I just can't justify their prices on idlers, tensioners, water pumps, and timing belts. And I can't justify to myself leaving that old stuff on there. Seems like a decent compromise. Dave

If noone else chimes in about a TPS I have several on 97 2.2's, some on 2.5's. I'd imagine the ones off the 97 2.2's would be the same. I'm leaving now but could pull it tonight. PM me if interested. Dave

FWIW I don't recall the thread GG is referencing. I do recall one about CA emissions versus non CA emissions, the TB differences and supposed cam pulley teeth differences. I'd get them all to have on hand. Both cam and a crank, and the Oring set. I'd do them all - or wimp out on the Oring on the pass side rear until it leaks. Figure how long you think you'd like to keep the car. How much work the TB job is. It's not really that bad. I generally replace everything. But I'm usually selling the car and don't want to have any problems. It's nice to be able to tell the folks it's all new components and they should be good for 100k. If a component fails you're talking about a much larger job. Another question would be if you tear it apart and need parts can you let the car set until the parts arrive or will you have to overpay locally? Dave

I get theimportexperts kits all the time. Then I get the TB locally (Dayco) but the import guys have them at almost the same price. You may want to have Subaru crank/cam seals around incase you get in there and on eis leaking - or not the brown color.. I assume that's a 2.2 - is so perhaps O rings as well. I do the waterpump(local autoparts) with a Suby gasket. If you're planning on keeping the car the labor is basically the same. The parts get expensive but not near what a tow, and fixing/replacing an engine is if one of those relatively cheap idlers or WP fails. TB is the minimum. If you replace everything I'd say you're good for another 100k. Dave

Wouldn't there be an issue with the EGR (being a 95 5-speed)? I'm guessing that he could get a 2.2 engine already removed and delivered for 400-500 or so. He's not that far from me and that seems to be the going rate here. For that matter I have a whole 97 2.2 SW that I'd sell him for less than that with an EGR. But he's a distance away. Dave

Tracy, I sent you another email about 4:45. Dave

If the cat is smelly I doubt it will pass - but you'll know soon enough. If you Seafoam it take it somewhere else - it does smoke a lot. It seems to help the O2 sensors and cats. She may care less if it saves her several hundred dollars - she may get over it rather quickly. Perhaps someone is near you that can point you somewhere that works frequently on Suby's. Dave

PA is a large state. What's your issues with Seafoam through a vacuum line? Other then the white smoke? It's less than 10 bucks and easy to do. Some folks who need to pass emissions have had luck with a product called "Always pass" or "never fail" by either CRC or CRL (great memory). But that was to pass emissions and not actually clean things up enough to clear a CEL. And the miles are??? Dave

Do some searching around here. I'd try seafoam. Then the front O2 sensor. Then a Subaru cat. One of the first 2 has always cured it for me but lots of threads here abotu only Subaru cat's working. Where are you located? How many miles? Dave

No question I'd 2.2 it if the rest of the car is decent. If for some reason you are fond of the 2.5 I'll sell you the next running one I pull. Current candidate is a 97 OBW 2.5 auto that I'm working on now. A lot of us have the bad pulley if you need one. But I probably wouldn't mess with this engine with the high miles. Dave BTW now 95's w/EGR are basically 400 + - getting scarce. Almost down to buying whole cars to get the engine as I just did with a 97 2.2.

GG, I just got outta bed to type the same response. Still confusion on what he really needs. The TB doesn't come in contact with the harmonic balancer. Unless the real problem is the keyway, and the splined gizmo on the end of the crankshaft which hasn't been discussed. I did respond via email a few hours ago with no response yet. Still need a definition (or pic) as far as I'm concerned. I'm sure I have what he needs - just still not sure of what it is. After it's determined what is needed he may even be able to obtain it locally. Dave

FWIW I find the gearwrench swivel ratchet (1/4") - or the snap-on for twice the price with a 1/4 drive 12mm works for me. (see the tool thread). But sometimes the TC will still come out partly or entirely with the engine anyways. Dave

FYI look for someone close with a vag-com - laptop software and a licensed cable. Sooner or later you'll need the assistance. I think I paid like 250 for mine several years ago. Invaluable when working on any VW/Audi. Sure with there was a similar offering for Subaru. You'll need some things like a turbo, ECU, all expensive stuff. You may want to look for a TDI wreck. Good luck. Should be interesting. Keep us posted. Dave

I drive a 2001 TDI every day. Great engine (and expensive). Timing Belt/idlers is even more critical that a Subaru. The best site I've found for them is tdiclub.com. Looking forward to the build. Usually it's a Subaru into an old air-cooled VW it seems. Dave

I always swear I'm gonna make something to tell me when they are seated for future reference. They are sneaky. I haven't ruined one yet but that's mostly because I'm paranoid knowing how often this is posted here. Some excellent pics on a procedure somewhere here at USMB. Some black market lines on the tabs. Seems to me about 1/4" or less of the 'tabs' showing is what it is. But I haven't done an automatic in about a month. Dave

Take a break. Perhaps some food. Come back later. Usually works for me. I had one that was so tough I put 4 long bolts into the TC with 1/2 plastic pipe over them to make it easy to spin the TC, lift it up, wiggle it around, etc. Took 2 breaks and a friend stopping in to get that one done. Sometimes they are just moody. Dave