davebugs

That helps. I'd take/send them back. For confirmation go to the local auto parts (or dealer), ask to see some plug wires for your application, I'm betting they don't look like that. Dave

To confirm - you have an 'L' so were' talking 2.2 as mentioned already in the thread? I've seem male and female coil packs on 2.5's (some 99's come to mind). A lot of parts are interchangeable but not plug wires. Plugs are close but slightly different heat range. If they are the wrong sex you should be able to return them and get the correct sex. I believe that I have swapped matching coil pack/wires from one intake to another as a matching set on a 99 DOHC. Where one was originally a female coilpack and I swapped it to a male coil pack/wires. So another aproach may be to get a coil pack that matches the wires. Frankly if you're confused just take the vin to the dealer, pay the big bucks, get the correct parts(hopefully) and be done with it for another 100k. I have a 99 2.2 here now I can look at tomorrow but it really won't prove anything. BTW clean up the pics of the plug wires and simply state that the new ones are Blue (I'm guessing). Dave

You're probably fine. I've seen coil packs like that - and I think they may be original. Sometimes replacement wires are all straight not 2 with the 90 degree connector. Just saying what I've run across. Not necessarily what is factory. As others have stated here 2.2's don't seem to be nearly as sensitive to non OEM plug wires as 2.5's for some reason. When I do need wires typically I get OEM anyways. Never used NGK's but I'd think they were pretty good. Infact I may try them on a VW next week. Dave

Bump. The odometer was replaced and the owner has the paperwork but there is no sticker on the door post or anything. In Pennsylvania there is a mileage statement. They can sign where it says mileage is correct, or where mileage is incorrect (and makes it TMU - true mileage unknown). This car shows 103 but really has 133k. I'm hoping carfax shows the new odometer. Also minor body repairs. Would like to see what carfax says and don't want to possibly get anyone in trouble for running it. Dave

Please PM for vin. For a 99 Suabru. Thanks, Dave

Boot pliers or hose clamp pliers (I posted a pic of these on an old favorite tools thread here). Sometimes it seems the dielectric grease helps make a 'seal' more than being a lube for easy removal. But I still always use the stuff. And anti-seize on the plugs. Dave

Do some searching. I think a lot of us use those kits. Personally I always obtain a Dayco timing belt locally though. I do think they have other options for timing belts. I get the same parts from 'theimportexperts.com'. When I originally did the research I think the components and prices were the same of the three folks selling kits with the same components. I just stick with a vendor until given a reason to go elsewhere. Never used one of their WP's. I'm kinda partial to Subaru WP gaskets though. I buy new WP local and a Suby gasket. But do some searching. This is a VERY common question. Dave

I feed it through the line for the brake booster. Watch it - you can flood it out. Infact sometimes I do where it tells you to turn the car off for a bit. I pour it into an old light colored areosol can lid so that I can see the level of fluid. Actually there is probably a better(smaller) vacuum line to use but I used the brake line the first time and old habits.... BEWARE THE WHITE SMOKE!!!! Neighbors may think thehouse is on fire - I'm not exaggerating!! I'ts really impressive when you're doing this. And after the car has sat for a little bit and you take it for a drive. Haven't needed to do it in a while. But it's fixed the 'catalytic converter poor performance' or whatever several times for me. Dave

How many miles? That's a key piece of info.

Shadow PM'd me them. They are one big text blob. When I get a chance (hopefully this week) I'll try and figure out how to repost it. It looks like the individual posts will be lost but they are stamped within the document with user+date+time. If you feel like playing let me know and I can send them to you. Dave

Beautiful. Then I can see what it takes to get them 'moved' here. One about a spedometer connection after a tranny rebuild. One about SOHC in place of a DOHC in a 99 Forester? about compatability, need to swap intakes, etc. Actually I think he had 2 threads going. I don't recall who originated either of them but they were both(or all 3) active today. Thanks, Dave

Wanted to save two threads from the playground but it seems I'm having some spam/trojan issues. After running some anti-spyware programs I logged in to try and save them. It looks like it's too late. But it's great that the REAL site is back up. Thanks to all who have had a hand these last several months recovering from the hackings, servers, etc. Dave

I'd call the guys from Ebay - they are on the left coast so they are 3 hours behind I believe. I'd imagine that they could ship overnight for significantly less that the money you'd save. I don't believe that's an interference engine. For 100 bucks difference I could probably wait a day - but that's me. You can still tear it apart. If they can't ship to be there tues morning you can still go spend big bucks at NAPA. Just a thought. Note that the kit doesn't include the actual tensioner but does include it's bearing. Dave

I get their idlers (and sometimes tensioners) frequently. Never a WP or TB though. My local independent autoparts has Dayco belts at the same price and new metal WP's for less than 50 bucks so I get them local and I like the OEM WP gasket. I have had a few minor problems but all were solved well. Mostly SLOWER shipping than expected, one time the wrong valve cover gasket set. If you get the parts ahead you should be fine. I often order the parts when I get the car. By the time I get it into the garage, engine swapped or HG job, rad flushed, etc. I expect the parts to be here and sometimes they aren't. Even though they should be based on their shipping times. It's cost me a few days on a few cars. That said no problems with the quality, price is excellent, just add a few days to leadtime to be safe. Other folks sell kits with the same GMB bearings, etc. I've stuck with these guys and they have treated me fair. I've probably purchased a dozen kits from them for 95-99 2.2's and 2.5's. Originally I posted here just as you have to get opinions. It seemed that other folks had satisfactory experiences using them. Dave

I don't think you're talking about idler pulleys then. Perhaps accessory pulleys? Personally I don't know what you're asking about. But it could just be me. Dave

PM me. I'm about 35 miles out of Pittsburgh. I have 7 Suby's right now in various states of repair. Nothing newer than a 99. Mostly Legacy's, sedans, Outbacks, GT sedan, an Impreza 1.8 SW, and a couple of Foresters. Prices probably from 1,500 to 5k. None currently advertised for sale. When ready typically they don't last long. Dave

I don't believe a 'reasonably' priced alternative was ever found. Too bad these aren't made aftermarket. Dave

Yea - I certainly don't want to start a 'water squirting' contest but I've used Fel-Pro for these without any issues so far. I use dealer for HG's water pump, cam & crank, oil pump Oring, cam Orings(2.2), and Fel-Pro for everything else. Sometimes I do use dealer for other gaskets if I'm going there anyways and price is about the same (exhaust, intake, etc.). The Fel-Pro kit was 27.00 last week that included the 2 VC gaskets, metal/rubber washers, and 4 spark plug Orings. Way less expensive than the dealer. This was for a 2000 2.5 SOHC and I happened to have the invoice laying here. The 2.5 DOHC's are about the same price - if not the same exact kit. Under 30 bucks - but at the dealer it's much more everytime I price it. My dealer doesn't seem to be aware of a 'kit'. Perhaps that's part of the pricing issue. Dave

Lots of chain auto parts will read ODB2 codes for free - but typically won't clear them. That said - I doubt this is an ODB2 code so it may have to go to the dealer, someone with a decent scanner, etc. Not just a 50 dollar ODB2 scanner. Dave

I'd probably get another one then. Now you know what to look for, take a long test drive, etc. Bummer.

It's your car - and I understand your thinking. But a stop leak product is gonna do more to stuff up your heater core and radiator than solve your problem. It's likely to add things to your 'issues' list and the original problem will still be there. If you like the car and think it's worth hanging on to just bite the bullet and get it done correctly the first time. Along with timing belt, spark plugs, reseal baffle plate, check cam/crank seals, idlers, perhaps water pump, etc. then you're probably good for the next 100k (except perhaps for the plugs). Dave

In my limited experience w/2000 and up atleast you can sometimes see evidence of the external HG leak. Look for leaking between cyl2&4 (drivers side) closer to the back of the engine on the bottom of the head. That's where the seepage seems to show up. Dave

I fill the filter, a couple times it keeps sucking it up. Unplug the coil pack (why do 4 wires and possibly have that spark jumping around when you can eliminate the spark?). Crank a few times for a few seconds (helps with fuel pressure as well). Plug in coil pack, it should fire. I just let them idle for several minutes before increasing the RPM's. Dave

That's actually a bit refreshing. I'd imagine that vendors who do good here will contribute. Those without decent quality, pricing, or support won't do well. Could be a good thing for everyone. Since the USMB had been down for a while I must have forgotten. No harm intended - was just an observation. Dave

Shouldn't they have a vendor icon or something like others do before they advertise their retail whares here? Just asking? Dave