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davebugs

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Everything posted by davebugs

  1. I second the injectors will work. IIR I've had problems with those old injectors. I forget of the grey ones or red ones are worse. But I definately used to have issues with them. And they aren't a whole lot of fun to replace - or I never developed the knack of doing it. I do recall that hose pliers are your friend! If you're in a hurry about the axles - call the local auto parts and see if they have the same part# - or look them up online. Dave
  2. BTW replace those clips holding the fork to the TO bearing while you're in there - dealer part. Also 5 of the last 6 manuals that I've pulled the engine on I've needed to replace the slave cylinder immediately or within the next week. Perhaps it's the age and mileage of the cars and they get overextended when the engine is out of the car. Just a heads up. Dave
  3. I forget - haven't done one is a few weeks. Perhaps look on the OTHER side of the flywheel for a mark? Seems to me it's usually paint dots that you pay attention to. Or with the pins in the flywheel that the pressure plate only fits one way. I just don't remember it being that difficult. Perhaps someone else will chime in. Dave
  4. I'm with Gary - poke around here. Also look on endwrench. I have torqueing procedures and other procedures hard copy from endwrench for the 97's but I don't know if I have the links. There was also a thread about a guy doing a HG & clutch job that links to his sight I believe on comcast that I think had some value. Dave
  5. What playing with fuel filler tubes I thought that I saw a body spacer on the OBW's. I know there is about another inch of clearance to get the hose clamp off the rubber hose on an OBW than a regular Legacy or GT. That would lead me to believe that there is more than struts - perhaps both a suspension and body lift. Surely someone else around here will comment on this. I don't currently have any OBW's to look at or take a pic of. Dave
  6. I have to ask - why swap both out? I'd just replace the engine, and do TB, WP, etc while the new engine is out of the car. I believe John is correct. You'll need the different Y pipe from the donor or a 2.5 car. Dave
  7. I recently had a stubborn 2.2. Someone was helping me and filled the rad and not through the top hose. I'd gotten by that way with 2.2's before but not this one. Drained and refilled through top hose cured it. The 2.5's I always do throught the top hose figuring they can be tricky. Between filling through the top hose and elevating the front of the car they usually burp well for me. Glad it's sorted out. Dave
  8. I swear that I saw a 'fogging' product perhaps from sta-bil for storage like this. I've never used it though. Dave
  9. Seems that the sending units are much more of an issue than the pumps from the Suby's that I've seen. Dave
  10. I'm sure there is a procedure here for the TC bolts. Just remember to get all 4 started before tightening any of them. And stuff a rag in the hole incase you 'loose' one. One hand on the breaker bar on the crank bolt and the other on the ratchet on teh TC bolt is how I do it. Don't know what the real torque would be or how you'd ever be able to get a torque wrench in there to measure it anyways. I bought a snap-on 1/4" swivel head ratchet just for this use. That lower drivers 14mm nut isn't so bad with a swivel socket and some long extensions - but it's definately the toughest. I always anti-seize everything incase I ever have to remove it again. Dave
  11. A little assistance/direction please. I haven't decided on the replacement engine yet but it's looking like a 2000 SOHC 2.5 from an Impreza or Legacy. These can be sourced for around 700 rather than the 1,300 for the 'correct' 99 Forester 2.5 SOHC. I figure I'll be atleast loosening the intake anyways to do the HG's. May as well get a less expensive engine. I went looking for SOHC head gasket instructions (like the excellent endwrench DOHC instructions and threads here) and have basically come up empty handed. Both here and endwrench, a little at subaruforester.org. Anyone firmiliar with a nice, complete, suggested procedure. Whatever the 2.5 SOHC donor it will get new HG's TB, WP, etc. I can't even tell if they have the oil pump screw issues. My first foray into 2.5 SOHC so I'd like to get some procedures. Thanks, Dave
  12. Clear or colored nail polish works well and longer than you'd expect. Hit the dollar store. Last time I needed grey for an interior screw for a Saturn I had to buy a black and a white. Dave
  13. I recall 'some' resistance since the cam seals are new but nothing major. But I've only done 3 or 4 2.5's. Just to be clear - you're having trouble with all 4 cams (both heads) or 2 cams(one head) and all the caps for the cam(s) in question. It's not that the ones under the valve cover are o.k. and only the front cap is the problem. I'll be running out and probably unavailable for a while. My GF's daughter's house burnt down on monday. We're still cleaning up and getting the temporary place in shape. My current duty is to install a few of those free standing clothes line things. After much laundering some smell is still in some clothes and blankets. I think they will break these things and won't even let the cement set up. But you know how it is. Sometimes it's best to just let them screw up. Dave
  14. Is it only the front ones that won't 'seat' or is is all of them for each cam including the ones under the valve cover? I don't recall having any issues. Unless on those front ones somehow you forgot to remove the old RTV in the corners. Dave
  15. You need to be looking for a local trusted mechanic no matter what choice you make. Many more options with an independent and better pricing typically. I would start with that search. Many here have done this swap (myself included) and there are lots of excellent folks to advise you here. Dave
  16. That was one of the more informative threads that I had found before starting a new thread. You ruled out the 95 2.2. My favorite swap. I actually started looking for engines that ferret recommended on that thread and then thought I'd start a new thread incase there was any new information out there about successful swaps. Not theoretical swaps. What exact engine did you end up installing(size, year, model) and how smooth was the swap? Thanks, Dave
  17. Welcome newbie! Do some searching here. I'm thinking he's full of it. Then again several folks here have done it and I'll bet he hasn't. Just my two cents. Dave
  18. Easiest - no listings on car-part for a 99 Forester (SOHC 2.5) in the tri-state area. Best - sturdiest solution since someone else will be owning this vehicle Cost effective - within reason additional labor time. I'm used to doing the engine R&R and swaps. HG's, TB, idlers, WP, crank, cam, and O ring seals. Oil pump O ring & screws, etc. Am I likely to get more involved than an intake swap to solve wiring issues - not likely. First thought is the 95 2.2. But I can't identify all the issues. If they are like swapping a 95 2.2 into a 97-99 Legacy OBW 2.5 (DOHC)then that's o.k. I couldn't find definitive answers on a 99 2.2 as a retrofit. Comments/Experiences still welcomed. Thanks, Dave
  19. This will be my first Forester, first SOHC 2.5. I'm used to 94-99 mixes and matches of HG repair and 2.5 and 2.2, and 2.2 inplace of 2.5 swaps. I see a few threads here but don't see anything definitive on the best/easiest/most cost effective route. I'll have to buy whatever I'm putting in. Car is an auto and pretty sure EGR (it's not here right now but I do have the vin). When finished it will probably be sold so I'm looking for a sturdy solution. Don't want to sell something then folks have any issues. Thanks, Dave PS troubles posting - if this is a duplicate or triplicate would a moderator please clean this up? I'll be gone until tomorrow atleast.
  20. This will be my first Forester, first SOHC 2.5. I'm used to 94-99 mixes and matches of HG repair and 2.5 and 2.2, and 2.2 inplace of 2.5 swaps. I see a few threads here but don't see anything definitive on the best/easiest/most cost effective route. I'll have to buy whatever I'm putting in. Car is an auto and pretty sure EGR (it's not here right now but I do have the vin). When finished it will probably be sold so I'm looking for a sturdy solution. Don't want to sell something then folks have any issues. Thanks, Dave
  21. So was it buyclutch or grip force that seemed o.k.? I'm likely to spend the extra 20 and get the clutch from the link you provided. With theoretically all USA and JAPAN parts. Thanks, Dave
  22. There are some problems reported here from 'grip force' although I know a local guy who purchased one off them without incident. I was just asking if anyone had dealt with shozone/buyclutch specifically. 116 plus 20 shipping for a 98 GT clutch. A Valeo clutch which is what comes in the Rhino Pak clutch kits that I usually buy. Or any other suggestions on where to source a name brand clutch at a good price. Dave
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