davebugs

I use a K-D with a swivel built into it. Works well on all Subaru Engines and most other engines. Dave

Short drive tonight - no CEL. Thanks folks.

Any CEL though? I gotta get through emissions (no CEL). Yes it's the charcoal canister and I know they moved it to the rear someplace. I'm just wondering how to plumb the thing. Infact I think perhaps the different plumbing (no canister up front) perhaps ties into the 2 different styles of filler tubes that I have hanging on the wall. I'm off to buy another Suby. Another 98 OBW - this one with under 100k - a rarity for me. Thanks for the replies. Dave

I see issues with grip force/gripforce. Thinking of trying shozone/buyclutch.com that shows a Valeo as buy it now for 116 plus 20 shipping. Anyone dealt with these folks? Clutch will be for a 98 Legacy GT SW w/121k that needs HG's - might as well do the clutch kit and clips. Thanks, Dave

o.k. folks. A bit of a long story but someone else is doing an engine swap for me. It's a 97 Legacy GT manual - had very bad bearing noise. Going in is a 2.5 from a 98 OBW that needed the HG's fixed(that I 2.2'd). The fella swapping the engines says there are no hoses to go to the canister on the pass front up by the rad on the 'frame rail'. I have a parts 97 and 99 here and yep - they are different. Simplest solution? Hopefully a plumbing solution and not swapping intakes since the engine is in the car now. It looks like the bracket/3 lines(97) that come off the Pass side fuel rail may be able to be swapped. The engine is on the ground so it's a little tough to see all that would entail. I figure someone here has already run into this and hopefully has an elegant solution. Thanks, Dave

I'm wondering why the OEM rotors and calipers and then aftermarket ceramic pads myself. What made you decide to do the mix and match this way? Dave

FYI there appears to be a shortage of things from China due to the Olympics. A lot of factories shut down in advance of the Olympics so that the pollution would be improved. Some companies that I know of for 12 weeks. Rotors are the primary thing that folks are currently scrambling for. Just an FYI. Dave

Check out this link : http://www.skywaytools.com/motiveapplicationchart.htm Seems 1101 is the generic, 1107 is the Subaru specific. Note that you can buy the pressure unit with one adapter then add other adapters. Dave

Did you fill the upper rad hose with coolant or just the rad? I just had this issue recently with a 2.2 and 2.5's are worse. Took off the upper rad hose, filled through there, re-attached the hose, topped off rad. All was good. If the pump has only air in it it doesn't circulate fluid very well. You can do a search here for BURP - they will mostly be related to the 2.5's which are a bit problematic. Dave

Scary. I'm half waiting for my local municipality to start counting cars while they sit on their a** and send paperwork to hassle us folks with extra cars. First the emissions police. Now able to see your cars without leaving an office or having any complaints. I'm not viewing this as progress. But yea - way too much free time to be nebbing like that. Dave

Thanks. The 97 I'm not sure, but the 99 has a spin on filter and is the pricey JEBA trans. Dave

Funny I was debating about the Duty C and rear clutch pack. Car has 200k and tranny was shot when it arrived so they aren't known good parts. I was thinking of doing it just to do it. But I have other stuff backing up. Infact I'm about to give up and drill holes in a good fuel tank since I just pulled the pumps. A tranny guy I use can get me a new correct (probably not Subaru but the part# listed for the 97) for under 100 bucks. I just had this 99 on the lift parting it out. Thanks for the help folks. Dave

Bummer. Thanks. I'll put the pan back on and scrap the car.

Thanks. Not what I had found before but I found something that might work in one of those articles. Hard to tell since it's such a closeup pic. What I had found before was a pic after the pan was removed. It labeled all the solenoids around the edge, etc. Tomorrow I'll look at the car after reviewing the Endwrench pic again. The pan is already off. Appreciate the assistance. Dave

o.k. I forget if I found this info here or in the electronic copy of the FSM but I can't find it tonight and I need it. I have a 97 OBW with the P0740 & sometimes P0743 codes. Points to Solenoid B. I'm also parting out a 99 OBW and was gonna swipe solenoid B. But I can't find the pic that shows which one it is. I had found a nice black & white pic but I can't find it now. An easy to read diagram would also work. I'm not bright enought to read a real electrical diagram. All I have remaining to take off this car is the Duty B solenoid and the fuel sending units and it's outta here. Thanks for any assistance. Dave

I responded on your other thread looking for an ignitor. I'm dis-assembling a car right now. I know it ran. Never took it down the highway but I know it ran. Be about the same price. And you'd know a little more about it. Dave

o.k. I thought it was strut mounts. Only happens if you torque the car like pulling out a driveway or someone bouncing on the fender. Curious part about it is that it only happens when the car is in Drive. Not Park, not Reverse, Drive only. I actually can't tell for sure where it's coming from since the engine is running while I'm on ramps under the car. I used Silicone and MPL all over Aframe mounts, sway bar bushings, etc. Every pivot and rubber point. Same results. When bouncing the car from above it does sound like the noise is underneath and not the upper strut mount. Struts appear original, no leaks, or other evidence of being bad. Idea's before just throwing parts at it? Thanks, Dave

The NGK V-power BKR6E-11(by memory). They have green writing. I've tried the more expensive plugs by other manufacturers, and the lsee expensive NGK's (blue writing). I've witnessed some success with Autolites. I pay 1.80 for the NGK's and that's what I keep on the shelf now. Dave

I have a 98 Legacy L on the lift now. If I remember I can get the measurement off of it. I'm curious about the GT offset since I'll be installing some VW wheels on a GT today. The GT came without wheels so I have no idea what the offset on stock rims was. Dave

A clever trick that I have witnessed on purchased Suby's. Pop rivets. Don't drill for them or anything. Just jamb the 'tail' in the gap between the pipe and the shield. The head stops them from going further into the gap and thus falling out or rattling themselves. Dave

2.2's HG's aren't as wimpy as the 2.5's. I'd be tempted to just do the timing belt, idlers, WP, etc. and not do the HG's. Dave

Welcome. I suggest that you try the search feature for this one. There is even a bit of a current thread on a Knock sensor issue. Sometimes I strike out when searching but I'll bet you find a bunch of hits. You may also want to look at the repair manual here at USMB if you strike out on the thread searches. Dave

FYI I'm using mercon/Dexron III for the 3 or 4 drain and fills. First one is done. Gotta get the rear brake's done to take it for a drive before drain and fill #2. Dave

I'm chasing this condition on a 98 Legacy 2.2. Replaced one that looked really good with a used one from a 97 2.2 that is unknown but looked good. Neither had any cracks, corrosion, connector looked good. I hate to buy a new one with all the used ones that I have but it's looking like that may be a smart move. Dealer says VIN# is mandatory - I think he said there were 8 different ones. I think he said they start at 80 bucks. Any concensus here on whether this is a recommended dealer item like plug wires on a 2.5, WP gaskets, cam seals, etc? Thanks, Dave

Here's the link where I couldn't make another choice without a password on endwrench. http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/ixSearchNkOm.jsp?level=1&model_year=1998&vehicle_line=Legacy I never looked at the dipstick to see what spec the ATF was. I'll look at it next time. That would just make way too much sense. Dave