davebugs

re: Endwrench. I got to the site, went to owners manuals, found a list of PDF's but couldn't gett ot to any of them without a password. Believe it or not I called Advance and they told me Merc/Dex III. My local place is gonna raise prices tomorrow. I bought 2 cases for 18.95 a case. The first case will go through this 98 Legacy L SW. I jsut got back from picking it up. Thanks for the responses. Dave

I just tried endwrench but don't have a subscription so nogo. Dave

No external filter. I had checked the level and it looked good. Got just over 4 quarts out. I thought for sure I'd be able to find the specs here. I know the exotic stuff and universal synthetic will work. I was trying to see if the Dex/Merc III met specs or not. Dave

No owners manual. It's a Legacy L 2.2 so I doubt it has a spin on filter but I actually didn't look when I was under there pulling the plug. Also to further refine what regular ATF is - would that be Merc/Dex II or merc/Dex III? I'm off to look for an external filter. Dave

I did some searching and I certainly know that my universal synthetic will work. But I can get Dexron/Mercon III for like 10 bucks a case less. I have no owners manual. Dealer uses Mopar 4+ or something and didn't know what was really called for. Anyone have the answer. Or better yet a link to something with capacities, fluid specs, etc. I just pulled the plug for the first drain. Thanks, Dave

Parking brake shoes would be a good guess. And/or rust chunks in around them. Dave

Very nice and deceivingly solid Brat for this neck of the woods. I had never seen one in this old body style. I like it. Looking forward to seeing what it looks like when complete. Dave

Yes, definately check for looseness. After that I treat is largely as cosmetic. Often when I'm doing a TB job, etc I need to get a hair dryer and make the cover a bit soft to stop it from either rubbing or being extremely close. Can't make a big gap or it just hits an idler and will still smell like plastic. Hairdryer and screwdrivers/prybars and I try and leave them stuck behind the harmonic balancer while it cools down. Dave edit: for my typing ability!

Definately seems kinda weird. Seems to me the last head gaskets that I did on other than a Subaru have a similar procedure but in the last tightening sequence get torqued to specific values. Last 2.5 I did I had a friend with a fancy snap-on electronic torque wrench come over. It is amazing how close the final torque (done by fractions of a turn as per instructions) ended up being. I realize that's the idea but I was still amazed at how close they were. Dave

A lot of folks running late model VW's have been using them for years. The cars set low and have a cast aluminum oil pan - very bad combination. The wise folks buy a aluminum or steel skidplate. Due to design the skid plate has to come down for every oil change. Unless you install one of these valves or do it topside with a Pella (or similar). Dave

On the exhaust. The exhaust will need unbolted from the heads. But I leave that Y pipe connected to the rest of the exhaust. I only disconnect it at the engine(heads). When the engine is lifted a bit there will be more room to move it out of the way to put a support under the tranny. Depending on the year 2 0r 3 bolts on each head. Take your time with these - heat is best. Dave

Engines are easy. BTW I leave the entire exhaust intact. After the engine is lifted it is much easier to get some tranny support in there. Easier to redo the baffle plate. Easier to assess the flywheel. I put new clips in (dealer item) except when they are out of stock. A couple dollar item that could possibly cause another removal later. Dave

Both - typically 50/50 mix. Buy premix if you're lazy.

I just removed a set of those that atleast somewhat worked from a car that I scrapped. By that I mean there was a fuel level reading but the car was undriveable. If you do find a good repair I'd be interested in what you did - they are often wimpy. I just don't know how to tell on which side the problem is. I second the recommendation on a new rubber gasket. I'd also caution you that if you live in the rust belt it's easy to break off one of the many studs that the nuts go on. PB Blaster and patience. It doesn't look like much fun to replace a fuel tank. Dave

The tensioner 'reset' takes patience or I understand you kinda blow them out. I leave it in a vise and crank it a little every 10-15 minutes when I'm walking buy and it takes me an hour or two. Not simply putting it in a vise and cranking it compressed immediately. I'm pretty sure endwrench covers this well. Dave

Definatley try and have it driven until warm. In addition ot lubrication, etc the rotors and tires will appreciate it. If that can't happen puch it a few feet to help the rotors/tires. Lots of Stabil since the alcohol gas is crap. Dave

When you have the eng/trans lifted with whatever you're using support the tranny. Make sure the motor mount studs clear the crossmeember. Make sure you've removed the bolt from the pitch stopper/dog bone. They will come out with this bolt in bit won't go back in. I leave atlead tthe top bolts in until the tranny is supported. I didn't see where it's an auto or stick. If it's an auto double check that the ATF lines are dis-connected. It's been a while since I did an early 90's. Look around here and for endwrench links. Lots of good stuff. Dvae

Those 2 nuts are all there is.

Get an air drill and drill a hole on both sides of the tank - one side at a time. The pump(s) will never get it all out. Dave

I just check them quick to see if they are re-surfacable. Then off to the machine shop to be checked for cracks, surface machined, and steam cleaned. While it's apart might as well. It's not that much - depending on your shop 100-150 to have them both done. Why skimp at this point is my thought? It does require breaking down the heads though. Remember to mark everything well, or place in a marked container. When they come back from cleaning any marking you put on the heads may no longer be visible. I use one box per head, put the cams, camshaft keepers, bolts, valve buckets all that stuff in there labeled. Then I hope no-one accidentally kicks the box. An egg crate or two is excellent but I never seem to have any. An old personal trick is that I letter rather than number things. This started back in the day labeling computer wiring. If you number things folks tend to read too much into the number. If you letter things they just match up the letters and don't look for a deeper meaning. Works for me. Dave

I have heard folks comment about perhaps doing the plugs from the bottom but have never tried that. On some old Chevy's they used to make access holes through the fender well covered by a rubber flap. Apparently that's one idea the japanese haven't copied. Although I just changed the oil on a toyota trusk and the oil filter access was through the fender well like some of the old Chevy's. Best of luck. Patience definately required. Dave

I just wanted to do this on an auto Legacy before scrapping it. On the auto I'd think it would be tough. Not just due to size(lenght) but due to the weight of the tranny and it wanting to change the angle. On a stick I'd think you may have a chance at pulling both. I'm interested in what folks have to say about this myself. Dave

Yea - do some searching here. Removing the washer bottle and battery give MUCH better access on the drivers side. Sometimes I remove the airbox, sometimes I don't - depends on what else I'm doing. Sometimes the plug wires are stuck pretty good. Folks work on cars like they won't be the ones to work on them next time. A little dielectric grease and anti-sieze is the next guys friend. Them plug wires are expensive and sometimes get stuck in the recess them you're pretty well screwed. Actually, usually, I'm pulling the engine anyways to do HG's, seal the baffle plate, cam seals, Tb, and so on. Doing the plugs with the engine in the car if the person before you wasn't nice is a real pain. I think you should wait on a hotter day to do this work!! BTW did you make the first year VW show over here towards Pittsburgh on 22 this weekend? Dave

Sometimes my reading (and typing) skills are challanged. I missed that it was a 97. Dave

Whats it look like? Is that the thing by the pass strut tower?