davebugs

And which trans - sounds like it may not have an external filter. Probably a 2.5 - remove the windshield washer fluid tank and battery. A year wouldn't hurt to know as well as the engine size. Dave

On my antique cars I take the gas tanks to my local rediator shop. He 'red coats' them. Won't work on diesel. I've had several done with no issues other than the stuff gets in the sending unit bolt holes and you need to run a tap thru them. Haven't had one done in a few years but I usually paid 30-40 bucks. Probably about the price of a 'kit'. And has it done by someone who does it all the time and probably better than my one time every 2 years or so. I have used POR15 on floor pans, etc and it's impressive - so are the fumes. Never tried one of their gas tanks repair kits though and probably won't if I can get the tanks 'red coated'. Dave

Odds are that you either knocked some rust loose - especially in the rear even if you have rotors there is a 'lille bit of drum' for the parking brake. The other obvious guess would be that a dust shield is now touching the rotor. You may have accidentally bent one while doing the brakes. I've had both of these common problems. Dave

This brings up a question/observation. I have purchased 2 97-99 Subaru automatics 120-170k miles that had been tow dollied with no fuse and no battery. One had torque bind when I fixed the engine and one did not. My guess is that both were towed over 20 miles this way. Any comment on whether the battery being dis-connected is good enough? If might be good to know in general and might come in handy if the lady stranded could tell the tow truck driver to disconnect the battery. Most TT drivers aren't very well motivated to do more than absolutely necessary (in my personal experience). It would be easy to play dumb and say - "what fuse where?". It's much harder to say that you don't know where the battery is. Just a question and a thought. Dave Edit: for spelling

A new radiator cap is a sign they are chasing an overheating problem that is usually HG's. Also I'm amazed at how many folks are too lazy to remove and clean the overflow bottle. Make sure you look in it for residue. Some folks here have stated that there is a 'kit' to test if hydrocarbons are in the coolant. I don't know where to get it or what it costs but I'd think it may be more reliable and easier than getting to do a long drive. But yea, HG's, torque bind, and leaking baffle plates (annoying but not necessarily harmful) are the main issues. Dave

I finally bought the Lisle tool for the 2.2's. I'd be interested in the 2.5 cam sprocket tool or last I looked they were getting pretty darn pricey. If anyone here wanted to make some I'd probably be up for that. Same as harmonic balancer tools. My homemade one keeps getting bent up. If there is any interest I could investigate getting a knockoff of either tool made. I was just searching for these tools a few weeks ago. My local dealer pointer me to some websites for special Subaru tools. Some were superseeded, some it seemed were NLA, all were pretty pricey. I just looked and didn't save the links. All were a division of SPX. Dave

The GF's 96 Impreza had 240k on it when it was totalled. Normal maintenance on engine and trans. Nothing ever rebuilt.

You have a PM from last night - unless it didn't go through. I usually just replace the engine. I have a 97 2.5 w/109k that was running when removed. Had a wierd sound in the low end so I removed it. But the price would be right. If I were you I'd probably just get a 2.2 and put in it. Dave

I think aftermarket filler tubes are an unmet need. Don't know how bad the liability would be but the dealer price seems pretty steep and the only option. I have one excellent one here and I believe another one (that looks like it was replaced) on a car I'll probably part out this week. I looked for alternative sources and couldn't find any. I'm used to seeing - and replacing the one in the first 6 pics of the last poster. I think they are the same on atleast 95-97 Legacy's - sedans and OB wagons in my experience. Dave

Thanks. I figured it out, did a search to find my old post and it wasn't there 10 minutes after I posted it. There are 3 tabs that pull straight out. One by the ODB2, one to the left of the sterring column, and one on the right. Dave

o.k. I can't find the darn alarm button on this car like ones in the past. Figured I'd remove the knee panel to be able to see better. Removed the 2 screws, looks like perhaps the ODB2 connector will be an issue. Anyways the top is still stuck. Do I pull it out? Down? Is there more clips or screws? I don't want to ruin it. I did a search and found some comments about removing it but nothing specific. Thanks, Dave

FYI I'm doing an engine removal right now and can't get that nut off. I'm afraid my 14mm and wobble is gonna round it off. I just made a call to borrow a 3.8 impact 14mm swivel. Occasionally I have to do this. It's not just access - often this nut is tight. The stud on the lower pass side is actually pretty rusty. Not used to seeing that and I do a decent amount of these year cars. I'll wait until I drop the exhaust to work on it. I also broke off an exhaust stud. Too lazy to heat it, wirebrushed the stud, PB Blaster, etc. but it still broke. I figured I'll never use this 97 2.5 with 109k anyways. Has a noise in the bottom end on startup for a few seconds then it never totally goes away. Sounds like more than piston slap so it's getting a 2.2 Dave

I use a 3/8 wobble(about 6") often into another longer extension(about 8") and a standard(short) 14mm socket. I have the advantage of having the car in the air and this helps get leverage. It is the lower left bolt(nut actually) that's the problem. Like I said often I just break loose the lower right nut and then run it off from above. Dave

No problem. The ones that I get for Saturns in the past have been red. Perhaps Wix doesn't make one for your application. Like I said if it's an expensive tranny I would go with the dealer part. That's what I did on my VW with a very high dollar auto tranny. Dave

I have used the Advance brand on Saturns with no issues - they are typically a red filter. For Subaru I usually buy the Subaru or the wix. I personally consider Wix and Purolator to be good quality filters and Purolator doesn't make one for the trans for a Subaru. I think the Wix is about a quarter of the price of a Subaru - but it's been a while. Some here argue that it's a dealer only item. If I had one of the transmissions that cost 1,500 dollars used I may tend to go with the Subaru filter. If I had a 'normal' priced transmisison I may be more likely to go with the Wix. Just some thoughts. Dave

If nothing else try one of the mail order places and get Subaru wires sent to you. I'd do that before settling for aftermarket wires. Then again I haven't had much trouble with aftermarket wires on 2.2 but I have on 2.5's. Still while you're trying to solve a probelm I'd order some genuine Subaru wires and install them when they arrive. Dave

Lots of good folks to help you along - they helped me along and still do when I have an issue. A 14mm flex socket is handy for that lower drivers side bolt. Bungies to hold AC compressor and PS pump. The flexplate bolts are probably my least favorite part - don't forget to undo them. Dave

Screws on the oil pump cover - check/tighten. Search around here there are some good procedures and links. Here is a link that I found helpful: http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html There are also excellent end wrench articles and threads here. Dave

Baffle plate is NOT the rear seal. The rear seal is around the crankshaft. The baffle plate/oil seperator for lack of a better description looks like the state of Florida and is on the passenger side of the engine. You can't see either of these things until the engine is seperated from the trans. Some folks buy a new metal baffle plate. I usually clean the surfaces and run a bead of ultra-grey and reseal them. BTW depending on last maintenance a Timing Belt, Idler's, water pump? You'll be pulling the TB off anyways. Dave

Possible valve cover gaskets and rubber grommets. Assembly lube. Ultra grey. I usually just reseal the baffle plate. Exhaust gaskets. Spark plugs. I'm sure others will add to the list. Decent torque wrench is needed. Dave

I've bought and sold both. Yes Volvo seems to have used the same enines forever similar to Subaru. However very expensive and hard to obtain parts. Don't forget Volvo has been sold a few times in the last 10 years IIR. Ford bought them and recently sold them. Sounds like the future parts challange may be worse. You Don't want to replace a Volvo turbo either. I've had troubles reading the Volvo CEL's as well. Price some parts and labor on the Volvo and investigate the limited places that can do a good job of working on a Volvo. The Volvo places charge plenty but often seem lacking in actual ability. I'd stick with the Subaru. Dave

My GF's car got totalled going on 2 years ago. 96 Impreza sedan 2.2 auto. 240k on original engine and trans with nothing but normal maintenance. A testament to changing oil often - no matter where. Sometimes Pennzoil quick lube, sometimes wal-mart, sometimes the 'redneck garage' down the road as she calles it. For the last 60k-70k I maintained it. Car had hit 8 deer and been fixed each time. Then it was hit by an F150 (kid driving to high school changing CD's) and pushed her into a big cable TV service truck while they were setting at a stop light. The car still ran excellent. Don't know how many miles it would last. She wasn't really hurt - other than the airbag - bruises, coughing and hacking. Two things I was sure of. She thought it would run forever. And that someday when it did break it would have been my fault. She didn't even look at anything else and bought a 2006 Impreza that I now get to maintain. Probably 60k on it now. Dave

I have posted here before about my Kumho experience. I put some on my VW Golf to test them out. I think they were rated at 50k miles - I may get 30k. The car is a diesel and isn't abused. H-rated Kumho's 195 65 15. The reason I tried the cheap Kumho's is so that i'd know if they would be suitable for the GF's 2006 Impreza that goes 40-50k miles per year. My biggest disappointment is that every 5k rotation mine NEEDED rebalanced. I'd say on average 3 out of 4 tires were off 1/4 to 1/2 ounce. I can't balance tires at home so rotating becomes a whole new ballgame. I've never had this issue with tires before on this or any car. My car now has 152k on it. FYI I got about 60k out of the Continentals that came on my car. I realize that you're looking at a different model of Kumho. Currently I'm searching what to put on my car that are affordable and give decent handling and wear. I doubt Kumho's will be on my list. Dave

I gotta tell you that when I replace Saturn motors I tear them down for science sake and seperate the metals. I get about 100 bucks for the cast aluminum alone. Then I throw the crank and stuff in the next car that I take in. WIth scrap prices some yards charge 100+ for a core. I'd stock up if you have some space. I've been thinking of doing the same. Except I've never pulled one at a yard. Like I say I can usually get good ones delivered with a warranty for 300-350. So I haven't bothered pulling one myself. Also PaP's are relatively new around here and several of them are getting pretty pricey. I don't know how long it would take me to get one out at a JY. At home I have a lift. That lower left engine/trans bolt would have to be a lot of fun laying under the car at a JY. Dave

I believe the above poster is correct. I sold the car and my memory isn't that great. The canister I'd probably do without. I doubt there is the place to attach it to the inner fender/frame rail on the passenger side between the radiator and the engine. The other vacuum hose I plain forget myself. Perhaps mine didn't have it - I used a 95 2.2 auto. I forget what you used as a donor. Wish I could remember and I don't have any pics. Perhaps if you zoomed out on the first pic it would jog my memory. I'm betting that one of the folks more firmiliar will jump in and be able to assist you though. Like I said my only issues were minor issues with vacuum and breather lines and it appears that's the only issues that you're having. Dave