davebugs

Search here for "torque bind" there are many, many threads. Common problem. Try putting in the FWD fuse and see what happens. Dave

IIR it's got weird blue/green tint to it. Need to shake it up before use. I think the theory is that it halps fill in scratches and thus helps get back some compression thru actually fillin in the scratches rather than just running a thicker oil. Seafoam certainly has it's uses but they seem to be opposite of what Restore does. Dave

o.k. so this will end up a bit of an OT oil war thread. I have used restore in my dune buggy and it seemed to have helped for a few years. It did stop the oil burning in one cylinder. I'll be swapping motors this year. I use Lucas in all my antique VW's and my riding lawn mower. Those air cooled engines all run hot and leak oil. In addition to the extra protection that I believe Lucas gives me it actually stops the oil from leaking as much during the long periods that the cars aren't even run due to the change in viscosity especially when cold. I also put Lucas tranny in all the high mileage cars that I work on and in my tow vehicle (120k). Their PS fluid has had excellent results for my in all cars and particularly with Subaru's. Someone will certainly post the link to bobtheoilguy(or similar) talking about foaming, etc w/Lucas. Dave

I believe it's just a 12 point 14mm - atleast that's what I've used on a 2.5 and a 2.2. I find they break loose better by hand with a breaker bar and cheater (if necessary). Engine needs to be on a stand - can't just have it hanging. They creak and it sounds like they are gonna snap off. I have used an electric impact gun on scrap engines. For some reason for me the electric is better then either of my 1/2 air impacts at 155 PSI. I use it for crank and cam bolts as well. Just my 2 cents. Dave

car-part is best (and most convenient) in my area. I see that your prices are higher than here in the rustbelt. Perhaps someone closer to you will chime in. Perhaps there is a better way to search for parts in your area. I'd look thru the USMB for sale section. A used 2.2 with new TB, WP, etc is still gonna be way less expensive and dependable than a used 2.5 unless you spend the money to get the HG's etc done as well in my opinion. Dave

Other more experienced folks will chime in. A 95 auto 2.2 is the best choice all the way around. car-part.com You may need a few vacuum line splice thingeys (M-M) or some new line - like 1/8" but probably metric. Other than that the breather hoses from the heads to the airbox - I forget the exact combination. You'll need the flexplate off the 2.5. Dave

2.2 swap - definately. I was apprehensive at first. Everything bolts up (if you get a 95 2.2 auto that will have the EGR and dual port exhaust). Minor vacum line issues is all. I usually pay about 300-350 (depending on miles) to have one delivered with a warranty. Dave

I'll search for that info tomorrow. I'm a little lacking in the electrical department and I don't currently know where the A/C pressure sensing switch is or what to jumper when I've found it. Thanks for the suggestion. Dave

All it took to solve the issues was another engine from a different place. Which also meant new Cam seals, Orings, reseal baffle plate, move over TB and spark plugs, the ATF metal lines. This was after removing the bad engine after I had given up on moving the engine enough to try and get the torque necessary to get those head bolts off in the car. Turns out it was a good move. Otherwise perhaps I wouldn't have seen where the intake valves left gouges in the pistons. I might have just had the head done, re-installed it, and sent the car down the road with a potential future problem. So I had paid cash and now get to wait for a check from the first place. I must say the SECOND engine for this car is just about the quitest Suby engine I've ever heard. Amazingly quiet from the initial startup. One question. I know the air didn't work but I didn't want to play with it until I got the engine swap done. Is the fact that the AC doesn't work why the second fan won't come on. It certainly doesn't come on when I push the air button and it hasn't come on due to temp (yet). Dave

FYI I had one delived in the Pittsburgh area (97 2.2) for 275 - 6 month warranty (last engine was bad), And frequently get them delivered for 300with 90-100 day warranty delivered. Today I splurged and had to pay 350 for one with 99k since the folks that sent me the bad engine didn't have any more. I love doing a job twice. Valves on 1&3 were bent, Intake valves actually hit the pistons. Guess this is the good part of living in the rust belt. It suz to work on the cars with all the rust on the nuts/bolts but mechanicals are reasonably priced. Dave

Did you apply some dielectric grease like the last person probably didn't to make them easier to remove next time? Dave

I think those 96 OB's were 'supposed' to take premium fuel. A 2.2 is probably the most sensible thing to do. I'd say the posts so far about the value of the car and the cost of a replacement engine are good estimates. Dave

John, car-part is always where I start my search (and thus compatability search). From USMB I know there is a lot more interchangeability and substitutability(2.2 for a 2.5) than car-part shows. Just looking for better (lower cost) options for the JEBA. Thanks to all who are pondering this or may have done a swap for a JEBA. Dave

John, Thanks for the reply. The tranny's that I looked up for OB/SUS for 2000 are almost as expensive as the JEBA. Unless I get one for a 2001 L model then they are cheap - like 350. Perhaps ratio issues or TCU issues? I hate to spend 700-1k on an incorrect year tranny and potentally have issues installing it. Perhaps there is no good, clean, inexpensive way to handle bad JEBA's. It's a shame because I've passed on some nice cars and the GF's daughter doesn't have that kinda money. Anyone rebuild these reasonably - or would shopping alone be prohibitive? Dave

I did some searching and found the JEBA mentioned here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70457&highlight=JEBA I don't have access to either car right now. One is the GF's daughter's SUS, the other is an OB that I'm thinking of looking at to buy that's 1 1/2 hours away. For the 99 2.5's it seems(I'm asking for confirmation and help here) that the early 99's received the TZ10272DBA transmissions. Later year 99's received the TZ1A27JEBA transmissions. The price of these used varies by about 1k. In the above link describing transmission there is talk about how many bolts/pins where the engine and transmission meet. Neither car is within 50 miles of me and there aren't willing or reliable folks for me to talk through looking for engine bolts. Anyone have a suggestion on replacing the JEBA with something else? I know the SUS has the JEBA because I got the code last year when she first started having problems). The OB I'm assuming it's the expensive tranny since it's for sale. I've also passed on a few of these within the last year due to the price of the JEBA. TCU and/or rearend issues that may be cured with matching TCU and/or rearend? Any other wiring or sensor issues? Anyone done it? I seriousely doubt that this will be as easy as a 2.2 for a 2.5 swap but with 1k price difference I'm definately looking for options. Thanks, Dave

Yep. And the timing belt is correct. I'm out of town for a day or so and the JY asked what I wanted to fix the head. We'll see what happens - I only paid 275 for the engine. I'd rather not re-pull the engine and go through re-gasketing the next one. If they'll credit me 150 or so on my next purchase I'll probably just attempt to remove the head with the engine in the car and either have it fixed, or use the head off the engine that came out, or the head off another 97 2.2 that had HG issues and smoked. No matter what head it'll be checked/redone first and get new gaskets. I should know by the end of the week. Infact I hope to have the head sent out by then or this engine out. Dave

This was a 2.2 for a 2.2. I understand that if the TB was compromised that it certainly could create an issue. The cam pulley was bent but still on, timing belt was still tight. I actually forgot to look at the timing marks before I removed the belt to see if it had slipped. The cam sprocket was pushed back into the cam sensor, broke the TB cover. I tried to pay extra attention when doing the Oring and cam seal on that side (drivers side). The side with no compression is the other side (passenger side). Haven't heard back from the JY yet. I'll be tied up most of this week anyways. Thinking of just fixing the head rather than pulling the engine, waiting on another one, buying more seals, swapping TB and plugs, etc. Haven't found a procedure here so if I do the head in the car I may take some pics. Dave

With the engine being in a wrecked car even though the TB didn't fail the cam sprocket on the drivers side did fail(bent not broken), and the cam sensor, and the TB cover. Car theoretically had 88k on it when it wrecked. Seems kinda low mileage for HG issue on a 2.2. I'm thinking it had more to do with the wreck than HG. Also with NO compression I would think it would smoke, that I'd hear compression leaking, or something. When I had the engine hanging and did the cam and crank seals and Orings, baffle plate, I didn't notice anything particularly ugly when checking to see if it needed valve cover gaskets while it was out of the car. I double checked the timing markings and actually posted the pics in another thread of someone having a similar issue that didn't know if he had his lined up properly. Like I said - 'she was running when she crashed' - I doubt there was 0 compression at that time. Dave

I know these pics are available several places but I just took them while double checking my timing belt since I have no compression in the newly installed JY engine. Perhaps this will help. I always mark the markings with white nail polish - seems to dry quicker than paint and it only costs a buck. Dave

Timing looks o.k. with the possible exception of the one tooth on the drivers side that never ligns up for me. I have some pics but doubt there is sense in posting them. Tomorrow I get to call the JY that I bought the engine from that has a 6 mo warranty and see just how hosed I am. I've never had any trouble with other parts/engines that I've gotten from them. At this point I'm thinking it may be easier (for me) to fix the head in the car - something I've never done. Rather than pull this engine, wait on another to be delivered, it will probably need cam and crank seals, Orings, baffle plate sealed like the last one. Put this TB and plugs in and I'm ready to go. Guess I'll remove the cam sprocket, cam sensor, and TB cover since this motor came with those parts broken. Bummer - never had a bad Suby engine delivered before. Dave

Update - no conclusion for sure yet. #1 0 compression, clean plug #2 150 compression carboned plug #3 0 compression, clean plug #4 160 compression, carboned plug. FYI the plugs were brand new and the car has idled a few minutes total. Pulled the TB cover off both sides. Belt is either exact or off one tooth - they never seem to line up exactly on the drivers side for me. Perhaps it's because I use Dayco belts and one time used a generic chinese belt from importexperts. I'm going back up to pull the rad, take off the harmonic balancer and check the crank marks. I expect that mark to be fine. I suspect that I'll be removing this engine - joy. Nothing like doing a job twice. And loosing money on parts - cam seals, both crank seals, Orings. Dave Edit: Not that it matters now but while warming the car up to do the compression check I tried unplugging the injectors one at a time and they all had some effect on the engine running. This compression issue must be why all plug wires and injectors appeared to have some effect and why I couldn't figure out one cylinder that was having an issue to start looking at the injector, etc.

They look good. First of all someone would have to have screwed with them. I installed the whole engine so I never had the intake off. Secondly I did look at the wiring to see if swapping intakes may make sense and it look undisturbed before I started unplugging injectors. #2 injector's wire looked like it may have gotten 'pinched' a little at the end of the injector so I started with it. Third - as I unplugged each injector the Injector circuit low error followed the appropriate injector. But thanks for the thoughts

The cam sprocket and sensor came off the old engine which ran fine other than piston slap and had probably been overheated. The sprocket seemed identical. I looked at it because the last 97 that I had someone else do had and issue and had to change the cam sprockets due to the reason yoi're speculating. Now there are NO CEL's (since the P0106 seems to have healed itself). I'm wondering if the fact that I need to give it gas to get it to start is a hint or just a reflection that the other 3 cylinders need to carry the load. Can't believe such a miss and no codes - unless the car has to move first. Which reminds me to add tranny fluid since the torque converter wanted to come out with the engine and it lost a bit more than normal.

Car was hit. Sprocket cracked, TB cover broke, cam sensor kinda smashed. TB was still intact. It is a 98 I believe which is interference which is why I installed the new TB. I had a 97 Impreza before with HG issues and remembered they were interference. I guess the good news is that I can wait until it cools down and do a compression check. I don't have the battery back in and for the first time didn't pull the washer bottle since those screws look like they'll snap. It certainly sounds like the next step unless someone comes up with another idea of something I can try while it's warm. Dave

P0106 is gone. Never found anything - just reseated some stuff so it could possibly come back. My real issue is the miss. I'lve tested plug wires (the little thing you hold over them) and all have spark. I pulled them off one at a time when a helper was here and couldn't tell which one didn't make a difference. I just did the same thing with the injectors. The only CEL's I've had are the P0106 and each injector reading low when I had unplugged them. No CEL about the miss. The car is setting stationary - is this why no CEL with a miss? Dave