davebugs

Edit P0106 gone, miss still exists. This car had no CEL but had piston slap and had probably been overheated due to someone not plugging in the radiator fans. Either that or a legitimate HG issue which is what the PO was told. Car has 172k. I bought another 2.2 with 88k that was from a wrecked car. I had to replace the Drivers side cam sprocket and cam sensor, TB cover. I was doing the TB, seals, O-rings anyway. All seemed well. I took some stuff off the intake to be able to get the flexplate bolts in (genious design if you have the hands of a 6 year old). Connectors, hoses and such and tried to pay attention and button them up in the same order even - they were kinda layered. Started the car. Misses badly. Only code P0106 - MAP sensor. I doublechecked the vacuum lines and will go back up and check again. I did buy a splice thing for the line that goes from the fender well to the white plastic thing about the size of a quarter. I've spliced these lines before on 2.2's and a 2.2 swap with no issues. I'm always afraid that I'll break that little quarter sized thing since it's old and plastic and the JY always cuts the line coming from the fender. Before the CEL light came on I was pulling plug wires and they all have spark. It does sound like it's only one cylinder missing. Would it even run at all is 2 cylinders missed? I'll go recheck vacuum lines and connectors where I accessed the flexplate again. Hints and guesses welcomed. I'm guessing 2 different issues here? How best to check injectors (without NOID light) for an electrical amateur? New NGK plugs, Packard wires that look practically new - "and she was running when she crashed". Coil pack looks good, connections are clean. I do have all the stuff off the old engine to swap but I'd like to atleast have a good guess to start with. Gotta give it some throttle to start. Only issue that I see is that the throttle cable will need adjusted - it's too loose but I'm far from that. Much more major issues first. Dave

Just a thought. Just cause they were new rotors doesn't mean that they were any good to begin with. Or that now that they are 'worn in' problems can't start. I wouldn't be so quick to rule out rotors - or rotor issues because of the pads, brakes sticking (didn't lube slides, etc.). The clunking is a different issue I suspect. You're just trying to tie them both together since you noticed them both and they both are part of the front end. That's my theory. Dave

I haven't tried on a Suby but that fillerneck isn't exactly a straight shot. It's probably hard to siphon out of. Perhaps that golden fillertube is good for something. Perhaps someone will chime in. I have used my Pella to try and get gas out of a Volvo which has a similar fillerneck design and it didn't work at all. If it gets tough enough they will just resort to ice picks (or similar) to the tank itself. Dave

Here is a small thread that I posted after doing the GF's tranny. I was a bit surprised at how dirty the fluid was to start with and at all the more cleaner it got. Remember that it is a little cleaner than the cleanest sample. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87092 If you'd like I can search for clear jars and take some pics tomorrow. I may drain and fill her tranny the next few oil changes. I'd still like it to have a better color. Dave Edit: added the link

It's an interference motor so yes, bad news for you. Hopefully you've just bent some valves. I'm sure someone else will chime in. I figure pulling both heads, timing belt, etc. at the minimum. I'd just pull the engine to make it all easier to inspect and fix. I recently bought a car where an idler pulley failed and bent the valves. I just put a 2.2 in it. Dave

I think Skip has it. With the limited particulars provided.

GG - I refound this excellent link on torque converter seating http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=torque+converter I'm about in pic #2 - actually inbetween pic #2 and 3 I'd say. I see to try spinning it a bit (in my case counter clockwise first) and seeing if it seats a little more. The tranny seems to have clutch pack issues anyways but I was gonna perhaps try and fix that in the car rather than replacing the tranny. Didn't think I could pull the engine and tranny at the same time - too long and off center weight. Trannies are relatively cheap I've just never changed one on a Subaru. I would just rather not ruin this one. I'll try and get the TC in the last little bit tomorrow. I'll still be paying attention to this thread incase I damage the pump on this install or the inevitable next install. Dave

I'm curious to see any answers. Just pulled a 2.2 this morning and torque converter basically came with the engine. I pried it off the engine (in order to get the engine out of the car) and am trying to reseat it. I know there is an issue with the last 1/4 inch and dome photo's here somewhere showing that I think you should only see about 1/2 the width of the tabs that the flexplate bolts go into. I've got mine most of the way on but by looking at the starter bendix I could still use that last 1/4 inch. If I screw it up and can't get that last 1/4 inch I may be in the same boat as you. I had forgotten what a PITA automatics were. Dave

Hey - you're kinda close to me. Stand at drivers fender well (with hood open!). Look for throttle body. Look straight down on the block. There are pics and discussions on this board. I have a good used one from a 2.2 and a 2.5 but for the price new is probably the way to go. Dave

Thanks for the link. The pics didn't work for me. I have done the procedure on two 97 Legacy's and found some excellent procedures - including dis-connecting the cable at the floor rather the control unit as your link states. I didn't have much luck with the Radio Shack bulbs so now I use dealer bulbs. Getting the rubbers off doesn't seem to work for me. It appears they get melted on a bit. Still looking for an Impreza procedure. I've had a bit of a setback with my motor swap but after that is done (or if the new engine gets delayed past monday) I'll do the dash bulb thing and take some pics on the 97 Impreza. Dave

Thanks for the pointers. I may take pics when I do mine so that this can be written up. Dave

No offense taken. I can't believe that I can't find a writeup for the HVAC bulbs in an Impreza or for mutilating the bolt to remove a rear hub. I was looking on nosiac last night and no luck there either. Anyone enjoy writing these things up? I can take pics when I do both of these procedures. How to write it up and post it is something that I don't know how to do. I would think both would end up stickies. Dave

Anyone see a procedure for cutting that bolt? Like sawzall or torches? Any how-to's that I can't find? If not possibly I'll take some pics when I do mine probably next week. An impact doesn't seem to want to touch it. Convenient place for the parking brake cable too. Air impact, electric impact, seen lots of PB and Liquid wrench(I like it better for soaking PB seems to 'dry up'). Got nut loose and tried BFH on the not/bolt to try and knock it free. This is over a several day span. Dealer says often folks cut the bolt. Sounds like the dealer had the hub tamer toolset partly so they don't need to mess with this bolt. Dave

There may be a procedure for replacing these bulbs here or elsewhere that I just haven't found yet for an Impreza. If it has pics it should have what you're looking for. I haven't checked fuses or anything yet but knowing the issues with Legacy HVAC lights I'm expecting the same issues with the Impreza that doesn't light up. New engine is coming friday (probably) so I should have the Impreza back in the garage late tomorrow or friday to start engine removal and I can move up my dash disassembly to get some pics. I may write up the whole procedure if I still haven't found one. The Legacy writeup was excellent. Dave

In a few days I'll be digging in that area to replace the light bulbs. I haven't found a procedure yet (there is an excellent procedure for Legacy bulbs). I'll be working on a 97 Imprexa OBW. If no help by then I can take some pics for you. Dave

If it's catalytic performance code I've had tremendous luck with Subaru's with Seafoam through a vacuum hose. You can search here about seafoam. Main comment is it makes a HUGE cloud of white smoke. You probably don't want to do it in the neighborhood - someone may think something is on fire. I've done this with 3 Subaru's and put another 1k on each before selling them and the catalytic converted performance code didn't come back up. It's less than 10 bucks a can - I think I pay 5 or 6. Dave

That's a deal. I just ordered a used stub today for 65.00 from a place that I was already getting an engine from. My 10" bolt is siezed so I'll end up needing that hardware from the dealer. I'll end up with 100.00 in this job with used parts and was willing to make that compromise versus buying a hub tamer or paying the same labor for removal of the stub and then buying the bearing(and seals) and labor for the removal and installation of the new bearing. I'm working on a 97 Impreza OBW - the bearing parts alone are like 80 or so. It's not looking like a very fun job either. Dave

I'm having trouble getting a visual of what you're doing. I will say that they used to make a tool to remove door hinge pins for your house that I used to use a lot on the brake bolts until I lost it. Just a U on the end and it's bent at a nice angle so that you can hit it. One piece of stamped metal if I remember correctly. Perhaps 6 inches long. Kinda looks like a trim removal tool. The trim/plastic plug removal tool may work - and I can get a pic of that if you don't know what I'm talking about. Whatever works please post it here. I just had this problem with a VW last week and that's when I realized that I lost the door hinge tool. Turns out I just hadn't sworn at it enough! Dave

The good news is that the knock sensors that I've had that were bad were visibly cracked. The black 'casing'. I don't know how often they go bad and still look o.k. Dave

I have them checked for cracks, resurfaced - and they clean them. If I have the time I usually drop the radiator to have it flushed and pressure tested. Worth the 20 bucks for peace of mind if I'm waiting on parts or anything. Especially if there may have been 'additives' in the cars past. Dave

I'd like to find a site like that. If you do a search here for AC bulb replacement I believe that procedure will get you most of the way to where you need to be. Dave

If Subaru 360 doesn't have one I have a junk motor here. I've never had your problem but I didn't realize that it was a 'replaceable part' until this thread. Dave

Head Gaskets at the very least. Last one I did I had to run it 20 minutes at 55-60 mph to get it to spike. Blows the coolant out the reservoir bottle. Never had one consume oil at the same time. Perhaps an additional problem? I'm assuming that you weren't leaving a trail of white or blue smoke? Dave

No glass jars. Come to think of it I do have some peanut butter jars with screws in them. I tried putting spots on the paper but with the light coming in the garage door it's kinda hard to see them well. If there is any interest I'll swap conatiners and take more pics. Dave

I debated about the dealer tranny flush. Decided to save a little by doing the drain. fill, drain., fill, drain, fill. I ended up using Wolfs Head new Universal Synthetic ATF. First time 4 qts, second 3 qts, third (and final for now) 3.5 qts. This may be a case where it's worth paying the dealer or a shop. I would have expected the fluid to end up a little cleaner. Now remember it is cleaner than my final sample from the last fill. I may drain and fill when doing the next several oil changes. It doesn't end up being that cheap. I think a case of the ATF (misplaced the slip) was 30-35 bucks. Throw in the labor and really the cleanliness of the fluid after the procedure and a true flush at the dealer may be the way to go. I was shocked at how dirty the fluid was when I started. This car sits ideling (she warms it up in the winter), and travels 100 miles on 2 lane road with only a few stop lights every day - definately NOT city driving. No filter change, the crush washer is the same size as the oil plug. Just posted as a FYI. Dave